Kiajon Posted July 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2020 For the first time since 2006 my little Spitfire 1500 is road legal! She passed her 2nd attempt at the MOT with no advisories! A huge thank you to everyone who has offered me advice and guidance. I’ll be asking lots more questions as I know classic car ownership is a bit like painting the Forth bridge, you never really finish it! But for now I’m going to drive her and get a better idea of what I need improve/change/repair/replace! One quick question, is it worth fitting a wider radiator? At the moment it’s all standard at the mo but I know that she runs a bit warm. I’ve seen wider radiators on fleabay either aluminium ones for £110 (way to cheap to be any good, surely) or an ‘uprated radiator’ for £150 - see attached images - is it worth it? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 before you dive into deep pocket fixes get a thermometer and check the engine and rad temperatures , many replace all the big myth costs then find the voltage stabiliser the thermostat or the sender unit are giving you warm gauge readings , always do the basics first , what makes you think its running hot ???? just the gauge or something else ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 What Pete said! The 1500 was designed to run a bit warmer than the earlier cars - mostly for emissions, though efficiency also benefits - and the full-width radiator was down-sized on Mk1 Spitfires because they ran too cool. Even if your gauge is reading right, do give the cooling system a thorough flush and check. If your block is full of silt or your pump is missing half its blades then no amount of extra radiator will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 49 minutes ago, NonMember said: The 1500 was designed to run a bit warmer than the earlier cars - mostly for emissions, though efficiency also benefits - and the full-width radiator was down-sized on Mk1 Spitfires because they ran too cool. Same with Heralds; many have retro-fitted the full-width radiator, myself included, only to find that at low 'pottering' speeds it never really gets warm enough to warrant it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Wide rad is well worth it, the 1500s work the oil hard and anything you can do to keep the temp more moderate is well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiajon Posted July 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Thanks for the responses, I’m happy not spend money on the rad, there’s other stuff that’ll happily rinse my wallet (wife, kids!) The gauge is showing a bit warm. I gave the system a flush when I first got it running but having read up more (on here mainly) I realised I didn’t get do it right so that’ll be redone first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Is the high gauge reading produced when driving or in traffic? The reports on here concerning the alloy rads have been generally favourable (my experience also although for different model) with the only grumble being the angle of the top connection which doesnt line up well with the engine one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 yes 1500 could/should have a 88c stat specified as standard, the gauges and sender do not change from a 82c spec so a 1500 will read /show higher readings because it is 6dg C hotter than all others so dont jump to the wrong conclusion here . if its between Normal and Hot its probably fine . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 First of all is my 1970 Vitesse fitted with two horns ? I can only find one on the passenger side which is working when it's wired up directly to the battery. I'm getting zero when using the horn push. The screws attaching the steering wheel are chewed up as you'll see, so, that would prove difficult to remove. Is there a trial and error sequence of tests you can do to find where the fault is on the horn ? When this horn is fixed she will be road legal, so as you can imagine the hooter problem is very frustrating. ....Neil Russell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 the chewed screws only hold the handwheel to the centre hub to remove the stg wheel prise the horn push out its a push in fit the horns are fed with a 12v live . the horns then run and earth up to the column and its contact slip ring this is connected to the stg wheel with a sprung plastic/brass pencil which runs on the slip ring (inside the switch cowl) these fail or can be missing completly there are two lengths used depends on the stg wheel hub. the earth continues down the stg column and there is a wire link to pass the UJ down near the rack these wires can fracture the rack is on rubber mounts so it should have a earth from the rack greaser to the engine front plate to complete the tortuos earth route if you run a temp earth from the horn terminal it should give you a toot the horns do fail due to water ingress and age pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 That will only remove the wheel from the boss (the metal part that attaches to the steering column) Just lift the central hornpush out (screwdriver may be required) and inside should be a big nut securing the wheel to the coulumn. I foregt what size socket is required, but you many not need to remove it. There should be a "pencil" in there, to attach the hornpush to the brass ring (under the boss, which should have a hole drilled through for the pencil). The pencil is actually more like a bit of Bic biro, clear plastic, brass contact at each end connected by a spring. A few quid to buy if needed. However, from memory it is a purple wire that is teh horn wire. So if you rummage under the se=teering column, you should find it. Pull the connector apart, and try earthing the horn wire. If that doesn't work, check elsewhere. There should be 2 horns, but don't worry if only one is there. You can check the horn itself works by connecting it to battery live and earth. It should be loud and clear. Many simply don't work. That would be my starting points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Its good to look at the free to download w/shop manual wiring diagram and circuit info👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Looking at the push button contact there is a lump of solder on it. These things are expensive. I'm wondering wether to replace it. ...Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Just now, VixenPPP said: Looking at the push button contact there is a lump of solder on it. These things are expensive. I'm wondering wether to replace it. ...Neil Was there a pencil in there? A pic inside the boss will help us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Yes I have the pencil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 The pencil needs to contact that brass (with a bit of solder) contact when it is through the hole. Sometimes people solder a wire from the hornpush to the pencil if it doesn't line up nicely, seen that a few times. You should get teh horn to work by using a screwdriver to short the brass ring (hidden behind the boss) to te boss. If nothing happens, I would check the horn itself works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 doesnt look like there was a pencil contact tube fitted. Its a non standard steering wheel but I wonder if that slight recess in the boss inner slot is where it might go? Its part number 142534 (thats the usual length of 2.6" and you might need the longer version at 3.4") however as Clive says check through the system first to see what else is wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 says by the side of a pic that he has the pencil , a look at its condition would help us there is no need to centre pop the nut there are two AF sizes used 15/16" and 1 1/8" AF from memory. if you need to remove the stg wheel leave the nut on loose and when seated grab the wheel and give it a good waggle it will pop up the splines Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 uppp didnt see that! Well seems like some proper electrical fault finding is required next👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Hope this helps. Thank you anyway. I'll report back. ...Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 and on refitting the sprung brass brush rubs the slip ring the soldered end abutts the horn push why because when upside down the solder gets worn off and it all flies apart Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Also you want the brass pin to slide up and down in the plastic tube not the plastic tube to slide up and down in the steering wheel boss... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 Hi all...I have a new pencil brush and slip ring from Paddocks. Using an old bearing puller I've managed to take the steering wheel off and prise out the old slip ring. It looks like it needs to be dismantled further in order to connect the purple wire on the new slip ring. I'm not sure how to go about this. It has only one horn, I can see where the second one would have been. Finally, i've read the horn has its own relay switch. I can't see one. .... Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 having a relay realy depends on model year not all have one but you will have a fuse in the crappy fuse box feeding the mauves .purple wires for horn and interior light Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 Hi all, I'm a little further with the horn fault. As advised, I connected a jumper lead onto the shaft itself inside the engine bay to the negative terminal on the battery the horn works on pushing the horn button, also by taking a wire from the the clamp next to the clutch pedal then through the bulkhead and onto earth on the steering rack, again the horn works. I can't detect any bridging wire on the uj. The manual says this is soldered on. It seems quite inaccessible. Is there an easier way of bridging the uj ? ......Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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