Stratton Jimmer

It's a bit trickier than that due to needing to have the boot lid at an angle as though it were open. Here's a pic with me holding the lid open and showing the hinged bracket.

I don't have a garage and work out on the driveway but under a canopy which is not strong enough to use as a "crane".

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for fitting a 1500 Spitfire boot lid while working solo? Trying to balance the lid in position while attempting to get a bolt through the hinged bracket and into its thread is nigh on impossible.

If they were earthing, your car wouldn't run at all. I can hold any one of my leads while the engine is running without getting even the faintest electrical tingle.

Just make sure that you don't have a brake pipe alongside this bracket which you end up wrapping the tow line round and damaging.

Interesting thread - engine gets hot and carbs malfunction (spitting back). Is there too much heat from the exhaust manifold adversely affecting the carbs? Where do the carbs get their cold air from? Cold air has to be essential in being both dense as required for effective combustion and cold for helping to cool the carbs. I had an exhaust leak on a Kawasaki 4 cylinder bike that directed hot gasses straight at the float chamber of number 4 carb. It caused the engine to run very rough. Took the exhaust apart, refitted it with some exhaust paste on the joints and the problem was cured.

My Sixfire is on 175/70 R13 and handles extremely well. My GT6 has 175/70 on the rear but 165/70 on the front. It too handles well although my plan is to make it 165s all round.

Yes they are good. I have them on my Mk3 GT6 and they work very well.

A starter motor when not turning over is effectively a short circuit - super copper conductors connected between +ve and -ve. Only when it starts to rotate does it develop a 'back emf' which is the resistance that prevents it from cooking. If the motor can't turn, it will cook! I would advocate removing the starter motor and making sure that it spins over OK when disconnected from the starter ring. That's a good starting point in your diagnosis. If it does, then your next step is to make sure that the engine turns over freely. A newly refurbished 'tight' engine shouldn't appear that way to a starter motor that is designed to turn it over. If you have any doubts about your starter motor. get it seen to by ROTATING ELECTRICS of Birmingham. These guys are brilliant and relatively cheap. https://rotating-electrics.co.uk/ High Torque starter motors are good but a functional standard motor should be just as effective at turning over your engine. How many people have bought a High Torque motor believing it will cure all of their starting blues only to discover that it hasn't made any difference as the fault lies elsewhere?

Welcome to the madhouse! I'm just down the road on the east side of Swindon. If you fancy showing your car, some of us in the North Wilts branch will be exhibiting at the Swindon And Cricklade Railway's event which is listed in the events forum. Be good to see you there as it's only thirty miles from Didcot..

The needle valves should stop any fuel flow regardless of if it is pumped or gravity fed like when you go down a steep hill. This smacks of Uncle Pete's favourite little black slivers of rubber. Whip the float chambers off and check for contamination. If there is any then change your rubber fuel lines for new e.g. the Gates Barricade brand sold by the club shop. My Sixfire suffered from fuel weeing out of the carbs until I changed the fuel lines and fitted a glass chamber fuel filter between pump and carbs.

Let's call that a 5mm! It actually varies between 5.06 and 5.18 depending where you measure it.

Whenever I have refilled my systems from empty I have always half filled the system then started the engine with the radiator cap off. I then add coolant slowly and steadily. The heater is always set to hot. I have seen the rad apparently full but then bubbles appear and the level drops. Top up and go again. Once the thermometer is showing around 70 degrees, I stop the engine, fit the radiator cap and run it again until it is at full temp (circa 90 degrees in my GT6). I then let it cool down, remove the cap and top up once more which rarely takes more than about 20cc. Touch wood but I have never had any overheating issues. Note that myGT6 has both its original belt driven fan and an electrical driven fan in front of the rad. The electric fan is manually switched and is rarely used. My Sixfire has only a Kenlowe thermostatically controlled fan and is also free of any overheating. Both cars are using Evans waterless coolant.

Free to enter and that gets your car(s) plus two people in for either one or both days. Some of us from North Wilts Branch will be exhibiting. Additional tickets are available for exhibitors at £5 per additional person. Swindon & Cricklade Railway CALLING ALL CLASSIC VEHICLE CLUBS/OWNERS! Showcase your pride and joy at our Family Festival this August! We're still taking applications for exhibitors! Use the link below to apply or visit our website for a printable form. https://form.jotform.com/screv.../exhibitor-application-form

I too like the yellow plates and have them on my Sixfire. The PO had fitted B&W which now adorn my bike garage door. The car started life as an R reg 1500 but was adapted to a six by Yorkshire Triumphs in the early 2000s.

My Mk3 has 165/70 front and 175/70 rear. The handling seems fine to me although my aim is to standardise on 165/70 all round. I run 25psi in every tyre.

I too could be tempted by that. Smashing looking car. Welcome to the forum and heed the advice to go for something driveable rather than something showable.

Danny B is quite correct, it is the Kenlowe thermostat adjuster.

There wasn't any problem with clearances but the two struts were too strong and were forcing the bonnet back against the scuttle. It is slightly unbalanced now but certainly no worse than my GT6 which has just its original support.

My Sixfire had two gas struts but I have since removed the offside one. Both were attached adjacent to the bonnet hinges as shown in this photograph.

I have CDD CV shafts on my Mk3 GT6. I purchased them directly from CDD. They have so far proven to be very good and were simple enough to fit. I took that opportunity to fit polyurethane bushes all round too.

A cracked (barely visible crack unless viewed with a magnifying glass) rotor arm gave me the same symptoms on my GT6.

Some good friends of mine work as volunteers on the Dean Forest Railway. They are a very friendly bunch all round and it is an excellent heritage line.

Quite right Josef, my old Mk1 - 1967 and my current Mk3 1971 were both negative earth.

I had the same problem with the front SU HS6 on my Sixfire. Initially, I padded out the pump with extra gasket adding about 3mm of spacing. Ultimately it was Pete Lewis's favourite "black slivers" of rubber that was causing the problem. Changing all of the fuel line rubber for Gates Barricade (available from the club shop and other sources) resolved the problem completely and the extra gasket is now removed. Since then, I have switched to a pair of Stromberg 150s and back to the SUs for comparison. The Strombergs are superior in every respect!