Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 very few places give sensible clues about J types blocked needle holes is D type a very different means of operation of the J type hydraulic system electrical is obviously one culprit disconnect and re test is a good call but on all the mind of its own J types i have played with has been the solenoid its the life and soul of what goes where , not the main sol 0 rings but the small ones inside on the shuttle , when they stick or leak you get pumped pressure where you dont expect it so you get the its IN its OUT all by its self Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Steps then: 1. Mechanical test (disconnected power) 2. Solenoid rebuild. 3. Fingers crossed! Hopefully not serious as was working beautifully. A surprise given who knows how long it was since last used! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 i first came across this on the ride home from buying the 2000 fine on test runs but going home it started its dance so lack of use has something to add to the why. ............come across a few more since then paddocks sell the 1"af thin spanner if you cant undo it . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Deffo a J type @Mathew as I cleaned it out/refilled before fitting. Perhaps not well enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 It was one of those ‘Triumph experience’ trips yesterday. Had popped to garage to get front wheels aligned. Aside from the o/d issue I returned with a flooding rear carb caused by a sliver of rubber blocking the valve (probably from pushing the pipe on as post the fuel filter in flow). The post resto niggles will, hopefully, subside soon…just as well it looks beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 When I bought car 9 years ago, J type fine on test run and again for first few miles of driving, after which it would often not engage, not disengage and even engage of own accord. I disconnected solonoid and would still engage. Spoke to Dave Twigger, OD spares of rugby, who was very helpful. Suggested in may be just the solonoid (dirty piston thing sticky/hard O rings) though also the pressure relief valve, hard O rings (very fiddley job to replace, info on buckeye Triumph web site). Did both jobs, held my breath, and it was fine for about 7 years. Two years ago started to not disengage at times. Just removed solonoid this time, it was not clacking when shaking it (no good for Bez), cleaned it and replaced all the O rings again as a matter of course. I didn't lube the piston thing this time, as wondered if the lube had got hot and made it it prone to sticking?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Dave thats exactly as i said its just not talked about so thats two of us to give the sol a good kicking ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 2 hours ago, daverclasper said: When I bought car 9 years ago, J type fine on test run and again for first few miles of driving, after which it would often not engage, not disengage and even engage of own accord. I disconnected solonoid and would still engage. Spoke to Dave Twigger, OD spares of rugby, who was very helpful. Suggested in may be just the solonoid (dirty piston thing sticky/hard O rings) though also the pressure relief valve, hard O rings (very fiddley job to replace, info on buckeye Triumph web site). Did both jobs, held my breath, and it was fine for about 7 years. Two years ago started to not disengage at times. Just removed solonoid this time, it was not clacking when shaking it (no good for Bez), cleaned it and replaced all the O rings again as a matter of course. I didn't lube the piston thing this time, as wondered if the lube had got hot and made it it prone to sticking?. That’s interesting @daverclasper Did you conclude (first time) that it was just the solenoid to blame? Sounds exactly like mine I.e engaging itself . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Well Alan, I never knew if it was either the solonoid or PRV, or could have been both I guess?. I think Dave Twigger thought the PRV may have caused the self engagement? I thought I may as well do both and also check both filters while OD sump plate off for PRV, though filters not bad at all. If you do use Buckeye info, I think they have the PRV and the pump access plugs position mixed up (from memory). Also I used a hammer and punch to unscrew them, rather than the home made tool. Also when solonoid is off, it is maybe worth checking the small narrow oil passageway in that area is clear, a poke with a bit of wire I understand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2022 I’ve now disconnected the electrics and it’s definitely not electrical. Pressure is somehow building up and actuating the overdrive once the oil is warm. Suggests a leaking ‘o’ ring somewhere. I’m going to put it up on the ramps and take a look. Works beautifully when cold! Takes about 5 miles before problems arise. If it was a blocked valve I’d have expected issues from cold (thicker oil) not warm. What to start with first? Solenoid or drain down and base plate off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2022 Report Share Posted May 14, 2022 start with the sol, you will loose when you unscrew it this has to be the 0 rings on the shuttle inside the sol. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 14, 2022 Report Share Posted May 14, 2022 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: start with the sol, Yes, I would try that first, as lot less faf than PRV and worth a service anyway 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2022 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: start with the sol, you will loose when you unscrew it this has to be the 0 rings on the shuttle inside the sol. Pete I hope you’re right @Pete Lewis Will be an easy fix . It’s sat in the drive cooling right now so I can use reverse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 15, 2022 Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 you do need a thin 1" af spanner grind one thinner or get a spanner paddocks list one and a 0 ring kit dont be tempted to use grips on the body you can shear all the small roll pins that hold the body together if its loosen fine but if its secure NO you will get a cupful of oil leak out dont loose the dowty washer Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 Thanks. I took it off (when the engine was out during the car resto) and tested it worked…didn’t occur to me to change the o rings at the time. Hey ho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 Right…tunnel off, seals and spanner ordered (not so easy when it’s in the car is it!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 May as well change the squeaky water pump as the car is in pieces again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 15, 2022 Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 Probably worth ordering a new tiny circlip (+ spare?) for the inner bit, as they are pennies, at same time as buying the seals 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 Just found 2 examples of this problem on the Stag forum, both caused by half engaged solenoids that gradually let pressure build up. So sounds hopeful @Pete Lewis that the fiddling about underneath may not be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 15, 2022 Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 you wont get at it from underneath chassis is def in the way you have the tunnel off why try to grovel it wont work 1 hour ago, AlanT said: So sounds hopeful i would bet my boots on it to me its a pretty std J type failure Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 16, 2022 Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 All you need to do is break the seal / loosen it off very slightly with the spanner, it'll probably turn under finger pressure after that. Definitely much easier to work on from above, even if everytime you drop something you have to get out and reach under... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 16, 2022 Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 yes the seal is supposed to be a dowty washer witha self sealing ring integral its a std thread so a Colin says once you have un nipped it twiddles out easily , there is nothing inside to fall out or need to catch you can work on the sol on the dinning table Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted May 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 ‘Work at dining table?’ Plainly @Pete Lewisyou don’t know my wife! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 17, 2022 Report Share Posted May 17, 2022 Just had a Spitty turn up with a self changing J type with a mind of its own they are out there breeding Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 17, 2022 Report Share Posted May 17, 2022 Overdrive! Work of the devil I say👿 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now