Help needed - 240v electric

[KevinR]

Just looking at the price of new pillar drills and I'm rather horrified by how much they now cost.

I've had a 16 speed Sealey GDM120B for the last 25 years - bought from Machine Mart back in 1998.

It's been a fantastic drill and will hopefully last another 25 years or more.

I recall that it cost about £80 when I bought it, and it now has a list price of over £500 (or about £350 for shopping around)

[68vitesse]

Seems very similar spec. to the one l bought from Machine Mart, one of my COVID buys.

Should have bought one years ago it's so useful and convenient, but must admit tend to use the same drill speed for the vast majority of jobs.

Did change the keyed Chuck to a keyless one though.

Regards

Paul.

Edited September 1, 2023 by 68vitesse

[JohnD]

Then I'm not doing to bad!

[Puglet1]

GrahamB. 
That’s useful to know.
If drilling an 8mm hole through 10mm flat bar, is it necessary to drill stepped diameters of drill bit starting with a pilot drill?This might seem obvious to you but I haven’t used a pillar drill before. 
I have always used this method with my hand held drill but some YouTube videos show no use of pilot drills.

[JohnD]

Me, if position is important, I always use a small (3mm) drill to make a pilot hole first.   It's much easier to position a small drill on a pop-mark.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello 

        How about this one and local it would probably do all that you want?

Bench Pillar Drill 240v | eBay

Roger

[GrahamB]

It was my father who informed me.  He completed an apprentice with Alfred Herbert, a machine builder in Coventry.  He had reference books detailing cutting speeds and lubricants for different materials such as mild steel, brass and aluminium.  I have now inherited his pillar drill and Myford lathe.   Alfred Herbert would have supplied machine tooling to Triumph and other manufacturers in Coventry.  When producing thousands of identical components, it would be important to use the optimum cutting speed and lubricant to ensure best quality and speed with minimum tool wear. If just one or two holes, I would follow John's suggestion but make sure that the work piece is securely clamped so that it does not move when drilling the larger hole.

[Puglet1]

1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello 

        How about this one and local it would probably do all that you want?

Bench Pillar Drill 240v | eBay

Roger

Hi Roger.

I’ll keep an eye on that one Thank you.

 

[rogerguzzi]

2 hours ago, Puglet1 said:

Hi Roger.

I’ll keep an eye on that one Thank you.

 

Hello 

      You need to be quick it goes out at 18.33 today.

This is the one I have and the date on it is 1983 so I suppose I have had my monies worth out of it?

The only mod is the switch box before it was on the lefthand side(frothe front) this one has the big button when the S**t hits the fan!

Roger

ps they have gone up a bit???

Sealey GDM120B 16 Speed Bench Pillar Drill Press GDM120B from Lawson HIS (lawson-his.co.uk)

[Puglet1]

Hi Roger.

In typical Pete fashion I was out when the auction ended but can see that it didn’t sale. 

[rogerguzzi]

8 minutes ago, Puglet1 said:

Hi Roger.

In typical Pete fashion I was out when the auction ended but can see that it didn’t sale. 

Hello

            Try sending him/her an email? and offer what you are prepared to pay

Roger

ps just noticed its relisted try for a buy it now offer?

[Puglet1]

2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello

            Try sending him/her an email? and offer what you are prepared to pay

Roger

ps just noticed its relisted try for a buy it now offer?

Offered the owner £30 starting price and it’s been accepted. Will pick it up over the weekend. Thank you.

Pete.

 

[rogerguzzi]

1 hour ago, Puglet1 said:

Offered the owner £30 starting price and it’s been accepted. Will pick it up over the weekend. Thank you.

Pete.

 

Hello

           That's a result and it is a good price but looking at it i would say fit a switch box on it not just plugged in ! one like mine with a kill switch when things go wrong!

Roger

ps a bargin and probably built like a brick outside toilet and cheap? now the learing curve begins !

[rogerguzzi]

Hello

           I would fit something like this so you can stop it quickly when the job starts going round with the drill(It will at sometime trust me!)

This the type I have it was on my old Myford lathe(sold) 

Pillar Drill NVR (No Volt Release) Safety Switch & Emergency Stop 220/240v DP | eBay

Roger

[Puglet1]

2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello

           I would fit something like this so you can stop it quickly when the job starts going round with the drill(It will at sometime trust me!)

This the type I have it was on my old Myford lathe(sold) 

Pillar Drill NVR (No Volt Release) Safety Switch & Emergency Stop 220/240v DP | eBay

Roger

Roger. Thank you for your help, I have just ordered one. Pete.

[SpitFire6]

Hi,
with the cheap cost of 3ph 230V inverters & the ability to simply move links to convert 3ph pedestal drills from 400v to 230V, I would not buy a single-phase unit. The motor would have to be sub 3.1kW of course.

The ability to run the motor at nearly double the 50Hz speed also has advantages.
Just do not forget that an inverter is NOT a gearbox.

Cheers,

Iain.

[Puglet1]

So. The drill is an old Walker Turner bench mounted pillar one. I have tried it and it runs smoothly and is very quiet. Using an 8mm bit, it drills through 10mm flat bar with ease. 
I have bought an NVR safety switch and have watched a YouTube video on how to wire it. 
I have attached a photo of the motor power rating label . Can anyone advise me on what 3 core cable I need to order? Looking on eBay there seems to be various sizes eg 1.5mm,2.5mm and 4mm.  
I will also need to secure the cable into the NVR box - what type / size of gland do I need? 
Finally, can anyone recommend where I can purchase these parts from as I have spent several hours visiting “the wrong “ retailers to find out they know less than I do…..absolutely ”Zilch “ ! 

[ahebron]

1.5mm flex is more than enough for that motor, you could even go 1mm.
The gland will be the correct one for the O/D of the cable and the NVR box, I would use on that compresses the cable when tightened up something like this

The terminals of the NVR will dictate how you connect the wiring to it but please use the correct crimping tool if you need to crimp any connectors and give them a good quick tug to make sure they are secure to the cable,

[Puglet1]

10 minutes ago, ahebron said:

1.5mm flex is more than enough for that motor, you could even go 1mm.
The gland will be the correct one for the O/D of the cable and the NVR box, I would use on that compresses the cable when tightened up something like this

The terminals of the NVR will dictate how you connect the wiring to it but please use the correct crimping tool if you need to crimp any connectors and give them a good quick tug to make sure they are secure to the cable,

ahebron, thank you for your response. I was thinking 2.5mm to be on the safe side. 
Am I right in thinking that I need to buy the cable, measure the outside diameter of it - then order the gland? 
Sorry if this seems like stupid questions but I’m really fearful of electric.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello 

         1.5mm 3 core 

This would do and probably over kill?

Time 3183TQ White 3-Core 1.5mm² Flexible Cable 5m Coil - Screwfix

or find it cheaper ?

I think 1mm is probably big enough?

Roger

[Morgana]

As rogerguzzi says, everything you need you can get from Screwfix or your local hardware/electrical shop if you're lucky enough to have one to support. 2.5mm2 is wild overkill, unless you have a gigantic cable run. The conductor size is for ensuring low resistance to current per unit distance, and to avoid the copper wire acting like a fuse, heating up and melting while setting fire to the insulation. This might happen if you used USB mouse wire to power your motor, for example. Your photograph of the plate says 2.2A for your motor. 1.5mm2 cable is rated for 15A at 240V. I'd use that simply because it's a little more bulky, robust and less likely to get snagged on anything than 0.75mm2, though that would be equally acceptable electrically. Consider that an old Kenwood Chef motor is about 1/2hp!

Take your box in to Screwfix and ask for a cable gland that fits, of the type shown by ahebron. They seem to do well in hiring very helpful staff who are not fazed by basic questions. The only stupid question is the one not asked, and it's extremely aggravating to order something online and find when it arrives that it's the wrong size. The threaded male part of the gland goes through the hole in the panel and is secured by the nut. The flex passes through the gland, and the acorn nut is tightened down to the external thread to clamp the flex and retain it, usually with a rubber seal for dust proofing.

Crimping the wire strands is advised, with a proper ratchet crimper. I put bootlace ferrules on any stranded cable that's going into a screw retainer (like a mains plug, for instance) and use mine all the time. Screwing down onto strands will fracture them in the end. Lots of things are fine like this, but it is required by engineering standards, and it puts my mind at rest to do best practice on electrical connections. I put a piece of copper pipe around my Herald's battery cable end, that was previously loose strands going into the battery clamp. I squeezed it tight in a vice before returning it to the clamp, so the screw now compresses the pipe onto the strands, obviating fracturing. The principle is exactly the same as crimped ferrules on the ends of domestic wiring.

[Puglet1]

rogerguzzi and Morgana.

That has been very helpful. I now feel confident enough to purchase the bits required.👍

[rogerguzzi]

10 hours ago, Puglet1 said:

rogerguzzi and Morgana.

That has been very helpful. I now feel confident enough to purchase the bits required.👍

Hello 

        If you get stuck just show us a photo of the box connections and I am sure we can tell you what goes were if not obvious?

Roger

[Puglet1]

rogerguzzi. Thank you for your support, it is appreciated !

Pete