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Unleaded head


Piglet

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Hi everyone

I've tried searching for this and can't find any info. So...is it worth getting hardened valves for use with E5 petrol? I would have assumed that over the years the valves would have hardened up a fair bit but is this conversion worth it?

Alex

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You'll get a good number of replies saying basically the same thing, don't bother unless you have to take the head off for other work. There will be references to lead memory. No need unless you push the engine to its limits regularly.

In my own case I have been told that the head on my 13/60 hasn't been done, should it need work then I would do it. I use a lead replacement additive in the petrol, some will say even that isn't needed.

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43 minutes ago, Chris A said:

You'll get a good number of replies saying basically the same thing, don't bother unless you have to take the head off for other work. There will be references to lead memory. No need unless you push the engine to its limits regularly.

In my own case I have been told that the head on my 13/60 hasn't been done, should it need work then I would do it. I use a lead replacement additive in the petrol, some will say even that isn't needed.

+1, totally agree.

The most important upgrade to enable a Triumph to cope with modern petrol is modern fuel hose, genuine R9 or higher spec, e.g. Cohline. Please don't be tempted by cheap fuel hoses with bogus performance ratings.

The Club Shop sells suitable fuel hose.

Nigel

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As Far as I understand it. The percieved wisdom, Is "Do Nothing", adjust the Timing?, and use it. Hardened seats are best left untill the head has to come off anyway.

Which is pretty much what has already been said. Lot`s of "snake oil" out in "tinternet land". Having said that I do have the Invoice for a "unleaded" head swap via Club Shop about 1995ish with the paperwork, so someone spent dollop of cash.

Pete

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I see this is mk3 / IV spitty 

agree dump addatives  save  the money to buy fuel  use car more   

there is many years of lead memory in the head castings  dont worry about this until you do need the head off then its something to consider having exhaust inserts fitted 

stick to E5 97+ ron fuel keep it advanced to factory spec and it will do what its says in the book 

and drive the smile   loose the myths stick to sound triumph basics    sleep easy 

we dont have any real concerns of valve seat recession  on the forum  ,if the tappet gaps continually close up then time to go unleaded 

 

Pete

 

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On 13/04/2022 at 10:23, Pete Lewis said:

I see this is mk3 / IV spitty 

agree dump addatives  save  the money to buy fuel  use car more   

there is many years of lead memory in the head castings  dont worry about this until you do need the head off then its something to consider having exhaust inserts fitted 

stick to E5 97+ ron fuel keep it advanced to factory spec and it will do what its says in the book 

and drive the smile   loose the myths stick to sound triumph basics    sleep easy 

we dont have any real concerns of valve seat recession  on the forum  ,if the tappet gaps continually close up then time to go unleaded 

 

Pete

 

I've got the lead balls added into my tank in my 1970 mk3. Would you recommend I just remove them, change the fuel pipes and put E5 in?

 

Cheers

SP

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sorry to say lead balls is a load of balls and has absolutely no effect on the fuel same as snake oil , its claims are just rubbish

leave themin they wont do any harm...or any good 

as for fuel lines i would only change them if they are looking fretted or sad 

club shop sells gates hose which is bullet proof , most E problems are down to fake e bay fuel hose of un known specification  fake hose breaks down inside and blocks float jets and helps breed rubber slivers/particles

E5  97+ ron is the closest you can get to what the cars were designed to run on you can use factory settings  and get the best performance 

and economy ,  if you use E10 95ron you need to retard the timing and change the mixture you get lower performance and a hotter running engine 

the lower the E the less water content to give you problems if laid up .

Pete

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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

sorry to say lead balls is a load of balls and has absolutely no effect on the fuel same as snake oil , its claims are just rubbish

leave themin they wont do any harm...or any good 

as for fuel lines i would only change them if they are looking fretted or sad 

club shop sells gates hose which is bullet proof , most E problems are down to fake e bay fuel hose of un known specification  fake hose breaks down inside and blocks float jets and helps breed rubber slivers/particles

E5  97+ ron is the closest you can get to what the cars were designed to run on you can use factory settings  and get the best performance 

and economy ,  if you use E10 95ron you need to retard the timing and change the mixture you get lower performance and a hotter running engine 

the lower the E the less water content to give you problems if laid up .

Pete

Thanks Pete, I bought some pipe from the club shop as we discussed elsewhere. I'll swap the pipes out and and leave the lead balls where they are.

You the man. 👍

 

SP

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I have just started rebuilding my 73 gt6 engine and have found all the inlet seats and valves have nice shiny surfaces and all the exhaust valves and seats are completely burnt and leaking, so will deffo be having hardened valve seats fitted for the rebuild...

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