DCZ1643 Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Hi All.... I had an interesting experience today, whilst driving my 1974 1300 Spitfire. I came around a bend and suddenly I had something banging on the drive/running gear of the car. I wasn't far from home, so I cautiously drove back to my garage. I jacked up the car to see what had happened and discovered the nearside rear wheel had come loose and was missing one of its studs. I should say that when I bought the car, it had been fitted with brand new Minilights. On further investigation, I discovered that two of the remaining alloy wheel nuts could not been tightened properly, as the studs don't really protrude far enough, so they have probably been over tightened in the past. I have looked around the internet regarding this problem and I found an article by a chap called Paul Geithner, about upgrading the studs and nuts on the Spitfire. The recommendation is to replace the studs with Land Rover Freelander studs (part No CLP9037L) He says the reason for this is: "These studs are 12mm thick, 1.5mm per thread (i.e., M12x1.5) and they have the right knurled diameter (0.510-0.520 inches, or about 13.0 to 13.2 mm) so they will fit snugly and just right into Spitfire and GT6 hubs. Freelander studs are 2 inches long, 1.3 inches of which is threaded, versus the stock Spitfire and GT6 studs that are 1.5 inches long, 7/8 inch of which is threaded (1/8 inch on the end is an unthreaded “easy start” shoulder)." Obviously I will need to also buy new wheel nuts as well but does anyone have any experience of this issue and can you confirm this as a solution, or suggest something else, as until I solve this issue my Spitfire will need to stay in the garage. Cheers.....Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Common solution - pretty sure a search on here will come up with some. I have some to go on when I finally get some Minilites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Just upgraded to freelander studs on my vitesse as original studs only had 6 turns . I have minilite copies. Search this forum plenty of info Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 http://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/3608-fitting-longer-wheel-studs-vitesse-mk2/ Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Thank you to everyone who replied to me and thanks for the link to the thread Paul, that is very useful. I will get the parts ordered and get on with the job. The most annoying thing is the that the Minilights were supplied and fitted by a Triumph specialist. I would have thought they would have upgraded the studs for safety reasons, unless the previous owner did't want to pay for it. I consider myself lucky, I didn't lose a wheel and no damage was done but I didn't know what I was riding on and that is scarey. Again, thank you everyone....Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Beware of 'specialists' Some are good with money ,, your money not so good with the cars you would be surprised at some we come across Triumph 7/16" studs are a straight fit if you want to keep it triumf and unf rather than metric Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Thanks Pete, I have ordered the Freelander studs (CLP9037L), along with 12mm 1.5 chrome nuts. I have also taken the opportunity to add locking wheel nuts as the current set up leaves the wheels very vulnerable to thieves. On another issue, the same Triumph garage did a diff refurb on the car about 10 months ago (again for the previous owner). However, the diff is leaking oil from the flanges on both the half shaft oil seals, on the diff. Do you know if the bolts with the hexagonal / Allen key fittings need to be retightened after using the car for a while? I can't understand how a rebuilt diff is leaking oil. Cheers....Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 nothing to stop giving them a nip strangely there is no gasket shown for this housing, there are gaskets about , but the OE parts list doesnt show any if its the face thats leaking you can undo the allen bolts splip the hsg out a little and seal it , but needs drive shafts off to get at the bolts through the coupling bolt holes Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 47 minutes ago, DCZ1643 said: Thanks Pete, I have ordered the Freelander studs (CLP9037L), along with 12mm 1.5 chrome nuts. I have also taken the opportunity to add locking wheel nuts as the current set up leaves the wheels very vulnerable to thieves. On another issue, the same Triumph garage did a diff refurb on the car about 10 months ago (again for the previous owner). However, the diff is leaking oil from the flanges on both the half shaft oil seals, on the diff. Do you know if the bolts with the hexagonal / Allen key fittings need to be retightened after using the car for a while? I can't understand how a rebuilt diff is leaking oil. Cheers....Derek Some think Triumphs where designed to leak oil as a rust prevention measure. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 So of the two things you say this 'specialist' did, it's a 100% failure record, and one is a safety issue? Your 'interesting' experience might have been your last experience if it had happened on a busy motorway. If I was you I'd be having a good look at anything else they've touched! And given that sort of record, it might be a good idea if you named them so they don't get the chance to rip off anyone else from here, or worse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks Pete, it is the face’s that are weeping. I realised when I had a look yesterday, that I would need to unbolt the half shafts to get to the Allen bolts. I think I will keep the diff topped up for now and sort the job properly during the winter. Do you know who supplies gaskets? I have signed up for a 2000 mile trip through France, with Club Triumph next year, so I want the car to be right. Stopping the wheels falling off will be a good start? Thanks for your help.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 dont know . i was just wondering if the ones for the brake back plate are somewhat similar ??? but i would use a product like loctite 574 brilliant stuff for face to face joints Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Slight thread drift , loctite 574 . Is it ok for petrol ? On my CDSE 150’s on the choke control there is a dry face to face surface which in my case must be distorted probably due to over zealous surface cleaning consequently despite tightening up the 2 screws leaks when using the choke . I have used a careful dab of Wellseal and it works would Loctite 574 do the same job as it looks like the loctite could be applied more accurately . Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 No diff gaskets for the sideshafts. At least never seen any fitted to a diff, or for sale. I think a slight smear of hymolar is all that is needed. The fact a garage fitted the alloys and never checked the nuts etc were ok is worrying.... I wouldn't be using them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks for the advice guys. I think I will try the loctite 574 and see if it does the job, if not, is it a diff out job to change the oil seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 You don't need to drop the diff to get the side shafts out. Just disconnect the halfshafts. And here I am racking my brains to remember what needs to be done to do that. Probably..... disconnect the lower shock mounting (leave shock connected at the top) and spring eye bolts. That will take the tension off the shafts. Then undo the halfshaft bolts and move the shafts a little outwards (thinking disconnect handbrake cable at one end?) The use an allen key to undo the quarter shafts from the diff. The quarter shaft seals, if they do need doing, require a special tool to pull the bearing off, but many places will be able to help. If the nose seal needs doing, that can be done easily in situ too. Even better is you should have a 3.89 diff in there, which uses a castleated nut and splitpin, which is just torqued up. (later diffs use a crushable spacer, so great care is needed to put the nut back in exactly the same position) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks Clive, I think this will be a winter job, as I will be garaging the car up when the bad weather comes. I am glad the diff doesn't need dropping, as that looks like an awkward job. When you say a special tool is needed to pull the bearings off, can you elaborate on that?. I have had a look on the Rimmer Bros website and I can't see a tool for puling the bearings, I will have a look in the Haynes Manual, there may be some information there. Cheers....Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 A bearing puller! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ1643 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Thanks Clive.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 When I did mine used Hylomar Blue on flange faces. http://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/1918-diff-inner-axle-shafts/?tab=comments#comment-21127 Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 As the race is very close to the housing you need a puller with thin jaws tomdrag it off the shaft Gripping the bearing in a vice and smacking the shaft might if your lucky but they are very tight and you risks wrecking the bearing But if the oil seal is sound just pull the hsg, enough To add a film of sealant dont have to remove the whole shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 I used Rimmer's Studs part number 21H5774XL on my GT6 MK 3, The nuts came with the wheels £1.02 each Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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