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Cailper mounting bracket


bengaku
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Hello i have checked forums but havent seen anyone with a similar problem. While changing over the cailpers on the drivers side the two mounting bolts have sheared and are now stuck in the bracket .I thought i could drill out the old sheard bolts and replace with new ones .But this isnt as easy as first thought i know if can get off the old bracket i can easily sort out the problem in work.So this is my probelm car has been off road since the 90's. Most of the bolts connected to the bracket look rusty and i dont want to further add to the problem by breaking more bolts or nuts so is it possible to do this without taking off the bracket ?Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks for looking... Paul

 

 

should add its a herald 1360 im working on

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Is there any of the bolt protruding from the vertical link at all, i.e. enough to get a grip on? Heat, vibration and penetrating oil will all help loosen the bolt but it depends on whether you have to drill into it or not as to how easy it's going to be. Tap the metal around it in a fast rhythm with a small hammer, this is often enough to break the rusted seal. Plenty of penetrating oil - and buy proper penetrating oil - will help but allow time for it to soak down into the threads. If applying heat while on the car watch out for fumes that may ignite. If the car is as rusty as you hint at I'd treat all the nuts and bolts to a spray of good oil, in case the entire assembly has to come off eventually. 

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Yeah i have put plenty of penetrating oil on all of them left it for a few days i dont access to torch to heat it up not enough of the bolts perturbing to get a grip on them was hoping to drill out to near enough the size then using a sharp small chisel just hammer out any remaining bits and hopefully it wont damage the threads .

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You could take the whole front vertical link off.

In fact, you will be wanting to inspect the threads on them anyway, or replace them as a matter of course.

 

Just release the bottom shock bolt, then the trunnion bolt, then the top balljoint bolts. Then you can get the assembly in a vice for surgery.

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You could take the whole front vertical link off.

In fact, you will be wanting to inspect the threads on them anyway, or replace them as a matter of course.

 

Just release the bottom shock bolt, then the trunnion bolt, then the top balljoint bolts. Then you can get the assembly in a vice for surgery.

 

And the track rod  end joint suggest breaking this first!!

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  • 1 month later...

Well just to update i now have sorted out problem with the sheared bolts and have got the caliper on the car .Put in fresh brake fluid andnotjing happens the pedal goes down less than an jnch but has no resistant fluid doesnt go down any from main reservoir .So any ideas what can be the problem? Thanks for looking regards Paul

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Would be interested to know how you sorted the bolts?

 

If I follow the rest of it the pedal goes down an inch but there's no resistance? Could you explain a bit more?

 

Fluid in the reservoir won't go down, unless your bleeding the brakes. The system is sealed, the fluid pushes the slave cylinders and the various springs pushes it back. If you have a leak or are bleeding the brakes the fluid will go down when you release the pedal.

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Bleed nipple is opened but when you press down on brake pedal nothing happens as it should.ie it should push out air then brake fluid but it doesnt im thinking it might be the push rod is sticking ?.as for bolts i just tried again till i got them loose never give up as they say.

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Hi

Did the brakes work before you started? If so and the bleed nipple is new it may be blocked. Try again gently with plenty of rags to push the pedal down with the nipple removed to see if the brake fluid is circulating

 

Aidan

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the master cyl pushrod must have some free play, with foot off it must be a rattling fit in the cylinder. if it doesnt fully return due to pedal seizure or 

or brake switch is holding pedal off, then the reservoir will not refill the cyl and if the  piston end reservoir seal  is not seating you wont pump anything

 

just some ideas 

 

Pete

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Hi

 

OK as you say, probably need someone to help and see if the master cylinder is being actuated on pressing the pedal. Otherwise the only thing left will be the pipes and splitter (Can't remember the correct name!)  

 

I did have a rear blockage once or a very poor flow to the offside rear but was able to clear it by removing the pipe from the rear brake slave and pushing on the pedal again - used half a lire of brake fluid, and the crap taht came out was not nice!

 

Aidan

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Thanks for the advice will try over weekend and see what it could be guy in my work has a spitfire he did say that perhaps i might need to buy a refurb kit for master cylinder as it might have a bit of corrosion on push rod as the car has been unused for so long

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Update took off brake master cylinder and indeed it has a split in the rubber and is full of gunk so push rod seized took it into worked put it in a sonic bath push rid now free plus cylinder looks brand new just waiting on rebuild kit swap over for new seals and hopefully its good to go .

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Update sorted out master cylinder with new seals push rod goes in and out freely so putit back on car filled reservoir with fresh new dot4 and nothing happened. So took off the pipe connected to cylinder when I press on brake pedal almost no fluid comes out i would have thought that it would come out quite fast as the pipe is disconnected. Any theory's? Could it be the spring or maybe the seals not placed correctly any ideas much appreciated

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The main culprit is the small seal that closes the reservoir port

if its not seating for what ever reason you just push fluid in /out the resevervoir not the pipe port

 

its s simple cylinder if you copied how it all ifs theres not much to go wrong

other than the fit of the seals, amd the pedal does return to give some free float on the push rod etc.

and the piston returns to its circlip stop.

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Ok that sounds like the culprit right enough i didnt reseal it myself a guy in the work did so he might have not place seal in correctly sounds like an easy fix if i can take it back off and just recheck the seals are all placed in the right way thanks for the advice.

keep you updated

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Latest update took off the brake master cylinder strip it down checked all the seals rebuild it back on the car this morning and result it all works brakes are blead so all i need to do is get it MOT happy days ahead cant wait to get her on the road where she belongs thanks for all the advice.

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