Tipidave Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 Having successfully removed the crank pulley nut and replaced the oil seal I find that I cannot find reference for the correct torque setting upon re-tightening. I could only achieve approx 70 ft lb and have marked it with a white line so I can inspect for movement. Is this sufficient? Does anyone know what it should be torqued to? Thanks again. For any assistance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgana Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 This thread suggests 150lbf-ft, and a means of getting there. No, I can't see a reference to that number in any of my manuals either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Yes strangely doesnt appear in the Herald workshop manual but the Vitesse one which has a very similar pulley (5/8 UNF bolt) has a figure of 90 - 100lb.ft This is about the same torque recommended for the rear axle to hub nut which has the same size thread and of course is identical to both models so sounds more reasonable than 150 ft.lb.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted August 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Hmmm… looks like I will need to have the radiator out again and have another go at it! strange that it isn’t mentioned in the manuals! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Must admit I dont achieve it on my pulley and the bolt has never moved - I think the action of the engine tends to keep it tight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 (edited) oh and reckon all the manuals have some small errors and omissions☹️ Edited August 29, 2023 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 1 hour ago, johny said: Yes strangely doesnt appear in the Herald workshop manual but the Vitesse one which has a very similar pulley (5/8 UNF bolt) has a figure of 90 - 100lb.ft This is about the same torque recommended for the rear axle to hub nut which has the same size thread and of course is identical to both models so sounds more reasonable than 150 ft.lb.... The Vitesse (and GT6) engine use a "normal" bolt, but the Herald & Spitfire use a fairly large stepped "nut". I cannot see how one would equate the torque of one with the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 The source I have says 90lb.ft for the Vitesse/GT6, and 150lb.ft for the LARGE Journal 4 cylinder engine (1-13/16" nut), but doesn't list a torque for the SMALL Journal engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Just checked three manuals including the Owners Repair Manual and Service Notes and none have quoted a figure so far for the nut. I'll keep looking, just for personal interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 I think its academic Colin as how are you going to hold it to go to a that torque? I dont know if even a flywheel gear ring lock would be good for it😁 Maybe use some threadlock on the bolt if youre really worried? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 The flywheel ring gear has to withstand the impact of the starter pinion, repeatedly! Remove the starter and lock the crank with a large screwdriver through the opening. Starter ring lock tools are available that engage on three or four teeth if you are concerned. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 what do you lock the screwdriver against though John? Then the teeth are vee shaped so not ideal for holding with a screwdriver😲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted August 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 As luck would have it I took a look at the torque wrench used to tighten the nut and I hadn’t relaxed the spring from when I used it (bad workshop practice I know!) and found it was set to 80ftlb. Given that it is closer to the 90-100ftlb mentioned for a similar nut on the vitesse I feel happier to leave it all alone and just observe it over the next hundred miles or so. No sign of any oil leak from the new seal which is a relief. Thanks for all of the helpful replies. It is great fully appreciated😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Great. Out of interest how did you hold the crank for tightening the pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted August 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 I really didn’t do anything other than ensure that the car was in gear and well chocked with handbrake applied. I incrementally increased the torque (starting at around 40ftlb )until such time as I judged it was putting strain on the transmission line. I did it slowly and carefully and got as far as the 80ftlb setting. That said, it is a hefty torque wrench left over from my Land Rover days… it has been well treated but of course there is no real way of knowing how calibrated it is. Nonetheless I think I am best off just enjoying the car and keeping an eye on it. 😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 29, 2023 Report Share Posted August 29, 2023 Tipidave, Calibration is easy! Does need a bench mounted vice, but you might be able to improvise. Fix the drive bar in the vice, handle horizontal. Hang a heavy weight on the handle, and move it outwards until the wrench clicks. Measure the distance between the drive bar and the weight. The torque applied is the weight multiplied by the distance. Check this with the wrench setting. Voila! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted September 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 Interesting to find that two of my three torque wrenches are way out of calibration! They are used infrequently and always stored with the spring relaxed. Thanks for the suggestion… at least now I know 😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 6, 2023 Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 Aldi are selling some this week £19 or was it Lidl ??? sorry been to both Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted September 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 Thanks for the tip… I will go and take a look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 (edited) On 29/08/2023 at 13:34, johny said: Great. Out of interest how did you hold the crank for tightening the pulley? Disconnect battery. Pop out the starter motor from the bell housing. Clamp a pair of mole grips across the front/rear faces of the flywheel through the starter motor hole. Tighten away. Always worked for me. Edited September 7, 2023 by Mjit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 You could always remove the petrol pump and jam a large screwdriver into the hole, which certainly locks the engine. After a few hours of jumping up and down on a huge pry bar and socket, the screwdriver ends up like this. Thankfully it wasn't my engine and I've no idea how it ran afterwards... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted September 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Blimey that’s not how you want it to look! Sure I can find a way. Probably remove the starter. Plan to drive for a while first (with lots of checking) at least I seem to have fixed the oil leak😀👍have also been researching how to recalibrate my torque wrench… it may be a bit Heath Robinson but reckon it should be doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 34 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: You could always remove the petrol pump and jam a large screwdriver into the hole, which certainly locks the engine. After a few hours of jumping up and down on a huge pry bar and socket, the screwdriver ends up like this. Thankfully it wasn't my engine and I've no idea how it ran afterwards... I imagine the valve timing afterwards might have been a bit out as the drive chain was twice its original length😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 4 hours ago, Tipidave said: have also been researching how to recalibrate my torque wrench See JohnD's comment above for starters. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted September 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2023 Yes I have been experimenting with weights at various distances… what I meant was to recalibrate the tool so that is reads correctly. One of my torque wrenches looks like this should be possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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