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Vitesse petrol tank drain plug. Best left alone?


daverclasper

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Hi. I understand why this is best left alone, though please hear me out.

I have never had problems with any crud or rust getting into the feed pipe, though I understand that any water that may be in the tank from condensation (car is outside all year) etc will sit at the bottom of the tank?

If so, could this cause the tank to rot out at the bottom?.

If so, it would, lt would seem a good idea to drain the bottom of tank now and then?.

There is hardly any corrosion on my car, in fact I have never had a problem at all undoing any chassis fasteners etc.

So. I was thinking to attempt to gently loosen the tank plug. I think Colin advised to grip the plug neck.

I was also thinking that as well as penetrating fluid, some gentle heat on the neck would not cause the fuel to ignite, then some gentle tapping with a hammer on the spanner?

What do you think?.

I would struggle afford a replacement tank, if it did let go.

Thanks

 

 

Edited by daverclasper
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Thanks Johny, that's useful. I guess any drastic internal rot would be at the bottom and only seen with tank removal (unless fuel was completely siphoned out and maybe able to get a good view of bottom of tank)?

I'm thinking you reckon trying to remove plug gently is risky?. I wouldn't be giving much force if I tried this.

I think also this area of the tank around the plug has often been subjected to corrosion from road spray and boot ingress of water etc. Mine is externally very sound.

Think I ay give it a gentle go, wish me luck 

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1 hour ago, johny said:

Dont forget that corrosion needs oxygen of which there shouldnt be much in the fuel tank😮  

Thanks. I did wonder about that Johny.

 

5 minutes ago, Wagger said:

only use reserve setting to test for rust.

Thanks Wagger. I never use reserve, as not to risk picking up crud. How would I use reserve to check for rust without pulling it into the main feed pipe

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Fit  filter at the tank exit in the boot. change it if it shows rust. Blow down the exit pipe before replacing it and return lever to normal position. I always put a filter a this point anyway and check it before starting after a lay up exceeding 4 weeks. If I cannot see fuel in it, I use the prime lever on the pump until fuel appears in the glass bowl.

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Co incidentally I have just removed the tank from Plum, bit of a fiddle and I now need a new filler seal. As I needed to remove the overriders for refurb. As it was out and easy to access I removed the drain plug, gripping the neck with stillsons and after tapping the neck with a light hammer the plug came out relatively easy with a socket on the ratchet gun. Minimum load on the neck and tank or it’s weld. Fair bit of crap came out, and I have cleaned the area ready for a coat of paint.

Pete

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If you really want to drain it dry you can still do that without removing the drain plug. A vacuum extractor pump type thing will let you get a tube right in to the sump and get everything out. You can do this via the filler neck so you don’t need to disturb the sender either. 

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the reserve is the same feed  suction pipe thats curved 

when you select reserve you just turn the curve to a lower position in the tank its a very simple set up

if the tanks out its time to check the olive under the pipes sleeve nut maybe give it a nip up 

i would leave the drain plug alone more tanks have been wrecked than those that removed easy .

replacement new tanks done have the silly drain spout or the reserve lever option   far simpler but can be pricey

fitchets make them but only herald sizes which is ok in a vitesse as you gain in boot width.

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

my experience is the seals sold are made of cheese and within a year look worse than the original

certainly they are not resistive to petrol

pete

Got one coming from Chic Doug?. The old one split getting the tank out☹️.

Viewing the Pickup, is made impossible by the baffle in the tank, even with an endoscope it was very indeterminate.

Pete

Edited by PeteH
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Thanks folks. I will probably leave it and hope that in normal use/low use, maybe some periods of laying up, over 50 years +, the tanks are unlikely to leak through internal rust.

Would be interested to hear off anyone has encountered an issue with this?

 

Edited by daverclasper
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Not difficult to remove but firstly brace the drain neck, so you're twisting against that, not the neck against the tank itself. If you don't, you'll twist it straight off the tank. You must stop it moving, brace or grip it firmly before trying to undo the nut!! Plenty of penetrating oil helps, as does an impact gun, but be gentle as again you're not looking to twist the entire drain off. Little and often helps! Once the nut comes out, clean up the threads, and fit a new nut and seal, which can then be used to drain old fuel and hopefully water too every so often. 

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