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No spark after fitting magnetronic electronic ignition to Mk2 Vitesse


T3 California
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Help please to forum newbie.

After 20 years of owning my Mk2 Vitesse I decided to fit a magnetronic electronic ignition system with lumenition matched coil, new distributor cap, and new club HT leads, all bought from the club shop.

I studied the u tube videos and was convinced it would take about 30 minutes. 5 hours later I have no spark.

Its is fitted with a lucas 22d dizzy and was working just fine before the swop.

I had to cut off the peg as per the instructions on the base plate and got a good flush fitting for the adapter plate.

Attached the module, now here is the first problem. I was unable to get a gap of 1.5mm for the magnetic timing disc , it was much too tight. There is some vertical play in the dizzy but little side to side play.

Everything I tried to lift the magnetic timing disc resulted in the rotor arm not bedding down properly.

The other dilemma was , I was unsure if the Mk2 is fitted with a ballast protector already. The existing coil measures 3 ohms. I can see no white wires with vague pink strips. It had a new loom in 1995 and I am not sure if they used the factory colours. So I fitted the ballast protector that came with the new coil.

I also fitted a new distributor cap and club leads, having used the old leads as a template to refit in correct order.

Tried to start it up , turns over (new battery) well but won't start. No spark from HT leads.

Took it to bits, the label on the module has scrapped off as the timing disc is too close.

Swopped back the old points , dizzy cap , leads and coil, still won't start and still no spark!

I have been through the troubleshooting guide , which does not say what to do if the timing disc is too tight to the module.

I wonder if there is a thinner adapter plate?

So I now have a car with no spark with either the new or the old ignition system!

Any suggestions gratefully received

BW

Tom

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Tom,

Have you a multi meter? If you have a ballasted system you will have 6 volts with the ignition turned on, then 12 volts briefly as you turn the key to start, then 6 volts running. If you have non-ballasted you will have 12 volts before, starting and running. 3 ohm coil suggest non-ballasted system, ballasted are 1.5 ohms. 

Do you mean a 1.5mm gap between ring and sensor? Don't think smaller gap would be a problem unless they're touching! Not sure why you're trying to raise the ring? 

If you're suspecting HT leads or dizzy cap wrong, go for the HT output from the coil, if no spark here it's the electronics

Most common issue with electronics not working is an earth issue on the plate, it's got to be there!

 

Doug

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Thanks for the reply.

Yes I have a multimeter and will try the voltage test, have checked continuity and swopped the spade connectors for better quality items.

Yes I mean 1.5mm gap between the ring (magnetic timing disc) and sensor (module). It is touching and has scrapped off the label on the sensor which is why I have been attempting to raise up a bit, without success.

I don't understand why I have no spark after refitting all the old points and rest of the kit from leads to coil.

Earthing wire insitu

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to add No Vitesse ever had a 1.5 ohm ballast coil system  a straight 3 ohm coil fed from the ign switch , no other complications  you must not use  a ballast with a 3 ohm coil

if you have no spark and confirm you have 12v at the coil +ve  use a short jump wire to flick on a earth , the coil should spark , if thats produces a spark then the  old points are incorrectly fitted and either unable to earth or are permanently earthed 

i cant advise on the lumenition , i use one and its fine in a lucas dizzy on the  2000

is your lumenition kit part numbered magmkT005  ??

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Have re-instated the old points and coil again (third time).

Accurately set the points, and it is running again quite sweetly.

Seems to work better with the old coil,

Checked the voltage on the old coil, 12v while running on the positive side, 6v on the negative. Not sure what that implies, whether ballasted or not?

Looks like I might have fried the coil and the electronic ignition, hard to know how though.

Not keen on putting it back in the car for a third time to test them.

Anyone know how to bench test these units???

Thanks

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Reply to Pete

Thanks for getting back, I did not see your post until after my latest reply.

Yes part number MAG MKT005

You are right , it was my incompetent, hurried refitting of the points that would not let the car start with the old kit.

So its just the electronic ignition and new coil that are potentially the problem.

Looks like £150 down the drain

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6 minutes ago, T3 California said:

Have re-instated the old points and coil again (third time).

Accurately set the points, and it is running again quite sweetly.

Seems to work better with the old coil,

Checked the voltage on the old coil, 12v while running on the positive side, 6v on the negative. Not sure what that implies, whether ballasted or not?

Looks like I might have fried the coil and the electronic ignition, hard to know how though.

Not keen on putting it back in the car for a third time to test them.

Anyone know how to bench test these units???

Thanks

If it’s like Accuspark if the magnet touches the outer and you run the car you will fry the unit . Equally with the Accuspark if you wire incorrectly you will fry the unit . Don’t ask me how I know 

Paul 

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12v in is correct  6v out is not of any real clue   the coil should run ok whatever point electron you use   what is the ohms of the new coil ????

you could rig up a feed  to teh coil etc and have an old plug to see a spark  you just swipe a magnet over the unit it will switch and as it breaks the coil will discharge 

you must retime the ignition when you swap electronics and mech points  as the trigger point /angles are likely to be very different 

or you get pinking or wonder who has nicked the horses 

Pete

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20 hours ago, T3 California said:

Everything I tried to lift the magnetic timing disc resulted in the rotor arm not bedding down properly.

Two things: be careful with that as it caused me a few embarrassing breakdowns (in front of BBC camera crews too!), when the rotor arm fell off repeatedly due to an ill-fitting collar preventing it from seating properly. You may think it's seated but once the engine gets up to revs, off it goes again usually wrecking the cap too.

Secondly: can you post photos? We may be able to spot something that you haven't seen.

 

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Can't do photos as have re instated the old points and coil.

Certainly the 20yr old rotor arm is a bit loose and I have ordered a new red one from the shop.

No one has come up with a solution/suggestion to the plastic magnetic timing disc scrapping the top of sensor module yet. I would be grateful for any ideas as I feel this is the most obvious fault that has not been addressed. Maybe the new rotor arm will make a difference.

Since putting back the points it idles better but has a low rev flat spot that suddenly kicks back in.

Thanks for all your considerations

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i wonder if there is some problem with the base plate rather than the rotor/disc height position

it should just push down to the cam top shoulder  and rotor arm fits on top  if you raise the disc the rotor will be unstable/loose

have you double checked it really is a 22d6 stamped on the base casting ???

 

Pete

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there is lots of lead memory in the head so i would not use any addatives unless youre paranoid about valve recess, we have not seen any occur

leave it till the head does need to come off (if ever) then have exhaust inserts added till then  use a 97+ ron fuel  and drive it 

use as close to factory spec as possible without pinking 

Pete

 

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10 minutes ago, T3 California said:

Definitely a 22D marked with number  41273 on the side, advance 11deg.

I took the base plate out and re-seated it but made no difference.

What degree of timing retardation do people find works, if using castrol valve master plus?

On my mk2 vitesse I have Accuspark and found the best setting is approx 15dg anything below this I found flat spots on accelerating . I don’t use additives and use Tesco Momentum when I can 

Paul 

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