Stratton Jimmer

My GT6 has a Triumph Tune engine fitted with a Lucas 22D6 dizzy, Pertronics Igniter alongside a 6volt coil and runs very well.

Tongue firmly in cheek I will suggest using a John Bull printing set and some white Dulux. 😉

Me too. Nothing too fancy and less to go wrong. I won't be changing it anytime soon.

Stick with it as is - it looks fantastic!

A friend and I took a Mk2 GT6 gearbox out of its car from the inside with the car on the edge of the parade ground at RAF Uxbridge 1982. I don't remember it being overly difficult. The car belonged to a WRAF driver. She was very grateful!

Well, we had two Heralds, one GT6 Mk3 and two Spitfires (one was my sixfire). There were a total of ten people there and breakfast was excellent!

Thanks Colin, that is a good idea which I will pursue.

Hi, the normal November meet at the Foxham is being replaced with a Saturday morning meet up at the Lowden Garden Centre (meeting for breakfast) from 09:00 on Saturday 11th November. Post code is SN12 8EZ. In December we will be having our Christmas dinner at the Foxham on Tuesday 12th December. Pre-booking is essential so please contact the Foxham direct quoting Triumph Club Xmas Meal. Contact and menu details are to be found at: thefoxham.co.uk and their phone number is 01249 740665.

Definitely go for Mintex pads. Superior in every respect.

Thank you one and all, I will stick with my original set up. I did find it interesting that the cause for rust may be condensation on the inside of the roof panel. I don't fancy removing the head lining to look though.

Thanks Doug.

HI folks, It has been suggested to me that the roof edge finisher on the Mk3 GT6 is not necessary and that removing it can eliminate a water trap so preventing potential corrosion. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? The part number is 814628. Hopefully this image from Rimmer's will indicate it.

Definitely sounds like a blocked matrix. Bad luck!

Dead right Colin. The small Mountney is only good for developing muscles like Popeye!

Thanks chaps, I will do as you suggest and let you know the outcome.

Having refitted the carbs, the car ran well for a couple of weeks (circa 200 Miles) then the rear carb started playing up with the piston sticking in the up position... NOT GOOD! I have temporarily reverted to using the HS6 SUs and it is running well but having stripped the Strombergs yet again, I can't find what is causing the piston to stick. I'm open to suggestions.

The GT6 suffered a failed tyre which was 8 years old. The sidewall failed with no trace of a puncture wound to be found. It was a cheap Chinese "Mohawk" tyre.

My Mk3 GT6 has a 12" Mountney which is way too small. My Sixfire has a 14" Moto Lita which is much better. The GT6 will be getting a change of steering wheel shortly. (It's on my Xmas present list!)

The RAC has this to say: There’s a useful rule of thumb to bear in mind. Tyre experts Michelin recommend that, after five years or more on your vehicle tyres should be inspected at least once a year by a professional. Then, if they’re still on your car ten years after they were manufactured then they should be replaced anyway, as a precaution.

Jeepers! I only ever aim for 100bhp and count myself lucky if I get over 85.

Any chance of a photograph Aid?

There's obviously a high resistance joint somewhere in either the +ve feed or the earth return line. Disconnect the battery and resistance check each side. once you have determined if it is feed or return, find the joints in the line and recheck the resistance at each point until you locate the bad joint. Testing for voltage isn't a good way to fault find this type of snag as most meters have very high resistance themselves and consequently will mask the error. Somewhere in the dashed bits is a high resistance: BATT +ve ----- loom ------ Light Switch ----- loom ----- filament -----loom ----- EARTH -ve Voltage checking may give erroneous readings as you may have an effective circuit like this: 12 volts BATT +ve ----- Light Switch ----- FAULTY CONNECTOR (3 ohms?) ----- Filament (3 ohms) ------ EARTH -ve The 12 volts splits equally across the 3 ohm faulty connector and the 3 ohm filament so you only get 6 volts at the filament. Putting a meter in place of the filament you get: 12 volts BATT +ve ----- Light Switch ----- FAULTY CONNECTOR (3 ohms?) ----- Meter (20,000 ohms) ----- EARTH -ve 3 ohms of faulty connector is insignificant compared to the 20,000 ohms of the meter which will read nearly 12 volts.

Out just now in the GT6, there was an E type in a layby on the A361 just north of the Vickers Roundabout with its bonnet raised and an anxious looking 'driver' peering underneath. I would have stopped and offered assistance but there was already another car there and no space to stop. Poor man's E Type 1, E Type 0!

Here's some info from the Haynes SU Carb manual:

FE1 City GT Radial, 165/80R13 83T all round. Reasonably priced (£59 each) with good reviews and they compare well to many more expensive brands.