Dave the tram Posted August 2, 2019 Report Share Posted August 2, 2019 I've discovered a slight brake fluid leak from the upper 3-way T union. Its the union of the pipe to the servo at the T, the other 2 are from the master and to the rear brakes (late Mk 3). Tried tightening the nut on the union to no avail - in my experince this rarely works or makes it worse. The pipe outer seems to be 4mm but I guess it must be 3/16. Before I take it apart to inspect, the questions are: - Where can I get this short pipe already made up, the usual suppliers seems to sell whole kits. - Is fitting a new pipe with associated unions likely to fix it or should I get a new T joint as well? (but that disturbs the other 2 joints that are ok). - could I get some copper pipe, re-use the union nuts and get my local garage to do the flares on the pipe - or buy a tool and do it myself? Just looking for a way to replace this short pipe to get new joints - any experiences? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 2, 2019 Report Share Posted August 2, 2019 I'm assuming number 309768 in this diagram? First thing I'd do would be check the condition of the threads at the pipe end, if they're worn it may not grip sufficiently however it may be the t-piece itself is worn; can you remove it and check? It may have worn more easily than the metal pipe connector. Even replacing this piece, which is readily available, may save you having to make up a new brake pipe as a combination of the original pipe end plus a new sharp-threaded t-piece may give better grip and make a better seal. It's worth a try. (In my experience you can never get a tap into those sufficiently to retap the threads - they're too shallow) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2019 Report Share Posted August 3, 2019 the flare has probably collapsed , get the local to make up a replacement and try it first over tightening is a big factor in pipe leaks then theres products like loctite hydraulic seal wonderfull stuff. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Got a section of pipe made up at local garage using existing unions, and a new T piece, which I decided not to use as the threads were slack compared to the existing one - surprise, surprise! With carefull tightening until no leaks using the old T peice all went very well. But is there a trick to bleeding that I am missing? Did about 30 pumps at each of the 4 corners, rear first, fluid flowing clear and bubble free. I use silicone fluid. However, the pedal is still soft. First push goes too far down, quick second dab and its higher and firm. Ive read somewhere about bleeding the master cyclinder separately as it can get an airlock that doesnt clear - how? Also, what about the servo - does that need bleeding in any way? Nearly there. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 That may be badly adjusted rear brakes - it takes more than one pump of the pedal to move the cylinders out enough to hit the drums. I'm not being cheeky but have you adjusted the shoes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Dave, I'm sure you know, the order is, driver side rear, passenger side rear, driver side front, last passenger side front. This is because the pipe goes from the master across the bulk head and then on to the slaves. So the passenger side front is nearest to the master cylinder. Silicon does seem to retain air bubbles, I had to bled my clutch 3 times, 3 days apart before it was right. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Colin, Doug - thanks. Assume nothing and no harm being cheeky/teaching to suck eggs etc., I'm still learning. I feel sure my late mk 3 has self adjusting rear brakes - but will recheck this tomorrow. Or perhaps the self adjusting doesn't really work - I had to take up slack in the handbrake a while back, which seems to point to this. As for the order of bleeding, I nearly got it right. I started O/S rear and went clockwise -so got the front the wrong way round. Doubt this matters much. The fact that despite solving the slight leak, then bleeding, and the pedal feels the same, this points to too much slack in the resr adjustment I think. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Hi Dave, if you have adjusted the handbrake without adjusting the shoes, you will have a soft pedal even with self adjusting brakes....Where is the servo mounted? A pal of mine had a similar problem with his GT6 and he put a bleed nipple in a t-piece higher than the servo and problem was solved. Adjust your rear footbrake first and if that does'nt work i will take a photo of my mates set up. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Hi Tony, all I think I'm just missing something here. You say I shouldn't adjust the handbrake without adjusting the shoes, but how do I do that if they are supposed to be self adjusting? The servo is high on the N/S bulkhead, near to the battery. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 If the pedal was good before starting this repair its shouldnt be poorly adjusted shoes. However you can clamp off brake hoses with G clamps to prove this...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 On any handbrake adjustment you need the cable disconnected get optimum shoe adjustment (If auto adj,) or fully locked ( manual adj.) Reconmect the cable to suit a neat fit , preferably with axles at running height not hanging, de ajust the shoes to just clear Any bleeding down stroke quick back stroke slow have bleed tube in jar high above the bleed point stops air suck back in the nipple threads Whilst normal bleed is done without servo vacuum have you tried it with engine running .. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Dave, The late mk3 "self adjusters" are not one of Triumph's better designs. Through use they get bent out of shape, stop working and can't be bent back. Adjustment then becomes removing the drum, turning the ratchet, putting the drum back on, applying the brakes, put the wheel on and spin listening for shoe rubbing. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat...…...…. However, as Johny says, if it worked before then it's something you've done that's messed it up . You may have got air into the servo hydraulic cylinder. There's no bleed nipple for the servo (Why!) so air will have to be bled out from the nearest nipple, the passenger side front. A lot of pumping! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 All useful stuff this - thanks. I do try to ensure fluid stays in the pipe at the nipple but often thought about air getting through the threads. Keeping the jar higher makes sense, as does the slow up-stroke. Will retrain my helper. No, the pedal was like this before the repair, so might be poorly adjusted rear brakes. I'll adjust methodically as per Doug's guidance, then bleed thoroughly in proper sequence with lots to finish with at the passenger side front. I almost certainly got air in the servo as the slight leak was at the short servo to T pipe, which was removed and replaced. That's this morning taken care of! Dave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 As I say clamp the rear hoses (as long as you dont have the wound wire protector type of course) and youll know for sure if drum adjustment is the problem. Can save a lot of work..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 3 hours ago, Dave the tram said: , as does the slow up-stroke. Will retrain my helper. Dave One of Doug'' other forum's i see....;.. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Don't mention his highly expensive massage... chair. Sorry Doug. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Haha, Needed some light relief - bleeding brakes......!!! What's the consensus on running the engine when bleeding the front - do we think this will help or hinder getting any air out of the servo. Trying to get my head around the workings of the servo hydraulics. D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 One of the ways to test the servo is press the brake and start the engine, the pedal should drop. However, It won't make any difference to bleeding, in fact sounds faintly dangerous, (untrained assistant jabbing pedals?) I've never done it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 its generally accepted practice to bleed without vacuum, however to make the process have a more squirt having operational vacuum can move things that decide they are static can help stubborn bleeders. add bit of zest to the flow you cant wreck anything only your pride !!! and my chair cost a LOT more than Dougs pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 31 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: and my chair cost a LOT more than Dougs pete Doug's does more by the sound of though Pete Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 I've had similar issues after bleeding the system and found that jamming the brake pedal down - I used a cut down walking stick under the steering wheel - (which speaks volumes about the demographic of this forum!) for 24 hours cured the soft pedal. I don't know if my problem was down to bubbles in the silicone fluid or sticking caliper seals, but the stick trick sorted it. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 16 minutes ago, Waynebaby said: I used a cut down walking stick under the steering wheel - (which speaks volumes about the demographic of this forum!) Not to mention the height of some of the posters. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: and my chair cost a LOT more than Dougs Yes, Pete has LOADS of money. My chair was second hand, but cleaned up very well. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Why, what on earth was on it... no, maybe we don't need to know. Not sure that I can handle X certificate chairs 😨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Both have a control to pummel every bone in your body and a foot rest that can grab you legs and arch your back like being on a rack Giving you a stretch most programes are a 15 min cycle if you can take it. All high grade torture what more can you want Sorry no selfies Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now