Blitz Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Quick question. Going to check my engine timing. What should it be using modern premium fuel etc. Thanks. Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 For 97//99 ron fuel , as close to factory spec as you can , if it pinks under load retard just a little till it stops pinking If you dont have a lamp, strobe or any setting equipment , raise the idle to about 1500 and rotate the dizzy to get the best running position And retard it from best, a run up the road it should pull at 30mph in top without pinking its head off If it does just keep backing off till the tin can rattle of pinking disappears pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Thanks Pete. Just checking factory specs are still relevant today so that’s good to know. Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Its just in their hey day they were designed to run on 100+ fuel, you used 95 ** in mowers and some low compression side valves Of you have run on 95 unleaded then you must retard a good few degrees to stop pinking, you loose a good chunk of performance and The combustion becomes overheated, not a good place to be , Dont waste money on any afddatives just stick with a ultimate or similar fuel, 6There is lots of lead memory in the head casting so no need for lead supplements either , If you do ever get a valve problem then its the time to have exhaust inserts fitted , till then , buy decent fuel, use car , no worries Maintain settings close to spec and the car does what it was intended Use low grade fuel and you loose performance, over heat valves, and gives less smiles Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Thanks. Yes will run on premium fuel so will use the original settings. Working through things to find out what's causing the 4k rev limit. New plugs ordered and will look at the Dizzy next and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Grant, No! Original settings won't work, my GT6 is supposed to be 13 degrees BTDC, but these days, with the best fuel I can get, it's at 7 BTDC. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Doug ever thought your damper ring may be on the move ?? johns on the lookout for a loose damper ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Item 11 on this diagram is described as a crankshaft pulley and damper https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-mki-crankshaft-and-camshaft However, on this diagram, for my car, item 154380 is simply a crankshaft pulley. https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-crankshaft-flywheel-connecting-rod-piston So, do I actually have a damper? Worried of Twyford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Doug the rear ring with the timing marks on on both these pullies is rubber bonded to the main pulley It has a possibility the bond fails and the ring/damper weight with its marks actually rotates out of position To check it the flywheel has a tdc line but you cant see it with the clutch hsg on. Next time you take the head off you, could make a piston stop and halve the arrest point to get tdc Or grannies knitting needle down a plug hole , but hard to detect crank tdc whith a piston at top as the crank can turn a good bit without the piston moving Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Pete, I know that. I remember John's thread. It was a joke. I'll get my coat. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 9 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: Grant, No! Original settings won't work, my GT6 is supposed to be 13 degrees BTDC, but these days, with the best fuel I can get, it's at 7 BTDC. Doug Mine runs happily around 10 degrees irrespective of fuel according to the timing light. But mine is the earlier spec of engine to yours. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Gully, I read elsewhere my engine is the least desirable of all! I set my timing by the Pete Lewis ear method, or if I'm feeling technical the vacuum gauge eye method. Eye is more or less the same as ear, turn dizzy for maximum vacuum/revs and back 1 bar. So actually I don't really look at the BTDC, last time I looked, a long long time ago (in a galaxy far far away) it was 7. Better fuel does allow further dizzy adjustment, on mine anyway. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: Doug the rear ring with the timing marks on on both these pullies is rubber bonded to the main pulley It has a possibility the bond fails and the ring/damper weight with its marks actually rotates out of position To check it the flywheel has a tdc line but you cant see it with the clutch hsg on. Next time you take the head off you, could make a piston stop and halve the arrest point to get tdc Or grannies knitting needle down a plug hole , but hard to detect crank tdc whith a piston at top as the crank can turn a good bit without the piston moving Pete Could also drop the cam cover off and find TDC based on the cam position - No 1 inlet valve at highest point should be 110' ATDC (If other 6 cylinder engines are anything to go by) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 I stand by the "ear" method every time. I have said it before, but when my car was on the rolling road the chap (VERY experienced with carbs and dizzys) could not improve on what my ears had set the dizzy at. And I am hopeless at setting stuff up. Doug, it may be you have tired dizzy springs? I discovered mine were on my Toledo (TR7 engine/distributor, spawn of the devil himself) and gave full advance from about 1500rpm. I managed to get some new springs of different strengths/lengths and played until the curve was within the factory limits. Seems to have improved economy! Still doesn't like to rev over 3K, but that may be needles/filters.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Guys! Why are you ganging up on me?!! My engine works fine! 7 degrees is fine, it doesn't matter, neither here nor there, slack in the timing chain, it works, no pinking, no problems. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 no no (not the hair jobby) you've got to get in there and solve the mystery, if only 3 degrees theres a song coming through Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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