Chris A

Further up in the thread there is a reference to an e bay item - I'm too hot to go looking ?and I'm havinga mug of tea ? I have ordered one for my Herald and the guy selling them has one on his Spit so drop him a line. I'm not near my proper computer, using one of those touch tablet thingys - you know the make Eye Patch or something like that so can't give proper details.

Console? It's a 13/60 so dash is one piece unless I am mis interpreting something

Hi Doug, Yes I am intending to leave the existing unit in place, as you say who cares, as for earthing point, once I have the unit and fit it I'll look around for a suitable and easy to attach point. "Just undo the centre console reach in and pull the two wires off the back of the old unit". YEA! Laying on my back on the drivers seat body twisted at 270°, arm bent in 3 different directions, fingers at least 20cm long and very thin . . . . I think I'll have a beer. Know what you mean about the 50cl bottles. Luckily my local artisan brewery has started doing more in 33cl as well as 50cl. Some progress is good.

Don't worry about it I live with it and life has been adapted to it, I only drink 25 cl beers, no ice in my whisk(e)y to prevent any strain. Bought the Herald rather than a Ferrari as it would have been too low to get in.

Doug, thanks for the link. Been in contact with him and unit ordered. Now I will have to practice my limbo dancing to get supple enough to disconnect the old unit & fit new one, delivery from UK usually takes 7 to 10 days so I have time ! Thanks to everyone for your input.

Too late! Did it in 2005. Disc removed, another wouldn't pass the MOT so now function on Paracetamol, opium & caffeine (under prescription) with liberal doses of alcohol in various guises. It looks as is the common view is as I thought VS on way out. No way am I going to build one, I have enough trouble with LEGO! I am interested in the electronic replacement that can just hang in there. I'll look at the links quoted in replies but if someone can give an actual part number I would be very grateful. Time for my medecine, now from which bottle?

Hi everyone on this HOT afternoon. I am beginning to suspect the voltage stabiliser is on its way out. The temp gauge recently started to read higher than before, it is a new sensor but the previous was doing the same (I think). The feul gauge which normally was fairly accurate also seems to reading high. The gauge goes up to a goog 3/4 point and tends to stay there with occasional slight drops and rises to just nudge the red. I usually fill with fuel when the gauge is close to 1/4 when it would take 20 somethin litres. Today the needle was mid way between 1/2 & 3/4 and needed 16 and a bit litres, i.e.slightly over 1/2 a tank. It may be that as the needle drops it does get more accurate. Before anyone asks, no coolant is being lost, thermostat & rad cap haven't been changed. The top hose can be touched after a long run and the bottom one is noticeably cooler. I have ordered an infra red ray gun to check the temperatures. Cooling system has recently been flushed out. I checked the voltage arriving at the temp sensor a got fluctuating readings with a high of 10.8 lots of 10 point somethings, 9s and also very low scores as well. I havn't calculated an average as that would require noting the voltage and time duration... What sort of readings should I get? I would just order a new stabiliser but, as you all know, Triumph chose to mount it in, lets say, a less than convienient location! "Hot & bothered" in Normandy ?

Spotted an advert for a second hand one, but it is for sale in Florida ?

It would be worth persisting with the heater. i recently did mine and the gunge that came out was incredible. Mine is a Smiths heater. The valve was completely blocked so took it off, yes the nuts are small but the WD40 will have helped, use a good quality spanner and go carefully. I replaced the valve, well the other was corroded/ blocked beyond recovery. Don't forget the rubber 'o' ring when you refit /replace. I agree, who needs a heater. Mine is in a convertible so needed even less. Don't forget that a heater plus fan does give a little extra cooling for the engine (not you of course) should you need it one of these very hot afternoons !

Yes one set were the month/year The other I assume the makers reference

All fine now Took the old unit out and confirmed the thread pitch with the 5/8" nut. Cleaned the housing threads with a cotton bud and brake cleaner. There was quite a bit of black gunge - why black? Don't know. Used the 5/8" bolt to test the threads, went in perfectly. I used a plug spanner for the mower to remove and refit the sensors, it was n't a perfect fit but as the sensor was only in a little more than hand tight no problems. Comparing the 2 units ( see photo ) you can see that the old one has a shoulder the new one is sqaure cut which obviously means lining it up with the housing threads is a little more difficult to avoid errors. Took car out for a spin on my favourite test route, country road virtually no trafic followed by a main road, again virtually no trafic where it can be driven at speed if one should wish, respecting the new 80 Kph limit of course. No leaks & it works. Phew!

I visit to the John Deere dealer results in me having a 5/8" nut & bolt. One thing about living in a rural area there are as many tractor dealers as car dealers Tried the nut on the new sender, no problems therefore I need to direct my attention to the housing & old sender thread. That is for tomorrow as it is time for my mug of tea and cigar!

Thanks for the tip off. It did answer a question I forgot to ask initially - the thread size of the sensor, I will now pay a visit to the local John Deere tractory dealer to get a 5/8"" UNF nut if possible. Here of course everything is metric. My new sensor would only just make contact, not even 1/4 turn. I don't have the tools to tap the thread and I guess nobody else locally would either. Metric rules. At least I feel that it is just a question cleaning, sorting the threads. I hope! I'm not pressured as the existing works ok, but don't let the car hear that or it will take great delight in making it fail the next time I go out in it.......

Hi all Bit of a stumper for me but some one out there might know something. I decided to replaced the existing sensor with one I bought back in April from one of the usual suppliers. The existing one works but I just wanted to fit the new one, the old one came out with no trouble however the replacement wouldn't screw in. As the old one goes in and comes out with no resistance I wasn't going to force the new one. The new one was ordered as GTR108. There is a physical difference between the two items. The connector on the new one comes out of the centre of the unit, as per photos on supplier sites, the old one has it off centre. The housing looks to be the original type. I'm stumped, either the new item was incorrectly suppled, possible but not that likely I guess. The housing is from something else, again possible but highly unlikely as eveerything else is standard 13/60. Third option, for some reason a PO had the thread re tapped and fitted something completely different but does work. OR? Any thoughts welcome. Puzzled in Normandy

Probalbly a fungus called Brexitus Crapius

As long as that? By the time I'd closed the windows it had stopped here.?

I replaced the valve on mine last week. The old valve was completely blocked with goo, the hosepipe wouldn't clear it. With the hose pipe connected to the heater it flushed out fine, boy was it brown! to start with. I've fitted the standard valve and will make sure that I regularly use the heater just to circulate liquid and in winter when it goes into hibernation will leave the heater control in the "on" position.

It doesn't matter what you pack the car will find a way of outwitting you if it wants to. ?

daveclasper: Thanks for the confirmation

Paul & Dave 13/60 : Thanks for the replies. I looked at the wiring diagram again - this time with my glasses on - You are right the power is from the input side hence "raw" battery power, which is what I would have expected.

Hi everyone I've looked in the manuals I've got but can't find any information about the power consumption of a Smith's heater fan Do any of you know its consumption and what fuse would be correct for it. Second incidental question, why does it take its positive feed via the stabilizer and not from "raw" battery power? Thanks

Well what can you expect in the Sarthe! It's the PAYe de Loire You should have crossed over into the Orne. "Orne free" We eat Orne Flakes for breakfast.... I'll stop there, except the biggest selling T shirt of this type has Orne to be alive. The original world famous, well in France at any rate, hit song was Born to be alive. Enjoy LeMans, going to be very hot this weekend.

Personally I wouldn't take that spec as shown as confirming it is ok for petrol I'd want more details.

Tourmalet, the closest I get is seeing it on the Tour de France. Lucky you! Don't forget the new speed limit in France as of today. Reduced from 90 to 80 on main roads, single carriageways without a central divider. 2 Lanes in one direction and 1 in the other is 90 on the side with 2 lanes and 80 on the other. IF the 2 lanes are for use in one direction only. If it is a third lane in the centre used by either side then it is 80 on both. Why do simple when you can do complicated. Good luck.

Yes the roads are good in Spain now, EU funds. When we started going there it was quite different. Spain also has 'claimed' all the stock of left over roundabouts in Europe.