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J type o/d odd behaviour


AlanT

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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Otherwise it will leak oil, without a dowt.... :)

I assume a reference to dowty washers...but none of the J-Type overdrive's I've ever taking the solenoids off of have had dowty washers, just plain copper ones, as listed in the parts book (NKC108).

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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

its an anti rust  down grade   ha !

so long as it has a sealing washer i would be happy 

getting on the darn thing in the small chassis cars is the Faf

Pete

I’ll be test driving before putting the tunnel back, that’s for sure!!

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33 minutes ago, Mjit said:

I assume a reference to dowty washers...but none of the J-Type overdrive's I've ever taking the solenoids off of have had dowty washers, just plain copper ones, as listed in the parts book (NKC108).

I used one on my last O/D (GT6 with aftermarket J-type) just to be sure, but any kind of copper washer will suffice so long as it does what it's meant to do!

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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I used one on my last O/D (GT6 with aftermarket J-type) just to be sure, but any kind of copper washer will suffice so long as it does what it's meant to do!

Bit of Blue Hylomar/Stag Wellseal around the washer, lower threads as back up, if you have any.

Out of interest, will fibre washers work, or does oil soak though them?

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fibre washers do seal well and have some compressibility but not as good as copper 

if there is a lot of pressure involved a fibre may let go 

ie you wouldnt use a fibre washer on brake lines and i dodnt know what pressure is contained in the J type solenoid

zone ,

both have their uses but its the use that determines the usage  

Pete

 

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16 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Bit of Blue Hylomar/Stag Wellseal around the washer, lower threads as back up, if you have any.

Odd, I can't say I've ever either found traces of it from previous owners or any signs of oil leaks coming from the solenoid connection.

I do though have a constant leak from the o/d sump on my Spitfire, from where it's clearly been dropped at some point so no longer perfectly flat surfaces.  Lots of surface cleaning and a new gasket with gunk all over both faces has it down to a managable drip rate though, and thankfully the o/d's built in low oil level warning reminds me to top up if I haven't (gets slow/reluctant to engage).  One day I'm sure I'll have to take the gearbox off to fix something (and not need the car back on the road ASAP) and will address it properly then - but it's been like it for over 20 years so far... :)

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Is that a J type Mjit?. I have a J Type and GB started leaking about a year ago, apparent from the drain hole at bottom of bell housing. I think it only leaks when car is running, as when you wipe of the oil from that area the next day, then doesn't leak anymore.

The level was checked a year ago and car has done only about 1500 miles. Was surprised when it took about two thirds of a litre to top up. Must be chucking it out a bit when running I guess.

No symptoms like you described. How much oil does yours take to top up when you have the warning?

 

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16 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

apparent from the drain hole at bottom of bell housing

If the gearbox is leaking and it comes out there, the most likely culprit is the input shaft seal. If so, it will only leak when the engine is running, as the shaft is above the oil level so it only gets oil there because of the gears spinning.

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Been a long time since it got down to the o/d complaining as I just check it/top it up at the start of the year and before/after any longer trips - like the 1,000 mile trip to Le Mans 12 days time, for the 24hrs 😃

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4 hours ago, Mjit said:

Odd, I can't say I've ever either found traces of it from previous owners or any signs of oil leaks coming from the solenoid connection.

Like many old connections or joints, they tend to seal up over time and so don't leak. Once they're disturbed, it's often a different matter...

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have to say getting the darn thing off a spifire is a right faf 

to get any sort of spanner rotation needs the box lifting 

just two bolts in the tail hsg. but one covered by the angle drive thats another faf getting it out the way 

agree the spanner from JP is far too clumsy to fit and needed its ears reduced to get any sort of fit 

its been a nightmare from the start with H frame bolts that dont, to pauls trolley jack that doesnt 

and too far from home to keep getting tools 

but its off waits me testing and re 0 ring the blighter 

too many parts had been fitted by a gorilla 

Pete

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Hurrah! We have a turn offable overdrive! At least all seems well on a short test drive…boiling hot isn’t it if you drive one of these with no transmission tunnel in! 
Just this lot to deal with…

Thanks everyone.

Alan

52C49F95-4F07-4446-AA4C-F01C706910A5.jpeg

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On 30/05/2022 at 13:10, Pete Lewis said:

most would be amazed or concerned at the amount crack and bang comes from a gear change  

quite enlightening to many 

  H & S          dont wear a long tie   or a doc who scarf  

Pete

Didn't Isadora Duncan come to grief because of long clothes?

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just to follow up my local J type the solenoid 0 rings were fine but the innards had a lot of crud to wash out

now it rattles well but still disengaging at times not the random in out so a quick check of the inhibitor switch 

by holding the gear lever towards the driver test shows it needs some adjustment 

a quick removal and adding a bit of set in the remote bracket and all is well 

so two problems , solved 

Pete

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