Chris A

It an us ??

Thanks Pete & Paul the extra detail in the photo helps (I think). I have put it on my 'to do' list when I can. Guess inner door handle, window winder and door card to come off so I can get a good look, but at least now I have an idea of what to look for. ?

ShaunW: I said we don't use that sort of language here, go and wash your mouth out - with whatever alcoholic beverage comes to hand. ?

Good afternoon to all. I've got a slight problem with the push button on the passenger door. As you can see in the photo it hangs out, it doesn't drop out it can be lined up and put in and does open the door. It is still attached to the internals. I want to fix it but looking at the parts diagram for the door mechanism can't figure out what part holds the button in place. I thought I would ask here before I start removing everything. So, any idea on what it is that has broken/come adrift or and 'alternative repair tips'. Thanks

W*$k, we don't use that sort of language on this forum surely? ?

Retiring can come as a shock as it happens suddenly, overnight. I have been (sort of) lucky. I stopped working 6 years ago but wasn't retired - the company I worked for went into liquidation - I took my UK private pension last year so became 1/3 retired. My UK state pension kicked in this year so I moved to 2/3 retired. Next year my French pensions start so I will be 100% retired. Retire in stages that way you can work up to it. As I tell friends still working - They get weekends off & paid holidays whereas me being retired is a 7 day a week 52 weeks a year thing This year I will be 'officially' old as I will get my invitation to the village old folks meal in November. ?

I took the car for it's first proper run after sorting the mixture problem, went to a local(ish) car show. I took the pretty route which was the old main road now replaced by a dual carriageway and therefore no traffic. Car ran great so decided to get a bit heavy with the rigt foot ?? Geting above 130 kph was possible but took a bit of time ?. Oh! I shouldn't have said that should I. ? There were a few Triumphs there - Mk4 Spitfire, TR3 (the French like these), Tr4A and a Triumph based special, I've no idea what it was based on as there was no info on the car nor owner close by.

Not going down this route.

Well Pete you were right it didn't blow up. Thanks to all on here I have sorted it. It was simply running far too rich. My first attempt at weakening the mixture actually made it worse as I misinterpreted the instructions in the manual, well they weren't very precise ( my excuse and I'm sticking to it). Pete: I followed your tip and left the mixture just on the edge of rich. Basically a blue flame with hints of yellow. It also helped, again thanks Pete, in having the correct tool for adjusting the mixture screw. I had been using a 10 centimes of a Euro coin. In my old collection of bits I do have a genuine old penny coin, this worked much better. Car has been taken out for a run to test it all OK. Beer well earned!

Pete: You saved my brain from blowing up: 'the jet adjuster is a normal thread , so which ever way you look at it screw it into the case to raise the jet and lean of unscrew it to lower the jet and make richer ' Clear and simple, just what I needed The hayes manual I have says'Turning the nut clockwise raises the jet and weakens the mixture' I had simply latched onto 'clockwise = weaker' and with the carb in place and working from above turned it clockwise which of course undoes the unit & hence makes the mixture richer. Obvious really but on a simple first read for an old git . . Had I read my Autobook version I would have seen 'Screw the adjusting screw up to weaken the mixture and down to enrich it'. Much clearer for the same old git to understand. The Buckley site says 'Turning the orifice adjusting screw, when looking on this clockwise decreases the mixture strength; anti-clockwise will enrich.' WHEN LOOKING ON THIS. Ah! that also helps. I was so brain dead last night I had to go and get a nut and bolt to see which way you turned it to do it up - Don't tell anyone, please, our secret? So in effect I may well have by error when trying to reset the mixture grossly over enrichened the mixture instead of slightly weakening it. I'll start from scratch with a basic resetting of the mixture, confirm the airfilter gasket is on correctly and not blocking the vent holes and see what that does. Hopefully I will be able to give it a go tomorrow. Thanks to everyone so far, in particular Pete for saving my brain. I'll report back after I've had another go - as long as I don't blow it up.

Pete: standard air box and paper filter. Now I know what those 'spare' holes are for. I'll double check nothing is blocking them. I've started to read the Buckley Triumph article on the carb and suddenly thought 'clockwise', ok - clockwise when you look down on the carb in place or if the carb was being held upside down with the adjusting nut upmost. I assumed clockwise is based on the carb still mounted to the inlet manifold.

Thanks Nick. More pointers to the carb needing a look at.

Did lawn this morning, so merit lunch as a reward

Hi Pete, yes it is the Stromberg standard item and filter. I'm a bit confused about your comments regarding the air filter. I did change it AFTER the problem started in case it wa  Thanks for the tips I'll not be able to try them out until maybe Friday. Have to go for lunch today at my local bistro then take SWMBO to collect some 'stuff'. Tomorrow is shopping for us in the morning then shopping & ordering for the club event in the afternoon. Hard life being retired!

Hi Pete, yes it is the Stromberg standard item and filter. I'm a bit confused about your comments regarding the air filter. I did change it AFTER the problem started in case it was blocked. It is the GF1015 type. Thanks for the tips I'll not be able to try them out until maybe Friday. Have to go for lunch today at my local bistro then take SWMBO to collect some 'stuff'. Tomorrow is shopping for us in the morning then shopping & ordering for the club event in the afternoon. Hard life being retired!

Progress report: I used my new colour tune and it confirmed the mixture is rich, however turning the mixture screw several complete turns didn't alter the flame colour at all, or at least not noticeably. The booket puts this down to wear on needle/jet. So, time for me to read up on the carb, I've never done anything to it other than top up the damper oil. If any of you have guidance I would be very grateful for it. Will a well placed whack with a hammer help? Or do I have to stick my fingers down its throat? Maybe, heaven help me, take it apart and do sometghing and/or replace needle/jet. I suppose the problem has been there for a while and gradually getting worse until it reached 'critical mass' proportions. Right, now where are my workshop manuals and my glasses....

I have just received a Colour tune, ordered it before this problem came up. I have tried weakening the mixture, before the colour tune arrived, but then had a real problem resetting tick over - had to turn the ajusting screw virtually fully in. Tomorrow I will again go through the motions and try the colour tune as well. Fingers crossed. I am also beginning to wonder if something in the carb has given up the ghost, not knowing carbs I need to dig into the manuals . . .

Hi Nonmember I like your reasoning. I'm not a tech nerd so can't either support nor contradict you, but my version of logic would say it sounds very plausible. However, Wouldn't repeated cranking just make it worse? When I have tried to restart the motor I haven't cranked it too much due to thinking all I would do is add more petrol to an already oversupplied engine. Your view would also confirm what I have started to think is that the rich mixture if left a while dissipates, evaporates, gets sucked back out, or whatever and the engine is 'clear' to start as usual. My first plan of attack is going to be along the lines of this rather than any electrical problem. Thanks for the contribution

After a day just thinking about it plus all the suggestions and help from here I am beginning to think that for some reason after stoping he car petrol and or valour is causing a very rich mixture hat evaporates after a while and then he car will restart and run ok. I will be going along this route tomorow I hope, I have some free time in between meetings about our club event coming up on the 23rd.

Why would the polarity suddenly change on its own? I haven't changed any of this part of the car for months and it has been running fine, several times per week, until Sunday. It doesn't stop itself it is always me who choses when to stop it after a run of 10 minutes or 45 minutes without a single missed beat. Failed/failing coil is to be checked tomorrow (I hope)

To be honest I doubt this is the cause as it is always under the same conditions that it fails to start, I would have thought a problem like this would occur at random.

" possibly that could be proven by jump starting from a running car." Interesting thought, I'll add it to my list of things to try when the car has been running and refuses to start. Worth a try as it is easy to do. Thanks

Thanks Doug: if it is intermittent it is always at the same moment in the cycle, which I thought would be unlikely. As the fault clears after a while I am more inclined to petrol delivery system to be honest.

Hi both, neither coil nor distributor felt hot, not even warm. Ignition is Accuspark electronic so no condenser. I am going to do a coil swap and check for spark as recommended above. Thanks guys

StuartO : As I have a spare that I know works I had thought of swapping them over just in case, as you say easy and quick to do. The coil isn't getting hot but I suppose an internal fault might not cause it heat up. Thanks