How long can I leave the coolant system empty?

[TRevver]

I’ve drained the coolant system, including the block, of my Vitesse in order to have the manifolds coated.

The coolant system has been empty for about a month as the company carrying out the coating mucked it up - so they had to go back. Now it looks like it’s going to be quite a while until I finally get the parts back due to “lockdown.”

Does it matter if the coolant system (including engine block) is left empty?

The car is in a dehumidified garage where the temperature doesn’t get below 10C.

Thanks.

[Paul H]

Don’t forget you can drive to go for a walk 

Paul 

[dave.vitesse]

48 minutes ago, TRevver said:

I’ve drained the coolant system, including the block, of my Vitesse in order to have the manifolds coated.

The coolant system has been empty for about a month as the company carrying out the coating mucked it up - so they had to go back. Now it looks like it’s going to be quite a while until I finally get the parts back due to “lockdown.”

Does it matter if the coolant system (including engine block) is left empty?

The car is in a dehumidified garage where the temperature doesn’t get below 10C.

Thanks.

The engine should be be OK. However, the water pump seals may suffer. It could start leaking once the coolant has been replaced and the engine started. There is no way of knowing before hand.

Dave

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, TRevver said:

Does it matter if the coolant system (including engine block) is left empty?

It won't do any harm by being drained, but will obviously dry out - this means hoses, the filler cap seal etc may become brittle and crack, depending on their composition, and you may also get flakes of rust drying out and scabbing off the inside of the system. When you come to refill flush it out well, and keep an eye on the hoses for the first while until you're sure they haven't suffered. 

[TRevver]

Thanks,

 

I was going to change the hoses anyway and will keep an eye on the water pump.👍

[Neil Clark]

Does flushing get the rust colour out of the system too?  

[Colin Lindsay]

Yes.

[Neil Clark]

Thanks.  Mine has three entries to the engine and I've never done this before.  Which would be best to put the hose into please Colin?

[Colin Lindsay]

All of them. You need to flush it from every direction, backwards and forwards, to dislodge as much debris and rubbish as possible. Rad hoses, waterpump housing hoses, heater hoses (with the valve open of course!) get the water flowing through and you'll be sure the system is cleaned out. If you're confident in removing the engine block drain tap on the side of the block, that's another spot for debris to emerge. I don't use any kind of flushing agent but then the engine and rad are relatively new after reconditioning, (that photo was the rusty water from the TR7 when I bought it!) but I flush, fill and empty a few times and then finally fill with clean water only, run to normal temperature, allow to cool again, and drain again. The final fill is with the antifreeze mixture.

[Neil Clark]

Thanks Colin

[Pete Lewis]

there are a good few  flushing products on sale but for years i have used simple washing soda crystals  

make a good strong mix and run for a couple of  days  then flush completely ,  cheap and very effective

it can dissolve alloy parts but youre not leaving it in for days

pete

[Clive]

To be clear (!) flushing needs a good old fashioned hosepipe. And I would definitely take the drain tap right out, it should unscrew (the tap may open, or may not I wouldn't even try)

Undo mas many hoses, even if only at one end, as possible. Especially heater hoses.

Push the hosepipe into the bottom of the rad, so it pushes water up through the rad. Your hand should be enough to create enough of a seal to the rad pipes. Let the water flow out, repeat a few times.

Onto teh heater, open the valve, flush back and forth several times, there will probably be loads of crud in there. Sadly, because the heater is a bypass design, it means that it is impossible t flush a blockage out of the matrix, but it can help improve the heater efficiency. 

Onto the actual engine. When you take the block drain plug out, water should be in there. If nothing comes out, poke some wire etc in there and wiggle about. It may be best to remove the thermostat and temp refit the housing. Pop the hose in there, and water should flow out the block drain. You may need more poking about. Then check the hosepipe is cut dead square at the end. You can then press that hard against the block drain to reverse flush. Keep swapping teh hosepipe around until no more sediment.

Not sure of heated manifolds, but you must have an under-manifold pipe? they are notorious as there is a very small hole in there, so flush that through every opening.

Reassemble once happy all is as clean as possible. I would then chuck a flushing agent in there (i like holts speedflush) run then drain, fill with water, run briefly, drain and fill with 30% blue antifreeze. I have been using ECP ownbrand antifreeze, in 1L bottles. Convenient, and generally local for internet order pickup using their ongoing discount codes. They may even sell rad flush stuff.

(and don't forget to refit the thermostat, check it is an 82 degree one while you are there)

[Dick Twitchen]

3 minutes ago, clive said:

Not sure of heated manifolds,

Cleaning this out was a major job on mine.  Fitting a new heater valve did not not have the expected result because the manifold was chocked  up.  A hose on it's own did not suffice and ended up using an coat hangar to loosen things up and then it cleared with a final blast of compressed air; the resultant mess from those two was a salutary reminder to have covered the front of the engine bay with a plastic sheet!

[dave.vitesse]

Always take the thermostat out so you can then flush into the head/engine. Flush the rad from top and then the bottom. Drain by removing the hoses. Make sure you undo/remove the drain tap/plug on the block, manifold side. Flush out the heater. If it is a Vitesse with heated inlet manifold then flush this out. BUT do not try to remove the large bolt at the heater end as they normally  shear off leaving the threaded part in the manifold, Carefully clean its ports out with a piece of stiff wire.

Dave