Front Hub Advice

[Steve P]

Advice required from the collective please.

I am rebuilding the front suspension and brakes on my 13/60,including the Canley uprights and four pot calipers. Got the hub back on this morning but i am unsure how tight it castellated nut should be, the manual mentions measuring end float with feeler guages. I packed the hub with lithium grease,everything else is torqued up to the manual spec.

Also when replacing the rack gator, what do i check for wear inside ?, and then regrease it with normal LM?.

Cheers

Steve

[Pete Lewis]

is this a  std upright or the upgrade  ones  ????  and hubs and bearings  

never any need to pack the hub cavity  just a waste of grease and retains heat 

 

pete

 

 

[Steve P]

It`s a Canleys trunnionless upright with the standard original stub axle but new bearings on the original hub. I did find the back cup and felt seal supplied with the bearings was bigger so i re-used the ones i took off(after a soak in gear oil).

Now fighting with the track rod end lock nut which is fused to the control arm. Broke my mole grips trying to get it undone.

Steve

[johny]

2 hours ago, Steve P said:

Also when replacing the rack gator, what do i check for wear inside ?, and then regrease it with normal LM?.

You can wiggle the end of the rack up and down as especially on the passenger side you can get wear in the internal bush plus theres an adjustable ball joint under the gaitor. This uses shims to minimise the play between ball and socket which if present contibutes to lack of movement of the wheels as you move the steering wheel from side to side. All in the manual...

[Pete Lewis]

well std hub and bearings  grease the races not the hub cavity 

hand nip the castle nut  give the hub a spin , back off the nut 1 or 2 flats   there are two pin holes in the stub axle to aid adfustment

but you must have some end float any pre load will rapidly seize the outer race to your new stub axle 

with the wheel on you should detect some rock at the wheel rim , the spec is 0,002" to 0.008" at the upper limit yo get a lot of rim rock like 4mm or more 

thats a bit too much  and will add to pad pushback   so you just want  enough to feel it rock 

1 flat back or maybe two but no more that that.

Pete

[Steve P]

Thanks Pete and Johny,going to try and get the track rod nut off again tomorrow to inspect the rack, i believe it to be the original one on the car which shows 78k miles on the odometer.

Tried to fit the new calipers and found the disc backplates foul the new calipers where the fold is,modification required.

Steve

[Pete Lewis]

have you got the TRE out of the steering arm    

best way to crack a taper is give the part with the  hole a hard sharp whack with a big hammer and the pin jumps out 

if the TRE is seized on its rod  you may need to disconnect the ball socket inside the bellows and put the rod in a vice  etc

Pete

[Steve P]

Track rod end came off fine,it's the locknut which is seized to the rod, I will take the arm off and get it in a vice.

Going back to Johnys comment about play, there is up and down movement in the arm at the inner end.

I'd rather repair this one than spend £200 on a recon.

Steve

[johny]

I take it thats at the passenger side? I believe theres a bush in there but the manual or websites dont mention it and I had to get an exchange rack....

[Clive]

1 hour ago, johny said:

I take it thats at the passenger side? I believe theres a bush in there but the manual or websites dont mention it and I had to get an exchange rack....

Part no 128002

https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/steering-rack-bush-inside-tube-2

[johny]

Thanks, thats different from what I expected and not really shown in the WSM although now I see it does say 'drift out the old bush before pressing in the new one'...

[Pete Lewis]

you reshim the sperical cup to just hold the rods own weight  so it has a slight grip  not wag in the breeze 

Pete

[Steve P]

Got the arm off fairly easily with a large adjustable spanner, lock nut easy to shift once it was in a vice.

The ball joint feels fine with no play,already cleaned up,painted and regreased ready to go back on,I cleaned up and refitted the old wire type Jubilee clips for the new gaiter rather than use the cable ties that came with the gaiters. 

That's one side done,now the other side.

Steve

[Steve P]

On 07/08/2022 at 14:14, Pete Lewis said:

you reshim the sperical cup to just hold the rods own weight  so it has a slight grip  not wag in the breeze

2 things, on mine, there is a locknut on the inner end, the cup, ball and control arm screws onto the rack and butts up against the locknut. Where the locknut sits dictates the freeness of  the ball and the arm, there is a small spring in the cup as well? no shims.

Also as i am doing the passenger side, the gaiter inner end has a smaller hole than the diameter of the big nut,how do i get that on? stretch it over the socket and nut?.

Steve

[Pete Lewis]

as to fit the rack gaitor  too many completely wrong ones are being sold  the end should  be the diameter of the rack tube 

or you will white knuckle ride for ages fighting the thing 

no  shims...so   there is nothing you can adjust 

pete

 

[johny]

Heres the diagram. Sounds like you might be missing something or have a different design. The shims allow a precise adjustment of the ball joint play (2 thou).

The gaiter has to be stretched over the passenger side ball joint but that shouldnt be much bigger than the end of the rack tube.... 

[johny]

Or maybe this one is more useful...

[Steve P]

Ok it appears I have as shown in the diagram, all back together now ,just need to go round and check everything is tightened up and put the wheel on and move on to the other side.

Steve

 

[Steve P]

Interesting weekend, was planning to rebuild the drivers side yesterday, ended up in A+E all day, had a sore calf muscle, turns out to be DVT in my left leg.

Injections yesterday and blood thinners starting today, scary.

Steve

[Steve P]

Back to the rebuild, i have noticed when doing the drivers side, the felt seal and carrier which comes with the bearing kit from Canleys, is larger than the one i took off.

It doesn`t fit snugly on the upright as the old one does, also i noticed when fitted with the hub on, the seal and retainer rotates with the hub, i remembered i re-used the old retainer with a new felt seal on the other side. Wrong part or just poor modern equivalents?.

Steve

[Colin Lindsay]

They've been supplying poorly made seals for years; I usually look out for NOS originals and use those. However the felt bit often comes out and rotates about, but the metal bit shouldn't move at all - it fits into the hub and rotates with that, but should be a tight fit.  

[daverclasper]

I reused my old seals. I have heard of folk carefully slicing them in half? 

[Steve P]

I`m confused, i`m talking about the metal carrier which taps onto the upright to hold the seal against the rear hub bearing, i was told to put a dab of Loctite on the metal ring to hold it?. Problem is the new one is a bigger inner diameter than the old one.

See attached from Rimmers:https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GHS110

Steve

[Colin Lindsay]

31 minutes ago, Steve P said:

I`m confused, i`m talking about the metal carrier which taps onto the upright to hold the seal against the rear hub bearing, i was told to put a dab of Loctite on the metal ring to hold it?. Problem is the new one is a bigger inner diameter than the old one.

See attached from Rimmers:https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GHS110

Steve

I'm confused too, that seal taps into the hub, not the upright. It faces out from the hub so that the felt points inwards towards the engine bay. The problem is that the outer ring of the felt seal is often too large, and has to be forced into place. Original versions press in quite easily.

There is an outer ring on the upright that acts as a water seal, the end of the hub sits inside this, but it's usually not removable although it sometimes falls off. If I wasn't in danger of burning the tea I'd add photos!! (Oven turned down, photos attached!)

  

[Steve P]

Here`s a copy from Rimmers, when dismantled, mine doesn`t have No. 8 on the parts image, the felt seal and metal ring are pressed on to the upright facing the hub?. Removed by lightly tapping the metal ring off the upright.