Mjit Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 Replacing the front wheel bearings on my 2000 and according to the workshop manual first step is to dry assemble and tighten the nut "...only sufficiently to remove slackness. Slacken the nut back to the nearest split pin hole..." - but what does that actually mean? Tightening the nut with fingers I can get to one hole and still hear/feel movement of the hub pushing/pulling it along the stub axle. Tighten to the next hole and can't hear/feel movement...but then backing of puts me in the hole with movement. Is that the correct hole to be targeting or does "remove slackness" mean something else? Why can't it be nice and simple like the adjustment "Apply a torque not exceeding 5 lbf ft to the hub nut, whilst rotating hub..."! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 use a spanner and lightly hand nip the castle nut back it of one or two flats there must be soome endfloat or you will quickly sieze the outer brg to its axle and thats ££££s to fix so just turn the nut back to align the pin hole generally there are two pin holes to aid adjustment end float is (not looked it up) 0.002" to 0.008" so you need to feel a small amount of rock at the wheel rim i dont advise the0.008" that gives you a good 1/4" rock at the wheel rim and can cause pad push back pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 7 minutes ago, Mjit said: Why can't it be nice and simple like the adjustment "Apply a torque not exceeding 5 lbf ft to the hub nut, whilst rotating hub..."! It is a bit strange but the theory is the looseness allows the inner race to rotate slightly on the stub shaft so meaning that any road impact load isnt always in the same place so it'll last a lot longer👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 Johny not many accept thats part of the design Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 well I did say its a theory and it does sound one of the more feasible ones🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 Is it the same as the GT6 tapered front wheel bearings? These are supposed to have slackness. I tighten them up before the MOT slacken them off after. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 1 hour ago, Mjit said: Replacing the front wheel bearings on my 2000 and according to the workshop manual first step is to dry assemble and tighten the nut "...only sufficiently to remove slackness. Slacken the nut back to the nearest split pin hole..." - but what does that actually mean? Sounds same as GT6 although not sure why they say dry assemble here. Are you supposed to take it apart again to put the grease in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted August 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 1 hour ago, johny said: Sounds same as GT6 although not sure why they say dry assemble here. Are you supposed to take it apart again to put the grease in? I'm not sure the 2000/Stag set-up is the same as the GT6 (I have a Spitfire and Spit/Herald/Vitesse/GT6 ARE the same). The Triumph WSM I have for my Spitfire has 'Put it all together with grease and set end float to 0.002" to 0.008" but the Triumph WSM for new bearings the 2000 has 'Dry assemble WITHOUT inner garter seal/tighten to remove slackness/back off to nearest split pin hole/mark nut position/remove hub, grease bearings and fit inner garter seal/refit hub/screw nut back in to position identified dry. For adjusting bearings in service it's 'Tighten nut to max 5 lbf ft while turning hub in same direction/back iff to nearest split pin hole'. Haynes WSM for the Stag is unclear, saying in step 9 'During initial assembly the bearings mist be assembled dry'...then just says 'Fit the bearings' for 10 and 'Pack hub and bearings with grease, then section 2' for 11 (section 2 is "In service" 5 lbf ft set-up). No reason/instructions for the dry fit or mention if the garter seal! Just looked through and, unlike the Spitfire one can't see anything in the 2000 Triumph WSM specifying an end float measurement, just the 5lbf ft adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 yes I suppose that makes sense with a new seal because you could do up the nut to remove slackness but be up against the seal instead of the bearing so that when the seal later beds in it will leave excessive play. However if the seal is unchanged I wouldnt have thought this procedure is necessary.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 Having used Taper Bearings in many aplications over a lifetime, It was always the case that a small amount of Slack was desirable. The taper headstock bearings on Large Industrial Lathe`s where no different. The only time we used "pre load" was on the 8ft+ bearings of the type seen on Centurian Tanks (for one), and Large Excavators. Uncle Pete`s Method is the correct one for this type of bearing. Nip up, back off to the first split pin hole and you are correct. Small movement at the rim when fitted is necessary to avoid seizure. P.S. If the MOT guy tell you different, refer him to the Timken bearing information source. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 I always find it strange though that in our diffs all the taper bearings are perfectly happy being preloaded😮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 7 minutes ago, johny said: I always find it strange though that in our diffs all the taper bearings are perfectly happy being preloaded😮 Not sure?. But I think the pre-load you speak of is to get the inner races in the correct position?. It`s so many years since I did a Diff, but I believe the bearing/roller clearance is then set by the use of shim`s?. Someone, with more recent experience than I, will be along to correct me I would suspect?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 yes your right, set by shims or crush spacer to keep the gears perfectly aligned. I suppose the difference is that they run in oil to get cooled so no risk of seizing from preload unlike the wheel bearings.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 back in the 70s it was found the idea of packing the hub cavity with grease just stores heat and does nothing to lubricate anything just a waste of grease and can adversly affect the cooling of the brakes so dont do it on these types of axles the outer ing rotates about the axle the inner race has to rotate on its axle or you would never remover the hub and it does protect the bearing from road impact by turning the big D washer will show rotational marking its quite normal . the 2000 range front hubs has an oil seal not a felt so there is no felt compression with these the rear hub bearing on swing axles has the outer with rotational clearance within the trunion housing 2000/stag /Tr6 the rear bearings are a different ball game all together I have not striped one to compare if the races are allowed to rotate in the hub assy this is a general design used for these sorts of applications the only area of pre load is the diff pinion and crownwheel bearings as these must not move from their settings under the varying loads applied and they are splash lubricated not relying on a few dabs of static grease Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 even rota flex rear hubs have a 0.002" end float adjusted by shims quite a faf to get it right Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted October 17, 2022 Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 Are the Shacktune bearing kits compatible with the 2000? I know they are with the GT6 and Vitesse and eliminate the slack there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 18, 2022 Report Share Posted October 18, 2022 Pretty sure they are as this was discussed in thread a while back.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted October 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2022 The compatibility checker on that eBay aution pags says they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 18, 2022 Report Share Posted October 18, 2022 Course best to confirm with supplier before shelling out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 18, 2022 Report Share Posted October 18, 2022 yes the 2000/stag /TR6 stubs are bigger diameter than the small chassis cars Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 19, 2022 Report Share Posted October 19, 2022 16 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: yes the 2000/stag /TR6 stubs are bigger diameter than the small chassis cars Pete Original TR6 are small stub axles, same size as Herald. And James’s kits fit the 2000 axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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