Chris A

Last year I replaced the voltage stabiliser on my 13/60 with an electronic one. I left the old unit in place and just wired in the new one and let it hang loose

I will be keeping my modern for a long time then.I don't think it has an ashtray. 🚬

Don't get me started on what can or can't be used anymore. . . I could go on long enough to cause the forum's computer to commit suicide! I will give just one example. Glysophate (Roundup) I can't use my 1/2 litre per year anymore but the farmer with the field that is next to my property can use as much as he likes... Grrr! Time for my tablets . . . . . . .

Plenty of tread on the tyres, so they're good at least 💀

Just because your'e an anorak doesn't mean the information isn't worth reading

I know what you mean. There are threads that start which don't have seem to have any interest for me, but like this one you don't know where they are going to end up - a bit like when I go for a drive in my Triumph 💨🔍

Noted

When I took delivery of my 13/60 in 2015 there were traces of mayo, I knew the car hadn't been properly run for a while, after cleaning it off and driving the car as it should there has never been a problem since. I vote for "give it a run" as well 💨

What I do with my 13/60 when I want 1st from stationary and cold is to put it into 2nd then into 1st, this seems to avoid any noises. For reverse, yes clutch in slight delay then engage reverse. Once the engine is warm and unless I'm moving off on a hill the car will pull away in 2nd, again avoids the non syncro 1st. There is also the good old double de-clutch method of changing between syncro and non syncro 1st & 2nd.

I was born and brought up in north Derbyshire so I am familiar with the Yorkshire "ethics" on spending money. We used to say that a Yorkshireman was just a Scot with all the generosity knocked out of him.

So does this make them Bipolar?

Pack a cool box with various cold drinks, non alcoholic, to keep you fresh. As for the car, I'm sure others will have advice.

Antiquera? there is a Paradore there and as Mrs Me loves staying in them, maybe I should suggest this year's holiday should be in spain again and include antiquera. I think she would smell a rat as I never propose a holiday. Nice looking example, what was parked just in front of it? There looks to be an interesting set of rear lights on a white car, another oldie?

Hi Roger, you get the prize for asking this question I expected someone to ask. Having read about the levels of "additives" in 95 that don't sit well with our beloved motors, that 95 causes higher running temperatures and that 98 has less of them( I believe) I thought I might go that route. I'm not looking ( well a bit maybe) for increased performance, the car can still give moderns plodding along our rural roads a shock as I overtake them. The car, as I said runs well on 95 and I don't have any overheating problems as a rule. I just thought I would float the idea.

Pete, as usual a very well detailed answer to a question asked here, however NonMember's answer is much more in keeping with my technical abilities . "A bit more advance"? what a couple of degrees? 3 revolutions of the knob? Thanks to both of you.

My 13/60 is currently set to run on 95, there is no problem with it and I am quite happy as it is. However, I am thinking of resetting it to run on 98 so I looked at the manual to see what is involved. As I see it all the needs to be adjusted is the static timing and this is set with the knurled adjuster on the dizzy and by looking at the number of divisions visible at the vacuum end? I have no idea how many degrees BTDC it is set at so I thought – if I look at how many divisions are visible that gives me the setting, 1 division = 4° according to the hand book. Snag is as can be seen in the photo there are no divisions visible so I guess when the timing was set whoever did it simply turned the dizzy body until they got a smooth running engine on 95. Does this mean I need to go the complicated route and have the timing checked with a strobe and then reset it to run on 98? A previous owner also decided the dizzy looked better painted black, I have cleaned a bit off so as to be able to see the divisions easier, had there been any to see. I’m sure I can rely on you guys to come up with various methods, preferably including one that doesn’t require anything more than turning the adjuster a little. Fingers crossed.

A Big Shoe ?

Do they come in metric sizes or just imperial?

Another vote for Paul's example. I have a short length of hose pipe on it to protect the wheels. I can't say if this is the version that would have been supplied as standard but to me it looks as if it could have been.

Isn't there a doctor you can contact about that?

Me too plus it is a 2.5 litre. Unfortunately the add says "may not post to France", guess I'll just have to live without it 😥

Last year the temp gauge in my 13/60 started to read high but all seemed to be correct otherwise, not actually too hot. I suspected the stabiliser so replaced it with a solid state version, gauge started to read at an acceptable level again.

He was definitely cool back then, dude

Isn't that the core (oops!) of the debate, the standard of the cooling system - properly maintained or suffering from age? OK traffic density is far higher now in general than it was then, so maybe the cars spend much more time at idle than in the past hence the risk of overheating. Reading the posts it seems that all the various combinations of fan & radiator work, or not, for each case. It appears to me there is no "right or wrong" combination just the search for what suits each driver and car. Good luck to each. I know my case doesn't really qualify as I only have the humble 13/60. I try to keep the cooling system clean and have carried out an upgrade just in case. I have fitted the "export" fan i.e. the 7 bladed plastic one.