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Removing wheel studs from hubs. Spitfire Mk3.


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Hi Guys,

I need to replace my std wheel studs with longer to fit my alloys. The general method seems to be remove hub and knock out the existing ones with a hammer. Is it that straight forward? 

I am currently trying to borrow a rear hub puller.

I intend to fit the new ones using a strong vice to force them home.

Anybody done this and what problems were encountered?

Cheers.

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Just a good wack with a hammer will knock them out. I have always done it in situ. 

Are you fitting the same weedy 3/8 studs? or fitting 12mm? If going 12mm you may have to drill the brake backplate or remove the hub. 

To fit just use a stack of washers and a nut to pull the studs in. Always done it that way. 

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Fronts require splitting the hub off the rotor. Rears either need a hole drilled, hub removed, or you can fish them in if you cut 5mm off the end of the new stud thread, assuming you'll still have enough threads (depending on alloy thickness)

This assumes you are refitting with freelander studs, which you should :). Open ended nuts are a good idea too.

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8 hours ago, SpitfireGeorge said:

Hi Guys,

I need to replace my std wheel studs with longer to fit my alloys. The general method seems to be remove hub and knock out the existing ones with a hammer. Is it that straight forward? 

I am currently trying to borrow a rear hub puller.

I intend to fit the new ones using a strong vice to force them home.

Anybody done this and what problems were encountered?

Cheers.

What sort of puller are you looking for?

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Did mine many years ago drilling the backplate to avoid pulling, and thus disturbing, the hubs. Do not recall having to take the hub off the front but it was a long time ago. Freelander studs drawn in tight, and as Prophet says ideally use open ended nuts for an easy check all is well.

Dick

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if you fit 7/16 or M12  to the front you may find the forged head sits against the machined hub shoulder  a quick wizz on the grinder or file to make a short chamfer to just keep it clear or the stud will pitch .

all the ones ive done over the years just tap out and will pull in using a dummy wheel nut and some spacers quite easily 

the splined dia is same on the 3/8   7/16   M12  studs  so they fit the orig holes 

if you used domed nuts take care the studs dont bottom out if the studs are too long 

see you other post    

Pete

 

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Hi Guys,

The puller is the one sold by Rimmers with 4 holes to line up with each of the wheel studs and a central screw. I believe it is the same as the one sold by the club. Many, many years ago I tried to remove the rear hubs using a 3 hole slide hammer but that just folded the hub over like a sandwich. did not move it at all on the shaft! Have not tried since.

Why use Freelander or 12mm studs, are they longer as standard? The ones I have bought are 45mm long.

Cheers 

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20 hours ago, SpitfireGeorge said:

Hi Clive, The weedy 3/8" ones. Demon Tweeks have some which are reasonably priced.

I thought you had to remove the backplate to fit new ones irrespective of the size?

Cheers George

Are they 13.1mm spline? The mini ones don't work.

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