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tracking , castor , camber for modified GT6


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Hi 

I am new to the forum and wonder if anyone can help or knows someone who can help.

I have a Gt6 MKiii  (1972 non rotoflex) Over the last copuple of years I have been working on the same. Body off , complete respray and complete rebuild with the exception of complete engine rebuild. All suspension disassembled  . Chassis needed replacing and so all the settings for tracking etc lost.

I have fitted Pri race hubs that allow me to fit 16' alloy rims with 195 section tyres. GAZZ shocks all round and the rear has a lowering block.   Low but not too low. I am happy with the look but I know not everyones cup of tea! My problem is finding someone who can set up tracking caster and camber properly . I can do most things but these settings are beyond me. Can anyone help of recomend anyone. I am in Southampton. Many thanks if you can help. Cheers Paul

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Gleders,

Tracking - I've found that the Gunson Trakrite is quite accurate enough:

Gunson G4008 Trakrite Wheel Alignment Gauge

But before you use that, camber and castor must be right.

Camber is the angle that the wheel's disc makes with the vertical.   Negative is when the top is further in than the bottom of that disc.    This is adjusted by adding or taking away the shims behind the brackets that hold the lower suspension arms to the  chassis rail.   When you took it apart, you will have found some there:

Steel Shim - Front Suspension. Triumph Spitfire/GT6, Vitesse, Herald.   Always add or take away the same number of shims from both brackets.

You can buy camber gauges for all sorts of prices, just Google for them!    But it's simple to make your own from alloy sheet:

image.thumb.png.8e033edee1ce42691f40a0781245cd04.png

 Hang a weighed string from the top edge, along the vertical line.   Those graduations on the bottom edge indicate the angle - send me your email address and I'll send you details of how to calculate them

 

Castor , the angle in the fore-to-aft plane that the suspension upright makes with the vertical, is fixed in Triumphs, by the geometry of the suspension parts.     At the front you can adjust it, a bit,  by adding unequal numbers of shims, but this is not recommended!

 

Lastly, you have chosen to  run 16" rims!    Each to their own, but be aware - Triumph suspension imposes a lot of camber change on the wheels and tyres, which was n o problems in the day as they ran cross-plies.    Today we run radials, and you will need very low wall height tyres to get them into the arches.   Such low profile walls must be very stiff, which means they are intolerant of camber change as they will lift the tread off the road, reducing your grip.      Use the stiffest springs you can tolerate - I use 600lbs/in front springs.       The rear spring should also be stiff  as possible for the same reason - a Courier spring is the OE one, but you may not be able to find one, so perhaps a bespoke one.

 

Good luck!

John

John

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crikey the trackrite has rocketed in price since we last looked  its now at around £75  but will last years and soon get your money back

Gunson G4008 Trakrite Wheel Alignment Gauge : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games

incorrect Toe In is the main reason which will soon rip rubber off your tread more than any other incorrect setting 

and thats front and rear  Trackrite gives you the answer in 2minutes 

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

crikey the trackrite has rocketed in price since we last looked  its now at around £75  but will last years and soon get your money back

Gunson G4008 Trakrite Wheel Alignment Gauge : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games

incorrect Toe In is the main reason which will soon rip rubber off your tread more than any other incorrect setting 

and thats front and rear  Trackrite gives you the answer in 2minutes 

Pete

I paid just over £40  two years ago , 

Paul 

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and if they fly apart its esy to relocate the plastic rollers and the needle /pointer  if they over slide you can end up with a puzzle 

I have  had  a working life with all sorts and upto 8x4s   optical with lights , mirrors , target sights and laser  over the years  most take longer to set up than it takes a slip gauge to tell you the answer

and the side slip between tyre and road is the critacal bit you need to be zero 

these are so simple to use  you cant go wrong 

Pete

 

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