Jump to content

Rough Running


jamesdennison

Recommended Posts

A part from a good scraper, ring compressor, torque wrench, oil can feeler gauges a can of brake cleaner

To degrease stuff its just normal diy garage tools and a strong bench

if new pistons then a bucket of hot water to heat the pistons to get the gudgeon pins in.

 

keep cam follower and pushrods paired up

 

 

 

where are you based , has anyone in the area a hoist to hire?

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

E mail the staffs AO see who can lend a hand

 

 

Jubly clips can work but best to wrap shim stock around the piston to smooth out the clip clamps

 

ebay shows loads of proper sealey ones for £10 so get one , not worth cutting corners and wrecking a ring

 

The floor is fine , its knee, s that restrict floor crawling and low level journal twiddling

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or pop to the shropshire meet on wednesday. Horseshoes Uckington. between wellington and shrewsbury

 

I did come along last summer when you were in Little Wenlock - really friendly group.  Wednesday's are currently no good for me as my wife is doing a Uni course and I have the kids on my own every Wednesday.  Do you still meet twice a month? (or did I imagine that!).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still thinking this through.

 

Only no.4 seems to be causing problems.  Do I only replace the rings in no.4 and leave the other pistons alone on the basis that they're bedded in and working or is this bad practice?

 

I would rather do the job properly as the car is a keeper, but no point creating extra work / expense if not needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

its best to remove as a pair, trying to re align  an engine to the  in situ gearbox can be very frustrating and much up a bit down a bit and much faffing around .

 

you will need to remove the bonnet to take the assy out, and put a strong board across the screen 

 

best if the hoist has a adjustable spreader beam 

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No doubt what the problem was - see pic. of piston no.4.  No.3 also broken.

 

Massive thanks to Dave Embery and Bob for their help with getting the engine out and stripped.  It makes it so much easier to have the support of people who know what they're doing.  

 

The bores are unmarked so can hopefully get away with new pistons and a hone rather than a rebore, but we reckon the bits of ring found their way to the journals on no. 4 so a crank regrind is needed.

 

Going to take the block and crank into a local machine shop but plan to do the rebuild with help from Shropshire Group.

 

My friends think I'm mad, but thoroughly enjoyable task so far!

post-472-0-56410600-1448735263_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Totally stripped now and well through the task of meticulously cleaning and bagging / labelling everything.  My hands look like I've been wrestling a hedgehog but quite satisfying so far.  Hoping to get the block and crank in for machining later this week + gearbox over to Mike Papworth (seems daft not to while its's off).

 

... and of course while there is no engine in the car I can get at bits of chassis that I've never seen before so bit of stripping and painting on the cards.

 

No rush, but going to crack on while I still have motivation.

 

 

post-472-0-15337600-1448918858_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

James,

Assembly will be much less hard on the hands than disassembly, but please consider vinyl gloves and barrier cream. Professionals will use both these days, and the gloves are remarkably robust.

For really dirty/rough jobs, semi disposable, close-fitting cotton gloves, reinforced with plastic or rubber cost make skin injuries unlikely.

 

I know its "H&S" but its worthwhile.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

James,

Assembly will be much less hard on the hands than disassembly, but please consider vinyl gloves and barrier cream. Professionals will use both these days, and the gloves are remarkably robust.

For really dirty/rough jobs, semi disposable, close-fitting cotton gloves, reinforced with plastic or rubber cost make skin injuries unlikely.

 

I know its "H&S" but its worthwhile.

John

 

Pack of 100 disposable gloves just to right of shot!

 

(3rd pack of 100 in a couple of months!)

 

Hands will still  be bu%%ered on Monday morning though I am sure.

 

I'd like to get the bottom end rebuilt and back on the car with the gearbox by tomorrow evening.... (oily and scarred) fingers crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great day.  Massive thanks to Simon, Dave, Dave and Bill for all their help today.

 

10am Garage full of engine bits

 

11am Things starting to rotate and move in the block

 

12noon Its looking like an engine

 

2pm its looking like a gearbox and engine

 

3pm Its in the car!!!

 

4pm Head on

 

6pm out of time ... and I do need a few more bits but the hard work is done.

 

Brilliant - thanks TSSC

 

 

post-472-0-93247900-1454787808_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-70749100-1454787813_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-22394600-1454787819_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-07150900-1454787825_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-69988000-1454787830_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-64988700-1454787837_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-32998800-1454787842_thumb.jpg

post-472-0-19368200-1454787847_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

SHE LIVES!!!!!!

 

Massive thank to Dave Embrey for lending a hand this morning.

 

I was certain the timing was out on the rebuilt engine but really struggling single handed.

 

We ended up removing and rotating the distributor gears to get approximate static timing.  Once started, after a few tense minutes that seemed like hours waiting for the oil light to go out it was fairly straight forward to set timing dynamically and tune up the carbs.  A bit of fresh petrol helped too.

 

Tomorrow's job is replacing the gearbox tunnel (need to drill the holes out) and getting the interior back in.  Then a steady few hundred miles before retorquing the head and oil change.

 

Happy days!

 

Watch out for a write up in the courier!

 

No way would I have got this far without support from TSSC Shropshire and the help on here - thanks guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Bit of a thread revival.

 

I've put c. 350 miles on the new engine and all seems to be going well.  Mainly sub 3.5k rpm with a couple of forays up to 4k.

 

Anyway, I've read and been told that at this mileage I need to retorque the head.  Not a big job .... but is this necessary?

 

If you read back a few pages you'll see that I had a nut fail when I torqued the head first time and I don't want this to happen again.

 

The nuts I'm now using are from a different supplier so should be ok but I'd rather leave alone if I can.

 

If the answer is yes I do need to retorque, do I slacken off a fraction first before tightening of just tighten?

 

Cheers folks

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...