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Magnetic sump plug


Colin

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I agree with Johny, it certainly make sense to have a magnet at least on diff and gearbox plugs. And they don't do any harm on engines either. A neodym magnet costs less than a £ and it is also easy to find one for free. No need to buy one. The magnets you find inside an old computer are extremely powerful and quite small. They can be placed on the outside of the plug on top of the nut as on the picture attached if you don't want to drill a hole in your original plug. It easy to make the plug yourself, no need to buy one and they don't leak (if you make one yourself using the original plug). Hence, I don't see any reason not to use a magnetic drain plug.

 

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Edited by Roger
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16 hours ago, johny said:

Trouble is once rounded off Im not convinced you can get proper replacement 'Dryseal' plugs anymore☹️ 

⅜NPTF solid plugs are listed on eBay, according to Google they are the same thing.

Regards

Paul.

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Johny:- 'rounded off' . . . I've had the darn things too tight before now and round the square nut off. 

Once out/off, I just coarse filed the flats for the next spanner down-sized. 

Eventually of course, if that continued there'd be nothing left eventually, but I've endeavoured to avoid that by not over-tightening, since! 🤣

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Also I wonder if the interference fit thread doesnt wear, especially over 50+ years, so the sealing is lost and it might be good to have a nice new plug especially one teflon coated😍 

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So . . . Chaps.

Theoretically, as an exercise; how far into the body of the plug should I drill for magnet insertion?!? 

I know, y'all gonna say depends which magnet type you're using! Roger says, 'not at all if using a hard drive magnet'! 

But I'm minded of the exercise I put jnto action with my green indicator jewel plastic lens. In bright sun I couldn't see if it was on, even with led bulb. So I drilled down into the body of the lens as wide as I dared and it let light into the plastic & I could then see the unit operating even in bright sun.

Should I drill way into the plug, inserting a rod magnet - as I'm thinking the small 'neodisc' (??) type might not be magnetic enough if only flush mounted to the nut head surface. Closer to the oil is better, right?!? 

101 to skin a cat etc.....

Cheers, chaps! 

Best, 

C.

Screenshot_20240617_154839_Chrome.jpg

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I've just been advised the nut, rear if cylinder head is the same part number . . . opens a new line of sourcing; some dealers have told me they'd rather leave sump nuts in to save their storage leakages!! 

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My 3/8 NPT magnetic plug has leaked since I installed in at the last oil change. Similarly to others it only engages a couple of turns. The PO had fitted a straight cut plug which again leaked. So after reading this thread I ordered a NPTF plug off eBay. It's not magnetic but the engine is only two oil changes after being fully refurbished. I hope this will stop the oil slick on my drip tray and chassis🤞

Iain 

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3 hours ago, johny said:

et us know the result Iain - it could be the holy grail, a dry Triumph

Will do. Now the rocker cover cork is correctly fitted that doesn't leak and I'm fed up with the cockpit smelling of hot oil.

Edited by Iain T
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

why not sleep easy and just do what triumph designed a well proven 50 yr old taper plug that just   ....works 

It may be Triumph actually used an NPTF? Either way my sump leaked like an I'll fitting catheter......

Iain

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I too, get heavy fumes into the cockpit, with the windows inevitably open. But with Bell twin s/steel exhausts I have been told that at most speeds the wrap-around exhaust pulls round the car (& hence into the cabin). I don't know whether tobelieve this or not . .   Soz, a bit off topic! 

Best, C.

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2 minutes ago, Colin said:

too, get heavy fumes into the cockpit, with the windows inevitably open. But with Bell twin s/steel exhausts I have been told that at most speeds the wrap-around exhaust pulls round the car (& hence into the cabin). I don't know whether tobelieve this or not . .   Soz, a bit off topic

I love a tread drift😁.

I'm tackling the fumes bit by bit. I think my wheelbarrow exhausts are not long enough. I may make a longer straight intermediate pipe from the Phoenix manifold to the Y piece with a small silencer to make it quieter and help exit the fumes out the back. If you find a solution let me know!

Iain

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yes tail pipe extension is very important 

tape some lengths of wool on the boot lid and drive you will be surprised where the vortex goes 

short pipes will fill the cabin with fumes its a time old problem 

Pete

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I believe the Phoenix system on my Vitesse is actually made for a GT6 so I wonder if the body overhang to chassis is longer on a Vitesse than GT6 making the pipes just a couple of inches too short?

Iain

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Peter that could be the answer?

Colin, going out now but I'll post a photo this afternoon . Can you take a measurement from your bumper to the tailpipe?

Iain 

Edited by Iain T
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