daverclasper

I've found new condensers to shocking. If removed, apparently car will run, though will burn the points if left like that.

Do that sort of thing often. Usually hose pipe connections, but still swear.

If the 2 parts of the pulley are still bonded and not slipping, the rubber, though intact, could be hard with age and not damping enough?. Dave

Thanks. I just wanted be sure I had a good chance of not buying a couple of obvious lemons. Dave

Wow Pete. Sounds like, not a DIY job, or even not professional fool proof. Dave

Hi I have just bought a pair of secondhand driveshafts. They have not been dismantled/rebuilt. The hubs have no play and turn smoothly and will spin a bit on the shafts. One hub is slightly more free turning for about 1/2 to 2/3 rds of a revolution. could this be an issue does anyone know?. The possible condition of the shaft/hub bearing surface, is the important thing I guess?. I will not be able to strip them for a while, to inspect, as I don't have a puller as yet. I will have to strip them, as have spitfire Mk4 brake plates. I think everything else is the same for Vitesse?. Any advice, great please. Thanks, Dave

Just to add. My stub axle has worn a bit more at the bottom (though still very smooth), so gives a bit more play when rocking with hands at 12/6 o'clock. so if yours are like this, make sure there is still some play when rocking at 3/9 o'clock. Dave

From what I remember, the back end, was up on ramps

You beat me to it Aidan

I removed most of diff oil with a large plastic syringe (about a pound of ebay) and thin tube (helps to run the car to warm the oil a bit) Dave

Hi. Not sure that you need to clean the earth cable a such (apart from the connections if need be)?, maybe some maintenance spray to protect from the elements . Any larger obsticle will stop the cable feeding into the heat shrink. A crimp tool to reconnect the cable, or a good alternative way?. Hair dryer to shrink the heat shrink. Dave

Sorry to hear that about the crap shafts Roger. Got a couple of questions please. I understand, it's difficult to access a bearings condition while under spring tension on the car?. If so are there any particular noises/symptoms a bad one makes while driving?. As a bearing starts to breakup, does it damage the shaft surface very quickly?. Any help great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

I seem to remember TD Fitchets, manufacture body panels, formed from original parts. They may supply the usual suspects. also Chic Doig make make parts and they do Triumph resto work, so maybe ok Dave

I think, if your fuel systems pretty clean anyway, then one filter between tank and pump should get anything (mine does does not appear to get dirty, though I change it every few years, as plastic and may start disintergrating). This is a step up from from factory spec, which I think was normally adequate anyway. Never had problems with crap, getting into carbs myself with this set up, though car is in regular use, so prob helps to stop rust/crud building up in pipes etc. Extra filters could be making the pump work harder?. Dave

Thanks a lot for that info. Changing my pads soon on Vit. Dave

Thanks. Just realised this on wrong section. Yes, but, paint cracking, would then start rust on sound metal (which I guess happens sometimes). Could it be something else?. Wondering, as it's very hard to get rust out of seams, so can it be contained/banished (indefinitely/forever) or even a good few years?.

Hi. Been wondering this for a while. Rust is caused by oxygen and moisture I understand. then why, if not absolutely removed/neutralized, does it return through a thick coat of paint, which I assumed would prevent the two catalysts entering/reacting. Cheers, Dave

I guess they needed ridding and would rather someone made use.

Two sets advertised seperately. More scabby £24 a set, not bad £28, including postage, from spit graveyard. Dave

Have adjusted by above method, though to get 10 thou, it only required backing the adjusting screws 30 degree turns (rather than 45 degrees/ quarter turn)?. I confirmed this on a number of valves. Cheers, Dave

I think!, at the time it was points. Dave

Thanks. I emailed the guy to get a bit more info. Apparently they were off a Vit (non rotoflex), that was broken up in the mid 90's due to rot and kept in a dry workshop. They included all brake/wish bone stuff and U/V's and he said the hubs turned smoothly. all for £15. Wished I hadn't faffed about, as they had been sold. Cheers, Dave

One question of yours Paul. I had the imput to the coil onto the negative terminal, for months before I noticed it (didn't seem to make any difference to how the car ran. when I swapped it to positive, but I understand it can). Also I have read, if the ignition is on for too long, without the engine running, it can burn out coil ?. I'm pretty new to thoroughly diagnosing ignition/electric problems myself, so struggle sometimes. Also in books, there seems to be quite a few ways of skinning a cat. Good luck with it. Dave

Car and classic website has a lot of classics for sale. good luck with the hunt. Dave

Great. Thanks for that. Out of interest I will note how much of a turn it takes to close the gaps and see what my guessing is like. Dave