johny

Another thing is to closely look at the running surface of the seal (pulley?) as if theres the slightest groove leakage will be increased. If this is the case try to ensure the seal lip runs in a different place...

Looking at the kits on line seems the plastic pipe does just push on the brass fitting and then that seals with the fibre washer being compressed by the threaded nut. However the pipe definitely must push on right up to the limit of the shoulder of the fitting....

Hi, be aware theres two different sizes of seal and I think you'll need the smaller one. Ive always used rubber encapsulated ones and think these are easier to install in the metal cover plus ensure a better seal in it. If the chain is within the wear limit I would leave it, then in the future replace chain and sprockets together as these wear to suit each other. Sprocket tooth wear assessment is done visually and you can compare them with photos online of new ones. The tensioner however is a routine maintenance item and if yours is going to wear through before the planned overhaul replace it...

Martin, it might be helpful to test all the cars electrical components, one by one, to see if they operate with ignition on and off and if theres any anomalies. It could make it much easier to find where the problem is....

But the horn/hazard supply shouldnt go anywhere near the ignition switch should it?

That is strange as it should be the same supply for the horns as the hazard lights and the most likely possibility was that the purple feed wire was connected to the ignition powered fuse (should only have green outgoing connections) instead of the battery powered one. Now its more of a mystery😬

Like the diagram Doug. Minor thing is the interior lights connections - looking at the manual I think both the lights (roof and ignition key) are illuminated by all the switches (boot, dash and both door switches) so I think theres a little connection dot missing from the purple/white wires in the drawing....

Let us know what you find with the ignition only horn problem....

there certainly has to be some method of earthing the steering column for the horn to work and the connection from rack grease plug to chassis is the usual one...

Looking at the wiring diagram in the free to download workshop manual it should be a purple/yellow onto C1, 2x purple onto C2 and a purple/black onto W1. However I dont think this is going to solve the problem as one of the purple wires is the power supply to the relay and this should be permanently live and also supply the hazard lights via the other purple wire. The question is do these work as they should with with the ignition off?

Just to clarify, all springs have a rate and a linear one means than for each mm of compression the force exerted goes up by a regular set amount. For example a 1lb per mm spring if compressed 5mm will exert 5lb of force so the more the rad cap spring gets compressed during installation the greater the cooling system pressure needed to open it.....

I know it can be difficult to find if the problem is at front or back so I wonder if its worth getting the car on flat ground and getting each end at a time up on axle stands. Then see if the other end still has a height difference...

I take it the heights of the back arches are equal?

Thanks, so setting it up on the induction stroke and I assume thats just for one particular type of cam?

If not a new chain and sprockets you might find flipping the cam sprocket for a quarter tooth change might align the marks slightly better and get even more power😍

ooh tell us more?

no I take that back because you should have already set those tappet gaps so I think any difference in pushrod length has been compensated for😊

yes and I reckon the rocking point method of getting the cam in the right position needs the 1 and 2 pushrods to be exactly the same length as otherwise the cam will be moved from the correct position to compensate the difference....

Your right of course but if you want to set it up using its 'rocking point' and keep the alignment of the sprockets punch marks/lines you have to get the cam in the right position relative to its sprocket. The engine would still run perfectly with the cam installed 180º out to its sprocket but youd have a job finding the exact correct position for it (the sprocket can be bolted on in 4 different positions) and said punch marks/lines wouldnt then match....

Cam lobes 1 and 2 should look like this at crank TDC mark then all other cylinders will also be correct....

Wait a minute, the inlet valve opens just before TDC exhaust/induction but the one you want is TDC compression/power which means 180º more rotation of the cam...

Its just that to find the 'rocking point' of the cam (the point which corresponds to piston 1 compression TDC) its recommended to have the head on, tappets adjusted correctly and then turn the cam until valves 1 & 2 have equal tappet clearances....

Just thought, as its a another cam you'll need to check its end-float and of course it makes confirming the sprockets axial alignment even more important...

I think I can see the cam punch mark in the photo through the sprocket hole opposite the one where it should be. Might be an illusion and anyway if not sure you'll need to find the 'rocking point' of the cam for cylinder 1 as indicated in the manual if the marks are missing...

In your case its easy as youre reusing the sprockets but I think in the photo you may have the cam sprocket wrong by 180º. Theres a punch mark on the cam flange and this has to show in the hole next to the similar punch mark on the sprocket. Once youve got that sorted its just a case of installing the sprockets with chain so the other marks line up. Finally turn the crank in its normal rotation direction twice and confirm the sprocket marks have returned to correct alignment. If you havent removed the dizzy drive gear it will still be correctly set to the cam so the ignition timing wont have changed... Got to say though, how youre doing all this without first reading the manual is amazing😮