cggs Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Slight seep from the output flange area of the overdrive on my Spitfire 1500. Does anyone know if the output shaft seal can be replaced in-situ or does the transmission have to come out? I can imagine that pullers might be needed to get the flange off. I suspect this is a forlorn hope.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 I'd guess - if it's anything like my GT6 - that by removing the rear tunnel cover panel this will give access to the end of the propshaft and the rear flange, so if there's room to drop the propshaft out of the way the flange can be drifted off and the seal replaced in situ from above. Beware the sharp edges of the bodywork, but it should be feasible unless there's some obstruction or other that I haven't thought of. I've located a rather small pic on the Net that seems to me to show how accessible it all is, even with the black tunnel cover plate still attached so based on this I'd go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 The coupling is on a straight slined shaft and will pop off quite easily with a few light taps , hookmthenoldnseal out tap a new in flush Grease the coupling surface to aid not nipping the new seal, torqure the nut Top up any oli loss EP80/90 GL4 oil ionly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 I've done mine in-situ, it's awkward, but do-able. Much improved if you have a slide hammer for pulling the old seal out. As said by previous posters, output flange will come off relatively easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 We did the rear seal on Toby's original box in-situ many years ago. It's not too bad a job. Mind you, we were taking the propshaft out to be balanced at the same time, which improves access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cggs Posted August 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 Thanks for all those comments. Seems like it's not as bad as I feared. Am really keen not to have to take off the main tunnel cover as unfortunately I've just re-sealed it down. Dropping the propshaft will be interesting as there is a 2 inch exhaust drainpipe running not far beneath it.... I think I may be inclined to let someone with garage hoist to take on the job as grovelling under the car has lost what little appeal it ever had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 11 minutes ago, cggs said: I think I may be inclined to let someone with garage hoist to take on the job as grovelling under the car has lost what little appeal it ever had. Looking back at the answers & advice that have been generously given, I get the impression that grovelling is not necessary and that the job can be done tackling it from the top. I think you will find that if the car goes to the garage they will veer towards removing the transmission tunnel as it is the easier job option. By undoing the prop at the O/D end you should be able to drop it out of the way providing sufficient room to do the job, which is what I believe you were hoping to do, hence commissioning the thread ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 you cannot do this from under the car the tunnel has to come off...again sorry Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 What size socket is the output flange nut? Having got the overdrive working on my MKIV, whilst taking it for a test drive with the gearbox tunnel still removed, revealed a leaking oil seal as described above. Thanks Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 My spare J type overdrive output flange nut is 1⅛AF. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 1 hour ago, 68vitesse said: My spare J type overdrive output flange nut is 1⅛AF. Regards Paul Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Barry have you got something to hold the flange as the nut can be done up pretty tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 yes stick two old bolts in the coupling and jam a bar /lever in to hold the coupling from turning Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Thanks Johny and Pete I was planning to utilise the old bolts, holes a bar to hold the flange still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 if you want to knowa lot more about heres a link to Buckeye triumphs geabox/overdrive how to's its aimed aat TR but much is relevant to all others https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox?rq=overdrive Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: if you want to knowa lot more about heres a link to Buckeye triumphs geabox/overdrive how to's its aimed aat TR but much is relevant to all others https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox?rq=overdrive Pete Thanks Pete I saw you making reference to this site in a previous post and had already had a look. Your guidance is greatly appreciated Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 I just did the rear seal on my gt6 last weekend, used a price of angle iron about a foot long with two holes drilled in it and the floor rails as a stop, to get it off and torque up. Lathe cut a 24mm bit of scaffold pole and pushed it on with the flange to get it parallel in the housing and hey presto. I decided to undo the engine mounts and rear gearbox mounts and jack the gearbox up from underneath, seemed to work a treat and plenty of access, gearbox cover definitely needs to come out though and best tackled from on top as said previously. Just make sure the seal goes in flat (scaff tube helped me) good luck. Hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 22 hours ago, haggis said: I just did the rear seal on my gt6 last weekend, used a price of angle iron about a foot long with two holes drilled in it and the floor rails as a stop, to get it off and torque up. Lathe cut a 24mm bit of scaffold pole and pushed it on with the flange to get it parallel in the housing and hey presto. I decided to undo the engine mounts and rear gearbox mounts and jack the gearbox up from underneath, seemed to work a treat and plenty of access, gearbox cover definitely needs to come out though and best tackled from on top as said previously. Just make sure the seal goes in flat (scaff tube helped me) good luck. Hag Hi Hag, thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 Hi Would really appreciate some advice..... Have disconnected the prop shaft and moved it out of the way, as much as I can. Can just with some difficulty get the socket on, but there is no way I can then get a socket wrench on! Any advice as to how to manage this would be appreciated. Would shortening the socket be viable? A previous post made reference to undoing the rear gearbox mount and engine mount bolts.....which if need be I’d like to avoid doing but it needs must! Thanks Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 20 minutes ago, Bazza said: A previous post made reference to undoing the rear gearbox mount and engine mount bolts.....which if need be I’d like to avoid doing but it needs must! The gearbox / engine unit is held to the chassis by two mounts at the rear of the gearbox and the main engine mounts on either side of the block. If you undo the rear mounts, and slacken off the engine mounting bolts to give a degree of movement, you can jack or lever the rear of the box up, without straining or twisting the engine mounts, so as to get straight access to the rear shaft nut. It's as simple as it sounds and believe me you'll have much better access. Just be careful of your fingers on the sharp edges of that tunnel - it can hurt or do a lot of damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 agree undo the rear mount from its support plate its the easiest , undo the nuts above is easy but you wont get the munt to disengage the studs its get under and undo the two bolts mounting to support plate jack the geabox as high as possible watch for rad hose stretch and fan fouls radiator. to get more access drop the prop from the diff and remove rearwards to get wrench access if needed the coupling should pop off on an OD quite easily make sure you get a good purchase on the seal and lever it out , refit /tap it in keeping it flush put some grease on the seal lip and coupling when refitting Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: The gearbox / engine unit is held to the chassis by two mounts at the rear of the gearbox and the main engine mounts on either side of the block. If you undo the rear mounts, and slacken off the engine mounting bolts to give a degree of movement, you can jack or lever the rear of the box up, without straining or twisting the engine mounts, so as to get straight access to the rear shaft nut. It's as simple as it sounds and believe me you'll have much better access. Just be careful of your fingers on the sharp edges of that tunnel - it can hurt or do a lot of damage. Hi Colin Many thanks for the advice. It looks like I’ll be a jacking up the gearbox etc. I was planning to replace the engine mounts which are showing signs of perishing so this would seem an ideal opportunity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: agree undo the rear mount from its support plate its the easiest , undo the nuts above is easy but you wont get the munt to disengage the studs its get under and undo the two bolts mounting to support plate jack the geabox as high as possible watch for rad hose stretch and fan fouls radiator. to get more access drop the prop from the diff and remove rearwards to get wrench access if needed the coupling should pop off on an OD quite easily make sure you get a good purchase on the seal and lever it out , refit /tap it in keeping it flush put some grease on the seal lip and coupling when refitting Pete Many thanks for the advice Pete Hopefully raising the gearbox, will give me enough access to avoid having to disconnect the prop from the diff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Bazza said: Hi Colin Many thanks for the advice. It looks like I’ll be a jacking up the gearbox etc. I was planning to replace the engine mounts which are showing signs of perishing so this would seem an ideal opportunity. Keep a long, thin, but strong screwdriver or pry bar handy; once the gearbox end clears the body slide it in under, between the gearbox rear extension and across the car floor from side to side, to keep it raised. It means you're not resting things on whatever you jacked the gearbox up with, and there's less danger of it moving and slipping off once you start to undo the nut or pull the seal out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 Thanks Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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