Jump to content

Triumph Spitire Restoration Books


Black Cat
 Share

Recommended Posts

just to  add a club reprint part list manual is always a good exploded view of components along with a workshop manual , 

agree  the haynes resto manual  dick suggests  is a good back up with  clues about how to on many repairs you are likely to unravel as you get to know your car 

and good data about the evolution upto and from changes as the models evolved over the years 

Pete

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't strip down TOO much at once, or you'll end up with a collection of bits that may never see the road again. Keep the car largely complete and rolling unless major work is required, and driveable if possible so that you get some enjoyment, and can take it to a garage or a friend's house / club meeting if necessary. It's no fun having a bare shell taking up room in the garage that you can never find a welder / sprayer / helper for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank's Colin, the car is unmolested as yet, it has good floors boot but it does require one lower front wing and drivers sill and door skin as its had a ding, I am the welder and sprayer but i will start a new thread tonight with pictures I want to do a full back to bare metal restoration whilst it is good nick, I have already got a qoute for blasting and my aim is to try and get the welding done whilst still on the chassis then get the tub blasted for paint, whilst away i can make the tub frame so i can spin the tub to paint, at this point everyone might have there head in hands thinking it will be another in a thousand bits for an iternity but i am aiming for a date or that's the plan, regards wayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds good, the reason I pointed that out is my 1200 convertible came off the road for a rolling restoration in 2008, then realised it needed a new chassis as the original was rotten, so off the chassis it came for an estimated 6-month resto. It's still a collection of bits; can't get it to the welder, can't get it to the sandblaster, can't get it to the painter.... one thing after another!

Had it still been a complete car: no bother.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully, with all my fingers crossed i don't find lots of issues, the trouble is the car has been stood since 2002 in a garage so it needs most things sorted and if i start from scratch at least it will be right rather than freeing things off only to find a major issue somewhere and start again 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My spit was in bits for two years. Do not do what was done to mine by a pro mechanic. Photograph everything before you remove it. Get loads of bags and empty cans and put everything you take off in a labled bag, put all the bags in a tin (those big cans of fruit from Lidl are ideal) and lable those. If you replace the nuts and bolts, fine, but then you can compare the old and new before fitting. All my hardware was thrown in a bucket. Alot are still in the same bucket 30 years on. Throw nothing away, no matter how bad, it can be used as a pattern, comparison or spare. Ask questions here. That's what all the forumites are here for. They have helped (and are still helping) me, and I wouldn't want to do anything without knowing that a wealth if experience is within my grasp via the internet. You are very fortunate starting a restoration in this internet age. Many of us did ours with only the workshop/Haynes manual and a copy of AutoTrader (or similar) to source parts.No youtube or how to videos!! Of course back in those dark ages, you could still rampage around a scrapyard without health and safety being bleated at you. Good luck and most of all... enjoy.  BW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't wait, I have done a few cars before so have learn't a few things not to do lol from experience I am fortunate to be in the fabrication business so I will knock up my door gap tools, stands and things I can also use the resorces of our powder coaters for all my bolt on parts to bring back to new, I have a good size workshop with spray booth so chassis and tub will be 2k, get ready for lots of questions as i go lol, I have been gathering plastic containers for all my parts to label.

Nuts and bolts I can source from our works supplier, regards Wayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...