Robin Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 I've noticed recently a strong smell of petrol when I fill up and have just found a pool of fuel underneath the tank. I can't see a leak but I think it must be coming from near to the filler pipe as it only happens on a full tank. I obviously need to take the tank out for a proper check but is it possible to seal a leak or does it mean a new tank? If so, where's the best place to get one? Thanks, Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 They can get pinholes in the filler neck,easy to repair by brazing or soldering,i took mine to a radiator repair specialist for a refurb when mine was smelling in the boot. Also the pickup pipe olive can leak on a full tank so check that. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 If you can't find anyone to repair locally, then fuel tank repair kits do work on pinholes: http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-small-car-tank-repair-kit.html Have used these kits successfully on a couple of tanks, including my current one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Thanks Steve & Darren I'm pretty sure the problem is up towards the filler pipe ( facing the inner wing) - would the Frost tank sealant kit work there? A new tank from Rimmers is £270!! Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 I'm pretty sure the problem is up towards the filler pipe ( facing the inner wing) - would the Frost tank sealant kit work there? Yes it would. The kit is a 3 stage process, clean, surface prep and then sealant. At each stage you have to seal up all the holes and swirl each of the liquid around, so if you seal right up where the cap would go then it will work there also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Great - thanks Darren 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 http://www.tdfitchett.co.uk/store/fuel-herald-vitesse/heraldvitesse-petrol-tank-late-type-517974/ if you get stuck t d fithetts make them and a bit cheaper, and club gets a handling chagre for running the fitchet website for them note new are only Hearald size so you loose a coiple of gallons but gain boot width they dont have the nasty drain tube either to go rusty. Do make double sure its not dribbling out the filler and running inside, or from the cheap rubber olive on the reserve swivel and its old hoses pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Hi Pete Thanks for the tip When you say dribbling out of the filler do you mean out past the locking petrol cap and down the filler neck? I've just noticed that the rubber grommet than seals the neck to the wing is loose so I guess if fuel is coming out past the filler cap it might trickle down into the boot. I've also noticed that the paint on the fuel tank around the filler neck is damp so will investigate further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 the bayonets inside the rolled rim get damaged over the years as does the sealing face, its not a very hi tech cap make sure there is no leak from the lock barel key hole , these often have an O ring inside which can leak out. the body seals are often hard and dont realy seal well, the replacements are mick mouse and fail or go baggy with fuel so seal up what youve got is best if its needed. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Again Can anyone suggest the best way of cleaning a used tank? Is it just a question of sloshing some petrol around it to clear any debris or is there a better method? Thanks Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Gravel. Few handfuls inside the tank, some water and detergent, and a LOT of shaking it about! M/cycle boys wrap a tank in blankets and put it in a concrete mixer for a while, but you'ld need a big mixer for a Vitesse tank. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Use some nuts and bolts, and water with some detergent (washing powder should do it). Shake for ages to remove any debris, hose out until happy. Then some phosphoric acid to sort any remaining rust, then rinse with water thoroughly. John beat me to it by seconds! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Sloshing with fuel should get rid of the bits, but not the varnish and goo, nor the rust. I suggest you use the POR Marine clean, but you may need to do it a couple of times. http://www.frost.co.uk/cleaner-degreaser-por15-marine-clean.html see also: http://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-repair-my-fuel-tank then, because there will still be rust, and you may have exposed fresh metal, I would de-rust and phosphate it it with metal prep: .http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-prep-metal-ready.html I have no connection and I know the stuff is expensive but it works well. I expect someone will advise Cola, vinegar or milkstone remover (all work to a certain extent) but I have used the POR products and rely on them and both beat me! I wouldn't advise gravel - it's a bu**er to get out The process can be pretty time consuming. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Not if you choose the right sort of gravel! It comes graded theses days and 10-20mm should be right. But BRILLIANT idea! You need: Boy Scouts - 1 Patrol Trek cart - 1 of VERY rough road - approx 1 mile of, can be doubled. Strap tank to cart, tie scouts to cart (by very good knots), offer them lashings of lemonade at the other end of the run. Stand back! Watch out for your gingganggoos! Clean in no time. Like this, but a rougher road. Ah, those were the days! My Troop had a trek cart - great fun, for a while, Blisters after that. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Quick update - managed to get a second hand tank which looks in pretty good condition. There's a small trace of white spirit in the bottom so I guess someone has tried cleaning it? Think I need to remove the sender unit to get a better look inside - are there any problems in taking this out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I was advised not to re-use the seal but new ones are cheap Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 the bayonet ring just taps round to allow removal, look at the flat sealing ring , if its sound re use if its grooved get a new one there's a good chance the old one will be better fuel proof rubber than some of the crap rubber ones available these days ive seen replacement dissolve in a months use they go all soggy and deformed ....not fuel proofed Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Ask the vendor if they are made of "Viton" rubber. See here under "Gasoline" http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-3 John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 For my part, I have used both the Frost products route and the radiator specialist route. On the former, a handful of bolts and their cleaning compound worked well, but remember to remove the fuel tank sender to avoid damaging it, or gumming it up when you apply the tank sealant stage. I had no subsequent problems with the sealant degrading with the high ethanol fuels we seem to have had foisted upon us. I still have that (Vitesse) tank in the loft, complete with new fuel gauge sender unit and instruction label. Of the two approaches however, the radiator specialist was by far the best. They steam-cleaned the tank, cut off and welded up the heavily-pitted drain tube, pressure-tested and painted the tank for £35 - a bargain. That one is still in the car. Regards Steve C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 For my part, I have used both the Frost products route and the radiator specialist route. On the former, a handful of bolts and their cleaning compound worked well, but remember to remove the fuel tank sender to avoid damaging it, or gumming it up when you apply the tank sealant stage. I had no subsequent problems with the sealant degrading with the high ethanol fuels we seem to have had foisted upon us. I still have that (Vitesse) tank in the loft, complete with new fuel gauge sender unit and instruction label. Of the two approaches however, the radiator specialist was by far the best. They steam-cleaned the tank, cut off and welded up the heavily-pitted drain tube, pressure-tested and painted the tank for £35 - a bargain. That one is still in the car. Regards Steve C Hi Steve Where are the rad specialists you used? Thanks Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 the bayonet ring just taps round to allow removal, look at the flat sealing ring , if its sound re use if its grooved get a new one there's a good chance the old one will be better fuel proof rubber than some of the crap rubber ones available these days ive seen replacement dissolve in a months use they go all soggy and deformed ....not fuel proofed Pete Hi Pete - the sender unit on the replacement tank is held in by six screws so maybe this is an early vitessse tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Robin you could have trouble here, the 6 hole fixing float is generally for the non stabilised gauges and has a very different calibtation to the stabilised gauge senders if you have a meter check the resistance from Full half and empty, compare the orig with the replacement or connect the replacement sender into the harness and see what it does with the gauge reading , the old and newer designs cannot be intermixed. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Robin you could have trouble here, the 6 hole fixing float is generally for the non stabilised gauges and has a very different calibtation to the stabilised gauge senders if you have a meter check the resistance from Full half and empty, compare the orig with the replacement or connect the replacement sender into the harness and see what it does with the gauge reading , the old and newer designs cannot be intermixed. pete Thanks Pete - glad I asked the question. Looks like I've made a bad buy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 You can make a 6 hole fit in a bayonet ring by cutting the unit smaller diameter but you cant make a bayonet ring fit a 6 hole tank Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 You must do the test to prove or disprove before you jump ship Im sure the readings are pretty much reversed, wrong senders gives wild results on the gauge Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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