GT6 mk3 gearbox - mystery wires

[Dave pb]

Hi

Its time to change the clutch  - I've got as far as removing the gearbox cover.  A quick inspection showed a very new-looking gearbox, but at the rear-end under the selector cover and screwed into the top of the gearbox was a big plug about 1.5 inches dia, and about 1 inch high with two wires attached, which then disappear into the loom in the engine bay.  Not shown in WSM. Looks like a sensor of some kind maybe.  Any ideas?

 

Regards
Dave

====

[Clive]

photo would help, but it sounds like the switch for the overdrive or reversing light. I know late GT6 had a slightly different arrangement to earlier cars, but same meat different gravy.

[Guest]

Hello Dave.

It could well be the switch for the reversing light(s) and easiest way to check if you do not have r/lights is to disconnect the wires and place a multimeter on the terminals, ignition on and engage reverse. If meter shows a voltage then that is what you have. If not could be the switch for the O/D.

Does the switch look something like this - taken from a different vehicle ??

Regards.

Richard. 

[Guest]

The switch on the left in the photo is the reversing light switch - are your wires that colour ?? I accept not all cars used the same colour configuration but most adhered to the Lucas wiring identification system.

I have attached the BS-AU7 Lucas wiring ID code FYI and assistance, which may be useful.

Probably useful for other Forum users as well.

Regards.

Richard.

BS-AU7-LUCAS-WIRE-COLOUR-CODES.pdf

[Pete Lewis]

later reverse switch was fitted under the remote housing, thats what you have found 

overdrive inhibitor uses same switch but will be fitted to the front of the remote assy 

Pete

[Dave pb]

Thanks everyone.  I guess its the reversing switch. I'll test later.  It looks more like the one on the right in the photo above. I also found that a mouse had made a home in there between the cover and the gearbox. A while ago by the looks of it.  It has made a nice hole in the cover and the carpet.  On that subject,  is it normal to make a  hole for the gearbox filler plug (mine hasn't got one), so that you can top up without taking everything out? 

 

On another note,  the a-frame (dashboard support) came out really easily, compared to the TR4 which needed, shall we say, persuading,  out and back in.

 

Dave

====

[Pete Lewis]

yes make the hole bigger than you expect so you can get 18 fingers 6 tubes ,3 oil cans and the cat through the hole

so big as possible or its still a faf especially upside down in varifocals and a dead torch ,  many have that Tee shirt

Pete

[Paul H]

Here' one I did earlier - and confirming the size is right as checked the oil the other day 

Paul 

[Guest]

Dave.

In essence the switches are the same despite the shape, it is purely that - a switch.

The reason the 2x sets of wiring look different is that I did an article about using wires properly with their connectors and insulating sleeves; along with keeping the single wires tidy with heat shrink tubing. Left is good - Right is poor which of course is the comparison that was required for the article.

Regards.

Richard.

[Dave pb]

Thanks

 

Paul H.    Is that heatshield/soundproof stuff on the inside of the cover?  Did it work?

 

Dave

====

[Paul H]

Yes it is - ive completed the boot , rear seat , front seats , just need to complete the footwells & fire walls - used www.silentcoat.co.uk  2mm + covered with closed 5mm black foam on the floors - much cheaper than dynamat and both available on Ebay - Yes it works very well and pleased with the results . Silent coat is self adhesive & i warmed the squares up with a heat gun  then completed with a wallpaper roller, easily cut with scissors - The foam is also self adhesive

Hope this helps 

Paul 

 

[Dave pb]

Thanks. Looks good. As I've got mine out I think I'll give a go. (The gearbox cover).

 

Dave

 

[Dave pb]

hi

 

Gearbox and bell housing out after a struggle getting around the airvent pipes.

 

Clutch out this morning after a further struggle.  The driven plate itself was smooth. I checked the replacement and that had ridged sections so I guess the old one is worn out.

Removing the clutch housing - and one of three rivet type things came out with it. Didn't look sheared-off or anything.  Are these meant to come out? Looked like a guide/locating piece, round, about 15mm long, steel.

 

Dave

==

[Colin Lindsay]

One of three around the extreme outer edge? Not meant to come out, they hold the bits together...

[Dave pb]

I think I found it on supplier website. Described as a dowel -  clutch cover to flywheel .  Not the rivet holding the clutch bits together, I'm pleased to say. Being a dowel I'm assuming they do come out.

On the subject though, I looked at the replacement bits I bought 2 years ago (2 years!),   and discovered that I had also bought the whole clutch cover as well as the driving plate. 

The original clutch cover looks fine to me.  Is it worth replacing the cover with a new one? I guess they don't get much wear and tear?

 

Dave

====

[Dave pb]

Paul H - thanks for the tip.  www.silentcoat.co.uk  2mm.    I bought this stuff this week.  Great service - ordered Monday, arrived Wednesday, free post and packing!  This is excellent as usually companies want to charge  European shipping rates to get stuff to the Isle of Man, even though you can pop it in the Royal Mail just as  if delivering in England. The stuff looks good, and heavy.  On a similar note Screwfix also deliver here next day for no postal charge.

 

Anyway, I digress.   All stuff ready to go back on the car now, just want to make sure I do everything sensible  before I put it all back together.  One tip I got from the  TR site, was to make access holes in the gearbox tunnel for the Starter Motor bolts, so you can take it out without dismantling everything.

Any more good ideas?

 

Dave

 

 

[ShaunW]

6 minutes ago, davepb said:

One tip I got from the  TR site, was to make access holes in the gearbox tunnel for the Starter Motor bolts, so you can take it out without dismantling everything.

Any more good ideas?

 

Dave

Ditto for the gearbox oil filler. 

[Pete Lewis]

One trick when refitting the gearbox, 

Use a alignment tool to correctly align the disc ans flywheel spigot.

The gearbox will enter its splines into the new disc and then stop , use anything, bit of timber or whatever to use as a gauge to check the

Gap between clutch hsg and back plate is a equall parallel gap all round , its often the case that struggles begin and you think you have it  

All lined up when  the gap is |\  or  \|  when it must be ||  

Pete

[Dave pb]

The new clutch is in. I had an old alignment tool to centre the driving plate with the cover. Seems to be successful.  I had to replace some air ducting that looked like it had been chewed by a mouse.  Next step - put the gearbox/bell housing back in.  A real struggle getting it far enough forward. The gear box extension bit  is still sitting on the transmission tunnel and needs to move forward about 4 inches, but trying to get it at the right angle while the rear end is up in the air is very difficult.  Tried various things for an hour this morning but no joy.

 

Any tips ?

[Clive]

Use 2 long studs or bolts with the  heads cut off and screwed into 2 of the topmost locations (usually short studs in there)

That enables you to get the height correct and takes the strain, then you can wiggle the tail and it all just slides in (well, almost!)

If needed jack the back of the engine up a little to help?

[Dave pb]

Like the long studs idea.  The back of the engine is jacked up a bit,  but actually seemed to raise the whole car too! 

 

I'll try the stud idea.

 

Thanks

Dave

==

[Pete Lewis]

It wil raise the car as you liff the weight of the engine   ..its normal.

Rotate the assy a bit to get the hump of the clutch housing to go under the heater  then repos upright Drop the engine heght 

wil help, but get it jacked to re align  the two long studs is a good help,

To support the gearbox and allow some wigging I use a stout timber about 5ft long to use as a lever under the box against the floor /chassis lets   you lift and jiggle  with ease

Pete

[Dave pb]

hi

 

I  spent another hour yesterday with the hefty stepson. We got the input shaft in, but only up to the splines. After that couldn't move it forward anymore.  The rear end is hitting the prop shaft face, and we cannot drop it down further or push it forward.  i'm guessing the splines on the shaft on and those on the clutch plate are maybe not lined up - can I just rotate the gears so that the spines move a bit. Even if they are lined up though, it seems impossible to get the box in the right plane in 3 dimensions at the same time.  Big length of timber next on the list.

 

Dave

==

[Pete Lewis]

you do need to lift the load of the front to get the splines into the disc, or it just abutts on the spigot end and stays a good few inches away

john made a simple bolt on handle to allow you turn the mainshaft coupling  ( with it in top gear) so you can  rotate the input shaft

but a lift . all aligned  and  a good wiggle and it should pop in  do not let it hang on the disc without support or you bend the disc centre hub

so six pairs of willing hands 3 sets of eyes looking at alignment and   whoosh !!!

Pete

[Dave pb]

Hi Pete

 

A bit of rope, a good length of wood, and a quick clout or two seem to have got me further into the disc,  and just  onto the studs at the top. A bit of parallel alignment as you pointed out a few message ago, and a couple of shoves by me and the stepson should see it done.  Looking very much more promising now.

 

Thanks

Dave

==