Squeaky Clutch pedal with little travel

[avivalasvegas]

Greetings All,

After replacing the GT6's previously leaking Clutch Master and Slave cylinders with new old stock Girling units from Dave @ LongBridgeLtd, we sprung a leak again. Turns out Dave's "newly replaced" seals weren't new after all. 

We've repainted the bulkhead now and installed new seals - the leaks have yet to reappear. That said, the clutch pedal is quite squeaky and has alot less travel distance than any car I've driven. No air in the system, seal and fluid is new. Any thoughts on what else I may have missed or have to do next?

[Colin Lindsay]

Have you replaced the pushrods with shorter versions? Might account for the shorter travel - are they your originals, or ones that came with the new cylinders?

A creaky pedal is likely to be the return spring; some of my cars creaked and twanged for years until I got fed up and replaced it.

[Pete Lewis]

and make sure the bleed nipple is uppermost  on the slave   even  push theslave piston fully home to reduce volume when bleeding

as for wrong push ros on the M cyl  the clutch pedal should be about level with the brake pedal pad  foot off 

seized pedal pivots are quite common so the pedal does not return to its back stop 

Pete

[DanMi]

is the pivot hole in the pedal worn oval, is the pin worn as this area can lead to a lot of lost pedal travel.

[PeteH]

1 hour ago, DanMi said:

is the pivot hole in the pedal worn oval, is the pin worn as this area can lead to a lot of lost pedal travel.

On mine the  pins where seized in the pedal, and had been wearing on the bracket, I had to weld the brackets up and reform the holes.?

Pete

[Nigel Clark]

1 hour ago, DanMi said:

is the pivot hole in the pedal worn oval, is the pin worn as this area can lead to a lot of lost pedal travel.

That happened on my GT6 and I had to weld up the hole and re-drill. The oval hole resulted in a bit of lost movement and a rattle on rough roads that took ages to diagnose.

Nigel