Tanky Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 Hi all, I'm about to strip the Spit as i am not happy with the paint. So i intend to start with the hood, interior next, then the chrome and stuff...I'm going to get the engine and gear box out too.. So I'd like your thoughts on where I should start with the paint. I've just bought an orbital and palm sander what grit should I start on and end up on? I'd love the benefit of someone else's experience before I start.....Slightly panicking! Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 Hi Charlie. I am in the same position. Started with the bonnet underside. Used Starchem Synstrip to clean off the underseal/schutz/hammerite/original paint/undercoat. Them treated it with tbe POR15 system which I had bought for something else and thought I might as well use it up. The top side is a mess but I don't want to use stripper on this as there is filler under it somewhere. I have bought a Makita d/a sander which I will use with mirka style mesh sanding discs. I also bought a mirka style hand sander along with the tube to connect to a vacuum cleaner. It also fits the makita with an adapter. The idea being to keep the dust generated to a minimum. I will start with 80 or 120 grit to get the paint off and reduce as needed. I might even try a 3m stripping disc but beleive it may be a bit vicious. I think the trick is gentle and don't dig into the metalwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: I think the trick is gentle and don't dig into the metalwork. Yep - be careful of scoring it. More gently may take more time, but it causes less damage. Paint and filler can cover up a lot, but sometimes not all, and the little digs and lines still show through some paint finishes. Take it easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 3, 2019 Report Share Posted October 3, 2019 ... also, a good face mask is essential. Don't use the cheap paper things. A 3m 6200 type mask off fleabay along with a set of particulate filters will cost about £25.00. Get one, your health is worth more than the car. A 6200 kit will come with vapour filters, save them for painting (along with some spares) Get the big pink things for dust and debris. Make sure that all the components are compatible before ordering!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-6200-Premium-Half-Face-Spray-Paint-Dust-Mask-Respirator-Filter-7-in-1/253967812080?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-5-packs-3M-2091-P100-Particulate-Filter-for-3M-6200-6800-7502-Respirato/202766174881?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-3M-6051-A1-Organic-Gas-Vapour-Particulate-Filters-6000-Series/264465077096?epid=22018387681&hash=item3d9358d368:g:rQMAAOSwcBVc7WXn Weblinks for guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted October 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 Great advice, thanks. just bought one. Do I have to buy automotive sanding discs for my sanders or can I just use the discs that came with the sander? I have lots of wet and dry sheets but not for my sander. Does that make sense? Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 4, 2019 Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 6 minutes ago, Tanky said: Do I have to buy automotive sanding discs for my sanders or can I just use the discs that came with the sander? I have lots of wet and dry sheets but not for my sander. Does that make sense? Charlie That will depend on the brand of sander. Some of them supply discs simply because they have to, or to keep the price low, and they're not the best quality. They may do as a starter but not for the final finish. I'd buy good ones from an Autofactor close to you, or online, just to be sure they'll do the job and not fall apart at the first touch. Unfortunately it is usually trial and error. I have all this to do shortly when the dark cold days arrive so will compare notes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted October 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 Great, let's swap photos! Cheers Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 4, 2019 Report Share Posted October 4, 2019 Mirka abrasives have a good reputation. I got the unbranded 'copies' to try, from the spring Practical Classics Show. Not tried them yet, but like Colin, will set to work over the late autumn. My Makita takes 150mm disks with the velcro style backing which are pretty universal. 125mm are also popular. I will be posting stuff on my restoration/general c*ckup thread in due course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 Hi, It's quite hard to generalise because there are so many variables. One key matter is whether you are planning a strip back to bare metal across all the work areas (?). If so then the approach is quite simple; paint strip to remove the bulk of the old paint then 80 grit discs on a DA (dual action) sander to work off the rest. As for brands, most Pros use Mirka, Indasa or 3M. Think in terms of one disc per square foot (ish) on old well seasoned paint. Wet and Dry paper is only for hand use - all discs for a DA are dry. Could I ask whether your sanders are DA rather than simple rotary/oscillating? If not DA then the work will take forever. On a DA even the relative coarseness of 80grit will not attack the base metal to any great extent. Are yo planning to repaint the car yourself? I've been taught over the last couple of years that the key issue in refinishing is getting the first coat of primer-filler on thick, really thick - sags/runs/orange peel/dust inclusions are not to be seen as a problem. I mention this because in the past I've spent too much time getting the base metal and any filled areas 'just so' when I could have just let the PF do the work for me. So stripping and first filling can be approached in a quick a effective (almost rough and ready) way and the fine grain attention begins once the PF is on. Regards Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Chris - Iagree. I was told by a respected restorer to strip back to bare metal, rust convert where needed (bilthamber etc) and apply 2k primer immediately using a gloss paint 4" roller. On no account spray 2k without an air fed face mask ,as the 2k will damage your lungs. Then consider repairs, runs,filler etc at leisure, spot 2k priming again where needed. The converter deals with any rust but the 2k makes the surface waterproof whereas the likes of zinc primer absorb at holds moisture which causes blistering over time. I know, look at the state of my bonnet on the 'nose to tail' thread as this is exactly the mistake that was made with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 How about 2k dust if flatting it dry Badwolf? Never having used 2k it was just me thinking? (bad move i know) Or is it just when sprayed. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Tony - I am told that a standard vapour mask/filter for roller application and a particulate mask/filter for sanding cured 2k is ok. The danger appears to be breathing in the uncured paint molecules from the atmosphere when spraying which then coat the inside on the lungs etc, then cure, with obvious disasterous results. I must stress that this how I plan to do mine, but I have not tried this yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 There's a YouTube Video of a guy spraying a Spitfire Boot lid , no protective clothing apart from a pair of rubber gloves and a face mask ( not airfed ) spraying metallic 2 pack . He does call himself the Incompetent Restorer though . Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 I would have been ashamed to post that video. Never mind his own protection, what about his poor dog? He would have been better with a paint brush. As for not removing the lock !!! If my attempts turn out like that they will never see this forum!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Well after watching that video, I now know what not to do! Thanks for all the very helpful advice Triumphers. So I plan to rub it down as much as I need to to get a lovely flat surface as I have been advised that I don't need to go back to metal. Although I have some filler and a couple of blister spots, so these will get the full treatment.... That's a really good point about letting the primer do some of the work, I shall definitely take that on board. I'm not going to paint it myself, I'll send it off to have it done professionally. I just bought a rotary sander and a palm sander from B&Q as I didn't know there was a difference. it might take me a while, but I have all winter ... Alas the underside of the bonnet is thick with stone chip of some sort, so I will try and find some of that Synstrip. Having removed the interior completely, ( if anyone wants a really good black interior, drop me a line), there are drill holes everywhere, Should these be welded or is there another way of dealing with these? as I'm not great at welding! Anyway, thanks again guys. Cheers Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Charlie - You can get Synstryp off fleabay in 'gallon' containers. You have to confirm that you are a professional user with some sellers. Its vicious stuff, what nitromorse was before the health & safety people ruined it. Gloves, overalls, eye protection and don't let it dry out. It will shift most paints, underseal, filler and disolve adhesive joints.Great stuff but time consuming to use. Be careful doing the bits under the wheel arches where they meet the bonnet as there is not much room to get in and a danger of getting the stripper on the bit of skin the gloves and overalls miss. I taped over the join between my marigold gloves and overalls with masking tape, and wash the overalls after you are finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Great, thanks.....by the way, I'm a Health and Safety Officer....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 H & S officers are probably the worse people for looking after themselves!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Poacher turned Gamekeeper.....:) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 30 minutes ago, Tanky said: Poacher turned Gamekeeper.....:) Love it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 Well guys I wimped out when doing my GT6 and used http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/how-we-do-it/ So much easier just cut out any bits and bobs you don't want, weld in new bits and give it to them, and remember the primer is on ALL THE BODYy even the bits you CAN'T see, It was just awkward reappllying some of the seam sealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 Looks great and the important thing is... its done, which is more than I can say for mine. Seems to get stalled at every turn at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 15, 2019 Report Share Posted October 15, 2019 13 hours ago, Guppy916 said: Well guys I wimped out when doing my GT6 and used http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/how-we-do-it/ That looks superb. I don't think I've anyone near to where I live that does that kind of work. I've a Herald tub that has to go for for sandblasting later on this week (it won't fit in my cabinet) and the instructions are to blast seams, floors and other hard to reach areas but leave the main centre areas of the rear wings - I'm worried about rippling or other visible damage and will strip those myself once it returns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 Colin pop it in a van tell the boss your taking her away for the weekend jump onto a ferry to Liverpool, then up to Preston & you'll be back in time for work Monday http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/contact-us/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 I'll be in Penrith at the end of the month (Fylde Guitars again probably) but in a Freelander and definitely with no trailer on. Last time I was in Preston it was only because the boss was navigating me to Westmoreland from York, so you can tell how good her navigation skills are. She might not even notice a trailer.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now