daverclasper

You beat me to it Aidan

I removed most of diff oil with a large plastic syringe (about a pound of ebay) and thin tube (helps to run the car to warm the oil a bit) Dave

Hi. Not sure that you need to clean the earth cable a such (apart from the connections if need be)?, maybe some maintenance spray to protect from the elements . Any larger obsticle will stop the cable feeding into the heat shrink. A crimp tool to reconnect the cable, or a good alternative way?. Hair dryer to shrink the heat shrink. Dave

Sorry to hear that about the crap shafts Roger. Got a couple of questions please. I understand, it's difficult to access a bearings condition while under spring tension on the car?. If so are there any particular noises/symptoms a bad one makes while driving?. As a bearing starts to breakup, does it damage the shaft surface very quickly?. Any help great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

I seem to remember TD Fitchets, manufacture body panels, formed from original parts. They may supply the usual suspects. also Chic Doig make make parts and they do Triumph resto work, so maybe ok Dave

I think, if your fuel systems pretty clean anyway, then one filter between tank and pump should get anything (mine does does not appear to get dirty, though I change it every few years, as plastic and may start disintergrating). This is a step up from from factory spec, which I think was normally adequate anyway. Never had problems with crap, getting into carbs myself with this set up, though car is in regular use, so prob helps to stop rust/crud building up in pipes etc. Extra filters could be making the pump work harder?. Dave

Thanks a lot for that info. Changing my pads soon on Vit. Dave

Thanks. Just realised this on wrong section. Yes, but, paint cracking, would then start rust on sound metal (which I guess happens sometimes). Could it be something else?. Wondering, as it's very hard to get rust out of seams, so can it be contained/banished (indefinitely/forever) or even a good few years?.

Hi. Been wondering this for a while. Rust is caused by oxygen and moisture I understand. then why, if not absolutely removed/neutralized, does it return through a thick coat of paint, which I assumed would prevent the two catalysts entering/reacting. Cheers, Dave

I guess they needed ridding and would rather someone made use.

Two sets advertised seperately. More scabby £24 a set, not bad £28, including postage, from spit graveyard. Dave

Have adjusted by above method, though to get 10 thou, it only required backing the adjusting screws 30 degree turns (rather than 45 degrees/ quarter turn)?. I confirmed this on a number of valves. Cheers, Dave

I think!, at the time it was points. Dave

Thanks. I emailed the guy to get a bit more info. Apparently they were off a Vit (non rotoflex), that was broken up in the mid 90's due to rot and kept in a dry workshop. They included all brake/wish bone stuff and U/V's and he said the hubs turned smoothly. all for £15. Wished I hadn't faffed about, as they had been sold. Cheers, Dave

One question of yours Paul. I had the imput to the coil onto the negative terminal, for months before I noticed it (didn't seem to make any difference to how the car ran. when I swapped it to positive, but I understand it can). Also I have read, if the ignition is on for too long, without the engine running, it can burn out coil ?. I'm pretty new to thoroughly diagnosing ignition/electric problems myself, so struggle sometimes. Also in books, there seems to be quite a few ways of skinning a cat. Good luck with it. Dave

Car and classic website has a lot of classics for sale. good luck with the hunt. Dave

Great. Thanks for that. Out of interest I will note how much of a turn it takes to close the gaps and see what my guessing is like. Dave

Thanks John. I thought I'd would go to the bottom of the class for that one Just one thing. Haynes book showing valve to rocker at 10 thou for Vitesse?. Cheers, Dave

Mines like Pete's and looking a google images it looks most common. Did wonder if at risk of stone damage myself. though been ok in 10,000 miles?. I suppose a black mesh would be less noticeable, to keep the look if that's what you want. Dave

Thanks a lot. Have just bought 18 second hand rockers for a fiver with a view to dressing some of the better ones (I seem to remember your not keen on that John!). Then hopefully I won't be persisting for ever. Will certainly bear the above devices in mind (I don't suppose counting amount of adjustment turns for 10 thou", then doing this from closed gap would work, guess not as folk would do it). Cheers, Dave

Hi. On a MG site it said that an engine had valve clearance specified at 15 tho" cold. A later specification was 13 tho" hot for the same engine. So I assume heat expansion of valve train at the rocker/valve is about 2 tho". I'm wondering if I can relate this to my Triumph. as I have rocker pad indents on some rockers and can't get a good reading with feelers. I have been setting a good rocker with feelers and relating the feel of this by hand to adjust the other rockers (someone on club Triumph recommended this technique). My main concern with this, is I could be setting them a bit tight and valves could burn (I guess secondery to that the valve would be opening a bit earlier/closing later. So, would the MG info imply that that as long as there at least a 2 tho+ gap, then the valves will be closing fully on an MG and therefore maybe something similar on a Triumph?. Or maybe I'm way off, with this theory?. Any help great please. Thanks Dave

Hi. A bloke locally has a pair for sale cheap, complete with hubs and wishbones. I'm tempted to buy them as spares. The main concern is the bearing surface of the shafts (if they have been stored in damp shed etc). Can an idea of condition be gained by just turning the hubs to see if they are smooth. (I haven't got the correct Puller). Any info great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Iv'e pondered isolated scratches in bores and thought it must only make a very small % of lost compression?. What is the the reality?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete. I did use the gutter sealant, though found it didn't bond to the glass after a bit (It was only £1.00 a tube, so maybe why?). Have used it within areas of paint etc and has been good for that. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Martin. Sounds like it could well work on mine. Dave