J type o/d odd behaviour

[AlanT]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

Just had a Spitty turn up with a self changing J type with a mind of its own 

they are out there breeding 

Pete

Must be the threat of having to work because it’s Summer! 

[Colin Lindsay]

Just on the subject of O/D (J-type) if I wanted to put an inline (probably blade type) fuse into the system, what would the experts recommend?

[NonMember]

7 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Just on the subject of O/D (J-type) if I wanted to put an inline (probably blade type) fuse into the system, what would the experts recommend?

That depends a bit on your wiring. Are you on a column stalk or a gearknob switch? The latter has a much higher risk of shorts from supply to ground, due to the live feed going up the gearstick.

I think the J-type solenoid draws about 3A max, so a 5A fuse is plenty if that's all it protects. The standard wiring supplies it from the green wires, but if you're putting a dedicated fuse in (and doing so in a sensible location) then it may be sensible to feed that fuse off the white. However, if you're using the usual gearknob switch loom then it's actually shared with the reversing lights.

[Colin Lindsay]

12 minutes ago, NonMember said:

That depends a bit on your wiring. Are you on a column stalk or a gearknob switch? The latter has a much higher risk of shorts from supply to ground, due to the live feed going up the gearstick.

I think the J-type solenoid draws about 3A max, so a 5A fuse is plenty if that's all it protects. The standard wiring supplies it from the green wires, but if you're putting a dedicated fuse in (and doing so in a sensible location) then it may be sensible to feed that fuse off the white. However, if you're using the usual gearknob switch loom then it's actually shared with the reversing lights.

It's the column switch on a J-type, powered from the ignition (white) circuit but I rewired the entire system with new cabling and am slightly worried about the bits that are exposed to the underside of the car, plus where the cable exits between gearbox tunnel and bulkhead metal. Well insulated but still vulnerable. The Herald has no fuses so I'd like one in that circuit and as I've an inline blade fuse holder in the drawer I was wondering about the best size.

[Pete Lewis]

with any OD misbehaving its always worth a drive and hold the gearstick to the left and the right to see 

if a bit of a wiggle shows the inhibitor switch needs a bit of adjustment 

pete

[Steve P]

On my Vitesse with saloon box and o/d (gearstick switch), i have a 5 amp inline fuse on top of the box tie wrapped to the clutch pipe, been ok for 10 years so far.But i do keep a couple of spare fuses in the glove box.

S

[AlanT]

Right. Parts acquired. But questions…realised I didn’t take it off when the engine and box were out, just made sure it ‘clicked’ the upshot being it’s a bit stuck after 40 years. 
Q1: is it just the single big nut to undo?   Or does the bolt underneath (also in the pic) need to come out as well? 
Q2: which way does the big nut release? Up or down from this position? 
Thanks 

[AlanT]

And the special tool has immediately bent! Compare with 1’ spanner!!!!!

[NonMember]

Pete will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it's just the big nut and your ratchet goes down from there.

[AlanT]

Realised it’s not bent. It’s just badly made. Too big at jaws end 

[Pete Lewis]

its not supposed to be gorilla tight 

yes anti clock undoes   normal threads  with dowty sealing washer 

your nut looks thick enough to take a normal spanner ???

i just use an old 1" ground thinner 

Pete

 

 

 

[Peter Truman]

Here's a pic of a solenoid cross section for info, with some info

[AlanT]

9 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

its not supposed to be gorilla tight 

yes anti clock undoes   normal threads  with dowty sealing washer 

your nut looks thick enough to take a normal spanner ???

i just use an old 1" ground thinner 

Pete

 

 

 

Yes, think I’m going to have to grind down a spanner. 

[Pete Lewis]

why is everything this week proving so hard to   UNDO  

    gremlins working overtime ???

 

[Gully]

29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

why is everything this week proving so hard to   UNDO  

    gremlins working overtime ???

 

It's the PO gorillas working overtime 🤣

Gully

[c.hydes]

14 hours ago, AlanT said:

And the special tool has immediately bent! Compare with 1’ spanner!!!!!

Hi Alan, I have a similar problem with my J type and was going to replace the O rings in solenoid as well buy the special thin 1" spanner, however not sure now if it bends that easy? Also how do you use it, with that square hole, or is it designed to just "thump it with a hammer"

Regards, Colin.

[c.hydes]

11 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Here's a pic of a solenoid cross section for info, with some info

Unfortunately it doesn`t show the thickness of the nut to determine what the spanner needs to be ground down to. Does anyone know what the maximum spanner thickness should be?

Regards, Colin.

[AlanT]

8 minutes ago, c.hydes said:

Hi Alan, I have a similar problem with my J type and was going to replace the O rings in solenoid as well buy the special thin 1" spanner, however not sure now if it bends that easy? Also how do you use it, with that square hole, or is it designed to just "thump it with a hammer"

Regards, Colin.

Hi Colin,

it’s not bent, just not accurately made! There is a slot for a socket wrench to go into. I’d grind down a spanner if I were you! 

[c.hydes]

1 hour ago, AlanT said:

Hi Colin,

it’s not bent, just not accurately made! There is a slot for a socket wrench to go into. I’d grind down a spanner if I were you! 

Thanks and understood Alan, but still wouldn`t buy one if it doesn`t work. I have asked on a reply to a later post what the maximum thinness needs to be to grind down, any idea?

Colin.

 

[Mjit]

I've got one of those and had multiple solenoids off and on but never known/needed to know what the square hole was for.  They have always been "hand tight with the little spanner" and worked/not leaked like that.

[Pete Lewis]

well sods law just been out ot measure mine and of the many its not there

i would say around 5-6 mm thick 

i would have thought iains wonky one would undo the square hole is to use a rachet  not a mallet  !!

as i said its dodgy to use grips on the body  as you can shear the small roll pins holding the case on 

unfortunate its been done up by King kong 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

This is mine, an old 1" spanner ground down at each outer edge. I didn't really need to adjust the thickness of it, but did anyway, it's about 5mm thick now and the two 'prongs' are down to around 5 - 6 mm as well.

[c.hydes]

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

This is mine, an old 1" spanner ground down at each outer edge. I didn't really need to adjust the thickness of it, but did anyway, it's about 5mm thick now and the two 'prongs' are down to around 5 - 6 mm as well.

Thanks Colin, gives me a better idea on what is required ie 5 mm maximum thickness should suffice.

However, what's the reason to reduce the outside edges?

Dont suppose you know the dimensions/spacings for the pins required to remove the internal filter inside the overdrive sump filter plate, as it seems logical to clean this as well as refurbish the solenoid?

Regards, Colin.

[Colin Lindsay]

51 minutes ago, c.hydes said:

However, what's the reason to reduce the outside edges?

You need to grind the edges back as it won't fit into the gap between chassis / bodywork and gearbox otherwise. I experimented when grinding that one and that's the profile that allowed it to fit, both into the space around the nut, and the surrounding metal. 

The holes are 3/16", no idea of the spacing as I used an old set of pliers ground down to fit.

[daverclasper]

1 hour ago, c.hydes said:

Dont suppose you know the dimensions/spacings for the pins required to remove the internal filter inside the overdrive sump filter plate, as it seems logical to clean this as well as refurbish the solenoid?