Adrian Saunders Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Would any of you kind souls be able to tell me the position of the bolt hole in the chassis bracket for GT6 rotoflex. Anyone got side or end elevation drawings? WSM only has top and a rear but it’s obscured. The Vitesse one gives a vertical dim from the top of the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Just realised that it’s difficult to measure off the chassis in this area due to the curve of the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 It’s a right sod. We actually made a jig to transfer the measurements from a Roto chassis to a non-Roto one in the end. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 I used the wsm, but found some bits of the chassis were poorly jigged from the factory, notably the rear towers. About 8mm different where welded! The actual shock mounts seemed to be correct, so wondering if that is what was used to jig the chassis, welded wherever it touched. But the factory chassis holes seemed reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hmmm. On my car’s N/S, the lower wishbone hole at the chassis appears to be 1/2” higher and 1/4” smaller (chassis CL to hole) than the O/S. I had a checking fixture made to nominal centers and it’s a mile off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 And the diff mount studs centres are about 1/4” small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 I removed one side of the diff mount at a time and both mounting studs are off centre to the diff front mount bracket. They look the same so I don’t think it’s chassis damage. Anyone else noticed this error? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Probably best not to look! But the importance of the diff being correctly mounted cannot be understated. The rear spring hangs off it, and that is the upper wishbone for the suspension. If that is not level and perpendicular to the chassis all sorts of problems will arise. I am actually rather nervous about investigating why one rear wheel sits a little more upright than the other, despite swapping the spring around and general measurements being correct. The car handles OK, the alignment is correct, and it all works well enough. But there is always that question.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 56 minutes ago, clive said: Probably best not to look! But the importance of the diff being correctly mounted cannot be understated. The rear spring hangs off it, and that is the upper wishbone for the suspension. If that is not level and perpendicular to the chassis all sorts of problems will arise. I am actually rather nervous about investigating why one rear wheel sits a little more upright than the other, despite swapping the spring around and general measurements being correct. The car handles OK, the alignment is correct, and it all works well enough. But there is always that question.... Clive, I think that the rear mounts for the diff effectively datum it and the fronts comply but, even so, the front mount centres are wrong to drawing and so are the wishbone hole centres. I also agree with it probably working fine but as you say, always the question. The tie rods are within a few thou’ of each other and the rear cambers are -0.6 & -0.7. The track is 1/4” too narrow but I’ve been able to set the wheels parallel to the front. So annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Always wondered why my Vitesse nearside rear wheel looks further under the arch than the offside one,maybe during the tub off process it got put back off centre. It is a MK 1 converted to CV so i had to weld the wishbone brackets on,i used the WSM i think from memory.I know this won`t affect the look of the wheels. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig113 Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 as others have said the chassis's are not spot on, i've just welded a new set of rotoflex mounts onto a spit/gt6 chassis. i spent a long time measuring gaps etc and then decided on the middle ground for final welding. it doesn't help when the rear upright marked E on your picture is out by about 5mm...... edit:-also make sure you weld them with the polybush spacer installed as the ones i got wern't the correct width and had to be massaged. paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 10 hours ago, clive said: I am actually rather nervous about investigating why one rear wheel sits a little more upright than the other, despite swapping the spring around and general measurements being correct. The car handles OK, the alignment is correct, and it all works well enough. But there is always that question.... Just put a long shaft on that side.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Just put a long shaft on that side.... Hmm, rotoflex....(with CV's, on a spitfire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Just put a long shaft on that side.... Oooh, matron. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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