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Slow high torque starter


Iain T

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23 minutes ago, Wagger said:

not put the old one in series.

What I meant was to bypass the old solenoid and use a relay from the ignition switch to activate a separate power supply to the new solenoid starter. The main power to the starter would come direct from the battery. 

However if you think the original ignition switch and red/white wire can take 6amps then a relay isn't required. Although not electrically inclined too would think 6amps is fine for the standard setup. 

Iain 

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4 minutes ago, Iain T said:

What I meant was to bypass the old solenoid and use a relay from the ignition switch to activate a separate power supply to the new solenoid starter. The main power to the starter would come direct from the battery. 

However if you think the original ignition switch and red/white wire can take 6amps then a relay isn't required. Although not electrically inclined too would think 6amps is fine for the standard setup. 

Iain 

That sounds ok. As the original fuses were 10 amps minimum, that suggests that the skinniest wire should deliver up to 10 amps. Fuses are supposed to protect wire. However, any mods by PO's can have undesirable results, plus insulation chafing through with age and heat.

Don't know how your finances are, but a DC current clamp is a very useful tool. Simply clipping it around any wire will tell what current is being drawn. More often than not, mine (AC/DC 20A/200A) has allowed me to diagnose loads that are high resistance and not taking enough current. If you can afford such a device then obtain one with a 20 amp and 500 amp setting. It saves disconnecting wires and using ammeters. Ammeters cause voltage drop and even the best of us forget to return them to 'Voltage Mode'. I blew three up in my 50 year career, not doing just that.

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16 minutes ago, Wagger said:

Don't know how your finances are, but a DC current clamp is a very useful tool

On the list of must haves! 

Do they make one that fits around one's loved ones neck so I can tell if she's about to blow......!

Iain 

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17 minutes ago, Iain T said:

On the list of must haves! 

Do they make one that fits around one's loved ones neck so I can tell if she's about to blow......!

Iain 

That would require a high frequency a.c. version for most partners. A 'Far field' device would be even better. Scale should read, 'Welcome' at one end, 'Stay in the garage' at the other.

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Heat shield and wrap arrived today. I fitted two ali heat shields one over the horizontal 3-1 and a vertical jubilee clipped to the down pipes. I also wrapped the starter and wire with heat protection material. 

Upshot is the starter definitely cranks the engine faster and it sounds much better (no screeching). 

For the moment I've kept the bulkhead solenoid but I think I will change to the integral starter. 

 

IMG_20230525_141144.jpg

Edited by Iain T
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My wife loves the fumes from Ethanol fuel and when I do fibre glass repairs. ( No! not on the Triumph, but on former motorhome skirts) .

I do this work when she is out, far too deadly.

Just for the record, in our relationship she farted first. 'To test our relationship'.

Sorry to lower the tone yet again. It was lower than contralto.

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I've just been having some fun with a slow starter trying to awake my Spitfire from its winter slumber.

Day 1: Battery was new last year but trying to start only got a very slow, 120RPM.  Battery off and plugged in to charger, illuminating all the charge LEDs (has 0% to 100% LEDs rather than a needle gauge). Leave overnight.
Day 2: Come back and all lights off so refit battery and engine (eventually) starts.
Day 3: My car is MegaJolted and while it runs great it's never been a fan of starting. Re-reading the docs. lead me to the "Cranking Advance" setting that kicks in below about 450RPM and defaults to 12° but Googling suggest modern cars go as low at 5°, so I wanted to check mine/try dropping it.  Jump in car, ignition on, connect laptop and yes cranking advance is at 12° so drop to 10°, go for start and just get a single "Hurmp".  Assume getting it going yesterday took all the juice - which is odd as it's a way over-sized Yuasa HSB075 - so pull it again and connect back to the charger.  Which does nothing.  Pop out to buy a new charger assuming mine's just died, hook up and needle flicks to the 'empty' side.  Leave overnight.
Day 4: Needle now on 'full' side so refit and another single "Hurmp".  Pop to Halfords who test battery and say it's a little low but generally seems happy - but happily do a warranty swap anyway.  Get home, fit battery and...a single "Hurmp" again.  Out of interest connect to battery charger and...needle doesn't move.  Now the odds of the new battery being duff are slim (tested before it was handed over too) and remembering I still have the old starter on the shelf swap new, 'improved' high torque one for old one, jump in and with new 10° cranking advance starts instantly - then stalls because I've got zero choke ATM, expecting either nothing or a lot of crankking before any action happend.  Pull a little choke and key again - to be greeted by another instant start and with a little choke keeps running this time.

So what have we learnt...

  1. The expensive high torque started, fitted to avoid starting issue was the cause of them.
  2. I don't know if there was something wrong with the old battery or not.  Certainly something was killing battery chargers!
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On 26/05/2023 at 16:28, Mjit said:

The expensive high torque started, fitted to avoid starting issue was the cause of them

What hi torque starter did you fit? I have to say I'm (so far) very pleased with the club bought Powerlite. 

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