Carb rebuild kit

[Ian Smith]

Triumph manifold for SU single carb side-draught type  currently going through 'Bay.  I'd probably look at an HS4, or equivalent. 

Cheers,

Ian.

 

PS, Have a look on FB marketplace. 

[NonMember]

4 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

Triumph manifold for SU single carb side-draught type  currently going through 'Bay

Without a link to see what it is, I wonder whether that's relevant. The OP has a 1200 with a 6-port head. The most likely SU manifold for a Triumph is a Toledo / Dolomite 1300 one.

[Colin Lindsay]

This looks like the one; price has been reduced but I think it's still quite high.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133893968131?hash=item1f2cb3d103:g:vjwAAOSwBX5hWbW1

[NonMember]

Yep, that's a Toledo one. The seller says it "came with" his Spitfire - certainly never a factory fit to a Spitfire. And, as I suspected, no good to the OP of this thread.

[jagnut66]

As an aside I have a spare 1300 engine from a spitfire (Canley Classics confirmed this by the engine number when I made an unleaded head inquiry) which has a similar side entry inlet manifold to that. 

However, as above, no use for my 1200 engine, as it won't fit it.

The 1300 engine was too good to miss price-wise but it is only a standby, in case the 1200 ever develops a terminal (rebuild required) problem.

Best wishes,

Mike.

[jagnut66]

As an additional bit of trivia, the 948cc, 1098cc and 1275cc A series engines, fitted to Austin A30 / 35's, Morris Minors and MG Midgets, all use the same size exhaust / inlet manifolds, so you could, if you wanted, interchange between them.

Triumph engines exhaust / inlet manifolds all seem to be different, so no interchangability............

C'est la vie...........

Best wishes,

Mike.

[Pete Lewis]

948 and 1147 have the same porting  the 13/60 changed  so  all 1296 have the same porting

inlets and exhausts change to suit twin or single carbs etc  but all as interchangeable as any other marques 

Pete

 

[NonMember]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

all 1296 have the same porting

As do the 1500s, so it's perfectly possible to drop a Spitfire 1500 engine into a 13/60 Herald and retain the Herald's carb, manifolds and exhaust.

[Clive]

11 hours ago, NonMember said:

As do the 1500s, so it's perfectly possible to drop a Spitfire 1500 engine into a 13/60 Herald and retain the Herald's carb, manifolds and exhaust.

Add overdrive, maybe a swing spring, and you have a superb car. (I liked driving mine more than my 2.5 vitesse on a twisty road)

[jagnut66]

Interesting stuff. I have an overdrive box and the bits needed to fit it already but that's for another day / post.

Best wishes,

Mike.

[jagnut66]

Well I have now fitted a rich 1098 needle (ref: code DL for the HS4). 

Also I have changed the air filter back to something nearer standard. The Chromed SU pancake looked good but it turned a quiet running engine into a noisy 'raspy' one, which I didn't like.

So I now have the set up below. The air filter is a Morris Marina one  with an inverted SU filter elbow. This meant filing a pair of fresh channels in the filter elbow to match a couple of vent holes on the SU but it wasn't a big problem to overcome.

It started, ran and revved on the driveway okay, plus there was a noticeable improvement in how it sounds.

I'm going to take it for a run out tomorrow (Thursday), so I'll let people know how this goes.

There is a small 'lip' on the section of inner wing attached to the bonnet that is slightly bent inwards, this just scrapes the metal lid on the air filter, hence the scrape marks on it.

Providing the run out goes okay I'll alter this so it misses the air filter lid in future. 

Best wishes,

Mike.

[jagnut66]

Well, the drive out went okay.

Sort of.

I found she was over revving and wondered why, until I remembered the little screw that adjusts the 'rest' position of the choke lever on the side of the carb. You'd be surprised how many people forget this little screw. Me included on this occasion of course.

It should have a few thou clearance, as in not be touching / activating the lever until the choke is pulled out, this one, for some reason, had been screwed half way out in its former set up (it was previously fitted to someone elses Mini) and consequently it was as if the choke was permanently engaged.

Once home again I corrected this, to find the engine wasn't at all happy. After much tinkering and fiddling with the adjustment screw settings I came to the conclusion that, with a standard style filter attached, it didn't like the rich 1098 needle.  I also felt that a standard 1098 needle would make it run even weaker, so opted to refit the standard 1275 needle.

So far, with the adjustment screws now tweeked, it seems much happier. 

A good run will tell but that will have to wait until Sunday, as I'm off the NEC classic motor show tomorrow.

I suspect there may be more 'tinkering and fiddling' ahead, however I am happy enough with the SU to have now removed the part of the bonnets inner wing that was fouling the standard style air filter whenever I closed the bonnet.

Best wishes,

Mike.

[jagnut66]

Todays (Sunday) drive out was much better.

She pulled and climbed well and is no longer over revving when standing (at junctions etc.) in neutral, so I shall leave it at that for now. 🙂

Still doesn't like much choke, she's now back to as she was with the Solex fitted in that respect, pull it out when starting from cold, move her off the driveway and shortly thereafter push it back in (off).

To summarize the combination I've ended up with is:

Side Draft Carb Adapter (originally for a stromberg carb) mated to SU HS4 carb with a 'standard'  1275 needle (needle code DZ).

Then a SU air filter elbow, inverted and fitted with a Morris Marina Air Filter.

To do this I employed a craft knife to adapt gaskets where neccessary, plus some hardboard and a 2mm rubber sheet, to make a hardboard 'reducer', to make the hole in the base of the air filter smaller and the 2mm rubber sheet to make a gasket to seal it. I also had a couple of hole saws handy (like you use for cutting holes for bath taps etc except larger -- readily available at the likes of B & Q) for making the reducer and for using as a size template for the rubber gasket (craft knife deployed to cut the rubber round them).

NB: I spayed the hardboard black after, so it isn't that noticeable.

The remainder of the 2mm rubber sheet was riveted to the inner wing under the bonnet, to act as a splash / mud guard, replacing the section of metal I had to remove to allow clearance for the air filter.

Best wishes,

Mike. 

 

[jagnut66]

On 24/10/2021 at 10:25, Colin Lindsay said:

The SU adaptor I have is similar:

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with Colin, how far are you from having one of your Heralds back on the road?

Best wishes,

Mike.

[Colin Lindsay]

39 minutes ago, jagnut66 said:

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with Colin, how far are you from having one of your Heralds back on the road?

Best wishes,

Mike.

Estate engine almost complete, just adding the loom and electrics which includes dashboard. I'd like to think that by the weekend the bonnet can go back on and engine fluids added. After that, interior, glass and roof. The rear hatch will be the final touch. The convertible has been stalled due to the body not fitting the chassis, so I need to confirm which is wrong - body or chassis - and alter accordingly. The 13/60 is fully road legal but tatty, so will be a quick stripdown over the winter months ready for next March. That's the theory - one for fun runs, one for static shows and one to work on, so that I'll leave the other two alone...