daverclasper

Thanks. Have got pads off one side. In the haynes it gives a max disc refacing of 0.5mm per side. I'm guessing the lips are at least that. Using micrometer the disc thickness is 11.3mm? Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete. Caliper/s are still on car, though pads difficult to get out. Only tried one and got it half way out, levering with screwdriver through pad, pin holes. Have a wear ridge on edge of disc that is snagging it I think. Will remove caliper by tapping it off disc to pull out pads (unless there's a tip to avoid this). Dave

Thanks for that. I'm changing the pads and would like to push pistons out with the pedal a bit more to clean up, without popping out of seal. Any idea, how much from front of caliper body bore , to top of piston, I can safely do this please. Thanks, dave

Hi. No connection to this sale at BIN £2750, thought may be good solid start at this price?. Dave

Thanks BW. That's interesting. Cheers, Dave

HI Seem to be conflicting views on this. If yes, then I have white or copper grease. Which is better?, please. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Thanks a lot for the input. It is quiet and car runs ok, so will let sleeping dogs lie. Was more concerned about it breaking and trashing valves, as have read Triumph engines can do this, though I have always thought with any chain it wasn't a particular issue. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Unknown history of engine in mine , though guessing standard. Don't know if has been rebuilt or had hard use. 120,000 on clock. In normal use is there much chance of it breaking/stretching and do valves interfere with pistons. Any help great, thanks. Dave

Some of my rocker pads are worn on Vitesse. I worked out using feeler, that 10 thou " related to about 60 degrees of adjustment turn on screw (another member calculated by the thread pitch, it should be 90 degrees/quarter of a turn, though this worked out too big a gap for me). So I closed up the gap finger tight and backed off 60 degrees (or 10 minutes of a clock face, say) turn of screw. Tappets quieter, though still some noise when accelerating until engine gets hot. Fairly quite at idle (could this be rocker/shaft wear, if more noisy on the go?), which is why I found it hard to use the feeler whilst engine running technique. Not sure if this way is ok really, though should work in theory?. Cheers, Dave

I thought the damper that can move, is only on the 6 cylinder engine.

Hi. I remember many years ago, when I used to take car into garage's if there were problems with poor running, a few of the guys would cover the exhaust with hand. Any idea what this old school practice is please, as curious if it's helpful?. Thanks, Dave

Very interesting thread Karl. Thanks Goodness!. It does make you wonder what is the state of "most?" classics that are driving about. Even the ones with new paint jobs (even more so?). The Herald/Vit are easier to check out than most as you can access a lot of the panels by removing rear seat/rear door cards etc, but not foolproof I guess?. I guess the chassis is the main strength in these cars, hopefully?. Cheers, Dave

I've found new condensers to shocking. If removed, apparently car will run, though will burn the points if left like that.

Do that sort of thing often. Usually hose pipe connections, but still swear.

If the 2 parts of the pulley are still bonded and not slipping, the rubber, though intact, could be hard with age and not damping enough?. Dave

Thanks. I just wanted be sure I had a good chance of not buying a couple of obvious lemons. Dave

Wow Pete. Sounds like, not a DIY job, or even not professional fool proof. Dave

Hi I have just bought a pair of secondhand driveshafts. They have not been dismantled/rebuilt. The hubs have no play and turn smoothly and will spin a bit on the shafts. One hub is slightly more free turning for about 1/2 to 2/3 rds of a revolution. could this be an issue does anyone know?. The possible condition of the shaft/hub bearing surface, is the important thing I guess?. I will not be able to strip them for a while, to inspect, as I don't have a puller as yet. I will have to strip them, as have spitfire Mk4 brake plates. I think everything else is the same for Vitesse?. Any advice, great please. Thanks, Dave

Just to add. My stub axle has worn a bit more at the bottom (though still very smooth), so gives a bit more play when rocking with hands at 12/6 o'clock. so if yours are like this, make sure there is still some play when rocking at 3/9 o'clock. Dave

From what I remember, the back end, was up on ramps

You beat me to it Aidan

I removed most of diff oil with a large plastic syringe (about a pound of ebay) and thin tube (helps to run the car to warm the oil a bit) Dave

Hi. Not sure that you need to clean the earth cable a such (apart from the connections if need be)?, maybe some maintenance spray to protect from the elements . Any larger obsticle will stop the cable feeding into the heat shrink. A crimp tool to reconnect the cable, or a good alternative way?. Hair dryer to shrink the heat shrink. Dave

Sorry to hear that about the crap shafts Roger. Got a couple of questions please. I understand, it's difficult to access a bearings condition while under spring tension on the car?. If so are there any particular noises/symptoms a bad one makes while driving?. As a bearing starts to breakup, does it damage the shaft surface very quickly?. Any help great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

I seem to remember TD Fitchets, manufacture body panels, formed from original parts. They may supply the usual suspects. also Chic Doig make make parts and they do Triumph resto work, so maybe ok Dave