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No sliding joint on Propshaft


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 Hi all. Triumph Vitesse Mk 1, 2lt with overdrive.

I have just had a look at my the rear U/J on the prop shaft, with the greatest of difficulty on the floor with the car on ramps. I am used to seeing a sliding joint but this one looks different. It doesn't appear to have a sliding joint but Flexible driving straps. A look on Rimmers web site and a workshop manual shows a different prop shaft arrangement. I presume this is an early arrangement and the straps takes up the lateral movement of the propshaft. However, I would have expected the driving straps to be straight and not deformed in this way. 

Can anyone throw any light on the propshaft arrangement.

Incidentally it looks similar to the segmented tail rotor driveshafts on helicopters I have worked on. The straps flex a little to compensate for the fore and aft movements of the shafts.

propshaft.jpg

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Yes I dont think thats the normal arrangement for your car and it could have been installed by a PO or possibly even Triumph themselves. It doesnt allow as much movement as the sliding joint type (but then not much is needed), isnt so prone to wear but may not be as robust (Ive only seen them on Herald models).

It would be surprising if the propshaft was exactly the right length so it doesnt surprise me the straps arent perfectly straight plus on the central sliding bar theres been movement so its been doing its job...

As the manual probably recommends I would make it a part of routine maintenance to inspect the straps closely👍

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strap drives can be fine or with wear or seized spigots a right nightmare for noise and vibration

most unusual as  Jonny says on a  Vitesse  they  were a std fit on many 4 cyl cars .

most wnen in trouble replace them with a normal telescopic unit 

Pete

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That's a strapdrive ok; some Herald owners replace it with a solid prop. It may have been used on your car because it's been removed from another and was available for shortening and balancing - it won't fit the Vitesse unless shortened - but as you say if the straps are bent like that it seems a mite short. It's designed for very slight movement so I'd assist it a bit by spraying grease round and into the end of the sliding joint as, unlike later improved versions, they don't have a grease nipple. 

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Funny you should mention the length of the prop shaft. I have a feeling the engine and gearbox sit too far forward which accounts for the deformed straps. The rear gearbox mounted also seems to confirm this. There is a gap between the gearbox mounting support and the gearbox which has been shimmed by a washer. I tried moving the engine back but couldn't so I will leave it. It has been this way for a long time.

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As Colin says if its a modified Herald prop some 3" must have been taken off it. On a Vitesse there might be some room for engine position movement by which side of the suspension turret the engine support rubbers are bolted and also which way round the mount brackets are attached to the block....

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11 hours ago, Andrew said:

I have a 1360 herald and I am sure my prop shaft is solid no sliding joints or straps am I correct is there such a thing

Yes; 'normal' props have no joints or other 'gadgets' and are just plain the whole way along. Modifications like the strapdrive were to take up slight movement in the drivetrain, allowing a degree of flex so as to avoid wear of other components over time, and the 'sportier' models received sliding joints to allow even greater flex at speed. Solid props are great if well balanced; nothing to break!

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I had one made when I converted my MK 1 Vitesse 2L non O/D to 2.5 with Saloon box +  O/D. Smaller diameter tube but larger 100mm flanges.

Excellent service from Bailey Morris in Feltham. I still have the original if the OP wants it.

Steve

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On 09/02/2024 at 09:59, johny said:

so which way round the mount brackets are attached to the block....

Now there's a thought. My engine is compared to others too far forward. I'll check my brackets to see how I've fitted them. 

Iain 

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Swapping left to right pushes the engine further forward. Not what I wanted. I'm sure I tried it when refitting the engine. I could fit the rubber mount to the rear of the turret bracket but I didn't think that was as wsm. I don't have mount shims on the nearside and the sump is might close to the rack. I have two shims on the driver side with much better clearance. Another job on the list. 

Related to this I spoke to Superflex and ordered diff mounts and they are trialling poly engine mounts with a soft as original 60 Shure hardness. They won't be cheap! 

IMG_20240211_115039.jpg

Edited by Iain T
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I'll check but from memory its more of a problem of bellhouse to gb cover clearance. I have the cover higher on 12mm foam but it still nearly touches the bellhousing. This may be due to my T9 gb rear mount altering the angle of the engine/gb. Moving the engine back 6-8mm will give more rad fan clearance but results in another problem! 

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1 hour ago, johny said:

Ahhh you owners who start fiddling with Triumphs perfect design😲

In my defense Your Honor I bought it like it🙈🙉🙊. I'm just trying to make it all work properly.......well mostly as I do love fiddlin'

The words Triumph and perfect design shouldn't be used in the same sentence. 

  • Haha 2
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