Mjit

OK, so it seems the shop search is running on exact rather than wildcard or fuzzy matching. I searched for "cone" and only got back diff cone mounting kits. I also tried searching for the product code, as published in the printed accessory/regalia catalog but it doesn't look like that's used at all by the only shop, either as a code or included in the product content for searching.

Great - a shiny new store front (with a completely different pallet to the rest of the site), just a shame there's nothing in it. Any idea where the heavy duty bonnet cones are hidden (HDBC001)?

For MS I think you'd be looking at this for a kit - http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p270.html It's not Triumph 6-specific but has all the bits you need for any 6 cylinder engine and you just need to find a way to mount the trigger wheel on the crank pulley/the crank sensor so it's about 1mm from the trigger teeth. All of MegaJolt/MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt are open source, map-able ECUs that are available from a number of sources. MJ ECU just does sparks, using common Ford EDIS ignition bits. The two MS ECUs do sparks, again using Ford EDIS ignition but but can also control fuel injectors.

I've gone Megajolt for my Spitfire and wouldn't go back. The engine's 'tweaked' and no-one could get it to run well across the rev. range as it wanted a "U" shaped advance curve, with lots at low RPM, then less, then more again as you went up. I took the easy/sightly more expensive route of a conversion kit from Trigger Wheels (http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d46.html) and after a rolling road session have a solid, sensible tickover, and don't need 3,000RPM to pull away. Even John from JY Classics commented on how well it pulled for a 1300. I've left the dizzy in place (disconnected with the points/condenser/coil in the boot) as if you remove it you need to fabricate a blanking plate to cover the hole - and it's good for confusing people when the bonnet's up.

Electronic flasher units are a really simple and effective upgrade over the mechanical ones - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1061/category/35 Almost a direct replacement for the mechanical one, just requiring a new earth lead and you get indicators that flash as quickly as everyone else's and don't slow down and stop if a bulb earth gets a little grubby.

You're not alone - baffled me what that was for when I first got a 2.5.

...Or just pull the (black) earth connector off the relay, tuck it out of the way and close the boot. The default 'path' through the relay is not-dimmed and it's powering the sidelights that creates a circuit through the relay to the relay's earth connection that flicks things to dimmed. Take the earth off and the relay activation circuit can never complete so the lights never dim. Done this in both my Spitfire and 2.5PI with no issues.

It's very unusual to be able to buy "Antifreeze", normally all you can buy is "Antifreeze and Summer Coolant, with corrosion protection". Does exactly what it says on the tin.

Just unlike those guys fit yours the correct way around! The idea behind the vertical bar is that it helps stop your luggage shooting forwards off the rack in the event of an accident, taking your head off on it's way to the windscreen. It's not to stop is just sliding off the back of the rack.

I rarely wave at fellow classics on the road - but that's just because they've already passed by the time my brain kicks in that there's another classic comeing and works out if I'm going to wave or flash the lights!

@dougbgt6 I usually get mine done at the SEM and you just park up, walk over to the 'office' to book and pay, then join the (usually short) queue. If I remember correctly they were even taking card payments last time.

Umm, you might want to re-read this thread as I'm not sure anyone's expressed the opinion that the club doesn't use social media. A number of people have expressed the opinion they don't give a flying dingo's kidney about online advertising agencies like Facebook and Twitter and the opinion that it took far, far too long to reinstate these forums. I never have and most likely never will visit the TSSC Facebook page or view it's Twitter stream. I do use these forums and almost left the club when the forums went missing - I saw little point being a member of the TSSC if I was spending all my time on the Club Triumph forums...

Says who? The "you need to flush the system and change the seals" statement always seems to come out when anyone mentions DoT5 fluid but it's not what it says on the side of a bottle of DoT5 fluid. In fact it states you DON'T need to flush/change seals*. The bottle does recommend flushing as the result will be a (generally safe) blend but the DoT4 bit will still be hydroscopic. Of course chances are your seals are getting on a bit and they're cheap as chips really so a bit of a false economy NOT to change them while you're faffinf around with them. * Or didn't last time I was bored-enough to read one.

I've got a similar (first world) problem with my Spitfire exhaust and plan* to find a local exhaust specialist who makes custom exhausts and see what they recommend. I'm hoping they can pop the silencers open and add some sound absorbing material to them. These sorts of places tend to do most of their work in stainless so should be set up to re-weld the boxes. * I have to confess I've been saying this for about 10 years without actually doing it...

Got Uniroyal Rain Experts on my Spitfire and very happy with them. Used to have Michelins and was happy with them too. Had Pirellis years ago and it just seemed to eat those on the fronts!

An alternative method to stop the engine turning is to pop the starter motor out and clamp a pair of good quality mole grips on to the flywheel through the hole.

Vauxhall Vectra battery from Halfords. Fits in the battery tray and has the power to crank the engine for hours* without running flat. The terminals are the other way around/on the other side of the battery but there should be enough cable to reach without modification (was for me). Yes, they don't always last that long but come with at least a 3-year guarantee so keep your receipt as you can take it back and get a new one - with a new 3-year guarantee last time I had to do it (current one's still happy after about 6 years). * OK, so not ACTUAL hours but way longer than the 'correct' battery for a Spitfire.

First off I'd replace the mechanical flasher unit for a modern, 3 terminal electronic one. Much more reliable, more consistent flash rate and also a little more tollerent to bad earths (as it's electronically timed rather than relying on current through the circuit to heat up a bi-metalic strip). Easier than that to disable the night dimming relay. No need to bypass all the joints, just pull of the relay's earth lead. With no earth the relay circuit will never complete so you're always in 'day' mode.

On my Spitfire I managed to get away fitting the studs and torquing up the nuts, then cutting the studs flush with the top of the nuts. Gives just enough room for the cover to fit - but you do need to buy yourself a pair of half nuts should you ever need to remove the studs as there isn't enough stud to lock to normal nuts together on.

Got one of these earlier in the year and don't think either of my traditional torque wrenches have been out of their boxes since. Part of the reason was a growing lack of faith in my big wrench...which the new digital one showed to be way out. I know some people won't trust this new-fangled digital stuff but having spent time playing with stress gauges (what's doing the work inside the box) I'd trust them a lot further than I could throw a mechanical wrench.

The cycle is suck/squeeze/bang/blow. For suck you want the inlet valve to be open, so the fuel/air mix can get in to the cyclinder. For squeeze you want everything closed - if either the inlet or exhaust valves are open the rising piston will just push everything back out the cylinder via that valve. For bang you also want everything closed - if either valve is open it will be easier for the gases to exit the cylinder that way, rather than by pushing the piston down and turning the crank. For blow you want the exhause valve open so the rising piston can get the spent gases out, before swapping exhaust and inlet valves as you go over TDC and back in to suck. So it sounds like things are broadly right on the timing front. As #1 approached TDC with both valves closed (squeeze) the rotor arm approaches #1 plug lead. Mean while #4 is at the other end of the cycle, approaching TDC on the blow (exhaust open) and moving in to suck (inlet open). All that said nothings going to work if you're not getting any fuel - and even if you were times 180 degrees out you should still be getting suck through the carbs. Are you getting fuel to the carbs? Crank for 30s and check you have fuel in the float chambers. If you don't check back towards the tank to work out why. If you do start with the jets flush with the carb body and screw then down 3 turns. That low fuel should just bubble through. If it doesn't start unscrewing the pipe from the float chamber to the carb. Fuel should starts leaking and it suggests the pipe is blocked (and if there's fuel in the float chamber and it doesn't leak you're breaking the laws of physics!). Have you checked your rocker gaps and are they actually going 'loose' when closed. If not the exhaust valves could not be closing fully, so you'd be sucking air back past them rather than fuel/air through the carbs/past the inlet. Grab an assistant and a can of Easy Start. Get them to crank the engine and squrt Easy Start directly through the carbs. That should get some caughing and spluttering (and maybe a little back-firing so keep your eyebrows clear) if nothing else.

Heat shield shouldn't be necessary - remember you'll be pumping fuel through the fuel rail at 30-50PSI, not the 3-5PSI for carbs so it won't be around the manifolds very long to pick up any heat.

If you're going to go electronic I'd go the whole hog and swap to MegaJolt. Made an amazing difference to my car.

I think you're problem's shit parts rather than DOT5 fluid there.

Exhaust could be a good call - 4-2-1-2 stainless system that's not caused any issues in the past but did come off and on to replace the diff. so has been disturbed. Just so annoying being 300 odd miles from my car 5 days of the week so getting minimal time to investigate things