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Haze in the cabin


dougbgt6

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I thought my glasses needed cleaning but, no. The tell tale curl of smoke from the heater intake grill was a clue, the cabin was filling up with exhaust. Lifted the bonnet and WOW! The manifold to down pipe gasket had obviously failed.

 

Off with the carbs, inlet and outlet manifolds. The gasket had mostly disintegrated, my own fault for not replacing it when the head gasket blew. Rocking the manifold back and forth when putting the head back had not done the gasket any good.

 

Almost everything back together, got to get it running and into the garage today, before the snow comes (Really?!! :blink: Well, that's what they say.)

 

Scary thing was I just thought my glasses needed cleaning, I didn't smell exhaust gasses at all.

 

Go check your manifolds!

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I've pointed out before that the multiple holes in the bulkhead, poorly sealed due to old perished rubber gaskets and the gerabox cover to floor seals, are the cause of hot driving.

 

At this time of year, did you have your heater on, Doug?

 

This isn't just unpleasant fom the heat that gets in, it's DANGEROUS from the Carbon monoxide in exhaust gas.

Please check your bulkhead and cover seals.

John

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No, I'm reliably informed Ikea meat balls have a particular, overpowering smell, this mist had none.

 

I always think the GT6 bulkhead to bonnet rubber seal a poor design. It works fine on a Spitfire but the GT6 has a power bulge so there is a gap which the seal doesn't touch and engine smell and heat  vent over the fresh air intake  I have experimented with a section of door seal on the lip of the bonnet which cuts the irritants down and also stops the bonnet flexing and vibrating. 

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Pete, leave my nuts out of it.

 

Only 6 at Thames the other night, usually 15 to 20. First month ever East Berks had more! Well, alright, we had 6 as well, but not the same 6, except for me.  

 

 

And a groan for you Dave. :lol: 

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Dave, no, that was odd no noise indication. Although I have long suspected the baffles in my stainless box are shot due to the odd exhaust noises. I wonder if my gas sensor next to the kitchen boiler would work in the car? Might try that. Although testing it on the exhaust tail pipe might knacker it, then where would I be?

 

I'm thinking of buying a plastic gearbox cover from the club shop, engineer a flap for gear oil top ups and seal the whole thing to the body with silicon bathroom sealant. Others on here have done this.

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Dave, no, that was odd no noise indication. Although I have long suspected the baffles in my stainless box are shot due to the odd exhaust noises. I wonder if my gas sensor next to the kitchen boiler would work in the car? Might try that. Although testing it on the exhaust tail pipe might knacker it, then where would I be?

 

I'm thinking of buying a plastic gearbox cover from the club shop, engineer a flap for gear oil top ups and seal the whole thing to the body with silicon bathroom sealant. Others on here have done this.

Hi Just refitted my Fiberglass gear box cover , made a door for gear oil level inspection . The rubber draught excluder sold by the club has a peel off paper to expose the adhesive which is worse than useless - I glued the draught excluder to the base of the housing using Gorilla Glue This glue is activated by water and is brilliant stuff. With the water activation the glue area expanded significantly and when set there is no way the excluder will come off - I found the best way was to clamp the excluder to the fibre glass base .  To complete I added aluminium backed sound proofing to the underside - The pics were taken prior to adding the draught excluder

 

Hope this helps

Paul 

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Doug, There are a number of ways. What about covering the hole with a piece of shaped soft metal held in place with screws and use thick plastic sheet as a gasket. Plates can be fixed, with screws, to the gearbox side to hold self tapping screw clips to take the screws from the hole cover.

 

Dave

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