Darren Groves Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I'm sure I've seen this question asked before on here, but couldn't seem to find the answer. When buying 5J x 13 alloy wheels, what would be the correct offset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Sorrydont have that , ring Garth have you upped the studs to 12mm or 7/16"unf, its a good time to do this pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hi Pete, Is the change of wheel stud essential or just a recommendation? Who sells them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hi. It was a recommendation I took up. Good quality 7/16 ones I got from jigsaw. They do extended length ones to. I believe 12 mm ones are readily available but need a bit of fettling I'm sure others can advise on this. Not sure what the offset is but the pcd is 95.25 Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I'm sure I've seen this question asked before on here, but couldn't seem to find the answer. When buying 5J x 13 alloy wheels, what would be the correct offset? Hi Darren, quite by coincidence my set of alloys arrived today. These are JBW Minilite style and they are 5.0J x 13 ET20 66 bore. Made to suit the Spitfire. I've not got a car here to try them but i hope and believe they are correct. regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hi John - You have ordered the same make & size I've been looking at, where did you buy yours from? What colour did you go for? Hi Aidan - A bit of research and looks as if the Freelander M12 stud (Part No. CLP9037L) is the easiest & cheapest to get hold of, so will shop around for those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hi John - You have ordered the same make & size I've been looking at, where did you buy yours from? What colour did you go for? Hi Aidan - A bit of research and looks as if the Freelander M12 stud (Part No. CLP9037L) is the easiest & cheapest to get hold of, so will shop around for those. I bought them from John Brown Wheels Darren. Mine are silver with polished rims. They look good and have been beautifully packed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 A bit of research and looks as if the Freelander M12 stud (Part No. CLP9037L) is the easiest & cheapest to get hold of, so will shop around for those. You won't regret it, especially when you compare the old and new. It is horrifying! Front hubs may need to come off (can't remember) and at teh rear you can knock the old studs out, but the new ones eothet need hub off (a PITA) or drill an access hole in the backplate and grommet after, which is an agreeable solution! Don't forget to get a nice set of nuts. VERY easy to buy, ford/rover/etc etc etc etc and you can buy the flash "tuner" ones too, all for not-a-lot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Yes you have to remove the front hubs. I can't remember if you had to chamfer the stud head on the landy ones to fit. The jigsaw ones are the same pattern as the originals Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I drilled and grpmmeted the rear plates to get the new ones in. A bit of a pain to do but easier than pulling the hubs ( unless of course you have the puller everyone recommends you use. This is all on another thread somewhere. ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 http://s545.photobucket.com/user/marcusaurailius/media/GT6%20%20Suspension%20%20Modifications/BILD0782.jpg.html Pinched from Marcus (he with the shag-pile GT6) pics And this from Nick Jones http://club.triumph.org.uk/uploads/wheel_studs_7493.jpg Shows the difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 yes front hubs off and remove disc. there is a casting radius on the back of the hub , this can pitch on the head of some studs all is needed is a very light grind or file a small chamfer on the stud head just where it will contact. pic is of OE stud fitted TR and 2000 saloons have 7/16unf studs that will fit if you want to stay unified. we fitted studs into the rear hubs of the Vit6 without removing the hub flange, cant remember how much of a fiddle . pull the new studs into the hub with an wheel nut and spacer they fit the original holes ok if using capped wheel nuts its most important you cut the studs to length so they dont bottom out and once on you will never get a sheared stud as can easiliy happen with the weeny 3/8"originals Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Hi Darren, quite by coincidence my set of alloys arrived today. These are JBW Minilite style and they are 5.0J x 13 ET20 66 bore. Made to suit the Spitfire. I've not got a car here to try them but i hope and believe they are correct. regards John Just had a reply from another supplier of these wheels, they recommend ET25 not 20. I presume that we move the wheel outward a tad? Canleys do a M12 stud replacement that is 5mm longer than standard, is that long enough or would the longer Freelander ones be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 That all depends on the thickness of the nave and design of the nut fixing if you use 60 deg cone faced or move to spigot location flat faced wheel nuts you can always cut one down but cant make it grow Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 QuoteHi Darren, quite by coincidence my set of alloys arrived today. These are JBW Minilite style and they are 5.0J x 13 ET20 66 bore. Made to suit the Spitfire. Quote I am about to take a set of these off my 13/60 and they are 5.0J x 13 ET 20 66 bore which fitted without any problems and replace them with old fashioned steels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I am about to take a set of these off my 13/60 and they are 5.0J x 13 ET 20 66 bore which fitted without any problems and replace them with old fashioned steels. Did you have a problem with the alloys Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Studs ordered, found them for under £1.00 each at http://www.paddockspares.com/clp9037l-stud.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Darren, after a small amount of faffing around to fit the studs you will be pleased with the result....one of the best upgrades when you remove the disc make sure the faces are clean and flat before mating back up. I didnt take the rear flange off but brakes shoes were out the way , if you measure what length you need using an old stud as a start you can cut them to suit before fitting the shorter the stud the more likely its an easy fiddle into the old stud hole if they are a bit slack in the flange loctite them in , then when you fit the wheel you dont knock the sods back out !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Quote Did you have a problem with the alloys Chris? No problem at all just that I find they look too modern (and too sporty?) on the 13/60. Purlely personal taste. They do suit some cars very well. My wife likes them except that they ought to have been in the colour of the body paintwork. The car came fitted with them plus a set of steel wheels as spares. The fact that I find them too modern looking, I know they go way back, is a tribute to their excellent design. I am going to live with the steel wheels for the coming season just to make sure I don't change my mind then try and sell which ever I don't want. They are easy to clean, by the way, a soapy sponge is all that it takes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Hi, I thought the Spitfire wheel had an ET+22. I would be interested in the true number if i'm wrong as I want to correct my MGTF wheels with an ET+28 to the correct figure. Example: it the OEM offset of your wheels are for example ET+22 and your new wheels are ET+28, you will need to add a spacer of 6mm to bring the offset back to ET+22. I used this helpful website to understand offset: http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Correct ET will put the load in the correct place on the bearing as OEM wheels. Wrong ET on the front can effect steering. I doubt 5mm or so makes that much difference? Did read some where that it is better to go one way than the other though. Different offset also effects your spring rate. I have 16"7J ET+28 on the rear & 15"6J ET28 on the front. Looking at having some proper spaces machined to reduce the offset to the correct value. ET+22/ET20/ET25? I have short shafts and CV's & a skinny ARB. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 New studs and wheels on today, here's a few pics. Thanks for the comments & suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Thats looking good, they are so much better than the 3/8 shear off originals and you can up the nut torque to around 60lbft pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nice! Soooooooo much better than the skinny studs, those m12 really inspire a bit of faith that the wheels will not make a bid for freedom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigboy306 Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 I brought these for my Herald http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-tr7-dolomite-alloy-wheels-barn-find-classic-race-no-reserve-/262283235425?nma=true&si=lUypKxEKS2gKm3oior438wiMnWc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 not got around to fitting them yet but want to. I get the stud thing and can fit them. But do I need a spacer betwen wheel and hub. The centre hole is 55mm like the steelies. Any help appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Hi, You need to look on the wheel and see if you can find an ET number (Offset). Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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