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GT6 loom


Kevin.payne.15

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3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Dave,

Yes that's my understanding of how it works and what I thought I said. I think we are getting confused with the particulars of the GT6 installation, which is what Kevin had.  On a late GT6 the resistance is a resistive wire (white/pink) and physically it runs between the ignition switch and the 12 volt output connection on the solenoid, which (yellow/white)  in turn runs to the coil. Disconnect the resistive wire and no 6 volts. Disconnect yellow/white and no 6volt or 12volt! :lol:

Earlier 123 have said the installation will run whatever the system so I guess Kevin having asked us what a ballast system is has not disconnected or bypassed his current ballast wire.  But with Kevin's latest revelations regarding started solenoid and now 123 saying "No!" to ballast, who knows!  :wacko:

Doug

Arrr! I agree Doug. The tricky people, it must be a shorter run to the solenoid and have saved the makers a few pence. Kevin will have to get the ignition supply either from the switch or the fuse box?

Changing the subject it looks like we are all suffering at the moment. I got trapped nerves in the back, no sleep and the same this end no alcohol now, prescription pain killers 

Thanks for clarification.

Dave 

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Dave, yes I think you're right, save a few pennies. Tightwads!

As said, late GT6s have a ballast system and from what Kevin says, he fitted the 123 and coil last summer and had it running. Also he asked what a ballasted system was, so he wouldn't have known last summer to bypass the resistance wire. Which leads me to believe the 123 & coil are running on a ballasted system. I'd put money on it, well, Pete's money. 

Doug

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I'd guess the 123 system runs on either; optimally on 12v but can also cope with 6v, given the excellent electronics. I doubt if there's any danger in running it on full strength.

If it was me I'd buy a complete non-ballasted system, eliminate this part of the electrics completely, and enjoy the modern day advance in technology that we didn't have back in the early 1970s which required this system in the first place.

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I suggested just bypassing the ballast so that it would be simple to get points reinstalled quickly if needed - cos its bound to fail when you are in the middle of nowhere and its peeing down.

Though you would have to change the coil too if its a 1.5Ohm job otherwise the points won't last long!

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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

I wouldnt bank my money on the outcome it wont take you far !!  Or solve ballast on  ballast off

This is the reason I'm totally bamboozled by all the debate. I'm obviously missing something completely here.

If you have a ballast system which you don't want / intend to use, and it's not essential to the electronic equipment, then why all the debate about it? Kevin has it running using the 6v ballast system, which it has coped with so far,  but it will work much better on the full 12v and the full strength coil.

Which is what you yourself said way back in the second post..... "You only need the balast loom if you keep to a 1.5 ohm coil and also have the short yellow and white link from the stater solenoid With the 123 I would get a 3 ohm coil and dump any ref to balast ignition feeds"

Given that the 123 dizzy is an expensive piece of kit I'd do exactly that. 

So: why won't it take me far?

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ok so this is what happens when I go to work for a day, some how a question regarding modifying the wiring mutates onto preferences for pain killers ! 

Given that I’m 4 days into dry jan I’m not allowed the booze either

given the copious responses then what I think is happening is that actually the car has been running on the 6 v supply, it’s just that the 123 wasn’t told so coped with it! 

I think that what we need to do is get the resistive wire loom (because it’s closest to the installed) then rip it apart and replace the pink/white resistance wire with standard cable  and get the coil to run at 12 volts  I might even remove the white/ yellow end by the coil just to tidy it up

think this should work if I understand  

I really wished I had paid attention to the electronics module at college 

Tried autosparks but they can’t supply for 6 -7 weeks whereas rimmer have I stock but at a significant price hike  looks like I’ll have to raid the piggy bank a little deeper

thanks for your support

kevin

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