daverclasper

Not the case here, though inlet manifold could have leaks?, affecting individual cylinders?

HI. Have fitted new pipe and T piece. Not started car yet to check for leaks. One thing. I removed the bolt (mentioned previously) which holds the pump housing and petrol pipe P clip. The bolt was wet with coolent and the hole weeping slightly. I wasn't expecting this, is it a problem? Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Have ordered the parts. Hopefully should be ok. Maybe use my usual method of dipping the end of hose in boiled water to soften and vaseline

Thanks Colin. Intending to buy from Paddocks. So, Mines a Mk1 2Litre Vitesse, that has 1/4" pipe throughout (I understand the Mk2 has 5/16" from pump to carbs?). Going by their website, I can buy 1/4" pipe and also the T piece section that goes to the carbs, though this appears a generic part. if this is the 5/16" size, do you think I can get my existing 1/4" hose on with a bit of persuasion?

Hi. I am going down the copper route. Are the fittings into the pump a small olive/compression type joint please

Thanks Iain. I thought it would be, as has not been disturbed since I bought the car 10 years ago, so probably, well bonded together, if you get my drift

Thanks, useful info. The pipe area across the front of the engine, is held by a clip that is fastened by a bolt through, (I think ?) ,the water pump housing and into block. Do you think the seal of housing to block would be undisturbed and therefore ok if I removed this bolt and refitted it? Thanks

Hi. Vitesse is outside all year, so will be some damp conditions. There is some rusting/pitting of fuel line in the engine bay. Thinking that removing/treating rust to stop it getting worse, though would feel more confident if had an idea of roughly how thick the metal is?. For example, if say about 1mm, should be ok, 1.5 mm, even better. Thanks Dave

Thanks Johny. To be honest, I'm not worried about the orientation of the filter, or the return valves. The car only gets started from cold on average, about once a week (without choke, until pressure builds). My post was to give the Kevin the Mann part no

I bought 3 for a tenner inc postage off amazon about 3 years ago (maybe not a usual, cheaper price). Apparently?, made in Germany for a Fiat. PN was, W714/2

Thanks Colin. I assume?, it would show more movement with the car at rest and not in the air?

Thanks Guys. I was also wondering about the wishbone bushes and the ball joint at the top of the turret. Its not obvious to me how to detect movement? Do have a bit of a knock/rattle, that I'm trying to track down, that is maybe from the front of car. Not too worried, as I guess if it gets worse, it will be more identifiable.

Thanks Gully

Do you know who supplied it please gully. Same issue on mine (though Vitesse). Currently using a rubber washer and about a 5mm thick washer to reduce the depth. Maybe not sealing where it should, as have empty section/sections of overflow hose always. No problems with overheating, even when really hot ambient temp and traffic jams, so not the end of the world I guess? Thanks, Dave

Hi. I have 4 workshop manuals (inc the factory one). I can't find any useful info on how check for wear on bushes, ball joints, (inc steering rack ball joints within the rubber boot) etc (as would be checked by an MOT tester). I know how to check the trunnion bushes and vertical link/trunion thread wear, also the steering column to steering rack joint seems obvious to check. I just cant find info on where to lever/feel/listen etc on other areas, and if car is resting, or drooping when doing so?. Any links to detailed information, much appreciated. Thanks folks

Is the carburation not being happy, necessarily related to engine running too hot. My Vitesse doesn't overheat, though if idling for long periods in hot weather traffic jams, will start to run badly. I assumed it was under bonnet temp causing fuel vapouration?

Well done

Had this issue with gearbox shaft/bearing. I wonder if the machining isn't always accurate (tool, or operator) on the shafts?. I assume the bearing itself would not be out of spec, if not a cheap one? Also, thanks Johny and Colin, for back plate info

When fuel gets hot by under bonnet temperature, what is the effect on combustion. For example, I have read that the air bubbles make the mixture weak. Is this correct?, or other info about how this can cause the hot day traffic jam stumbling/difficult starting please

Is there such a thing. I thought it was either home or to a repair place.

Hi. Sorry for any excitement caused. Just replying as a way to reread this topic, as don't know how to save it. Oh well

Could be, though I fitted one 10 years ago and still ok

Yes. Had hunting, and tried various ideas off forum. Was my breather diaphragm

Could you give a bit more info on this please Colin, as the back plate is not at the diff end of shaft. Not done this job before, though interested, as not heard of this possible damage before? Ta, Davejob

My 2litre is the only one I've ever driven and had a 3,27 and overdrive when I bought it. Great for cruising and get 38mpg on Motorway runs at 65mph. I do wonder how much more nippy it would be with an original 3,89.