Pete Lewis

just looking i dont have a triumph spit !V WSM i have haynes and dont hold that as gospel because that shows the ign sw logic as term 1 white red to starter solenoid term 2 Brown feed from battery/solenoid term 3 has three whites oil psi switch/alt warning lamp and ......ceramic ballast for the coil term 4 white /pink to feed the heater fan you need to check what your white pink is doing and where its feeding , this idea it feed the heater makes no sense unless you have a seperate ceramic balllast on your pic the dull white pink definitley has the look of a resistive wire and that would be picked up from a short white pig tail on the switch term 3 let us know what colours are on your switch it also show the solenoid as having the two terminals one for white yellow and one for white red whats yours got??? Pete

Ok its got on, but you say the wire goes over the edge ???? do you mean it gets trapped under the cap ? Thats very wrong get a small bulb on a lead or a circuit test screwdriver and clip it on the leads you want to test Dull white pink comes on in normal ign on position Yellow white comes on when ignition sw is turned to starter white red comes on when ign sw is turned to starter How many small blade terminals are on the solenoid one or two ?? IE is there one for the white red and also one for the white yellow or ( edit) is this on an eyelet under the lead that goes to the starter ?

Good point Derek, in our rectification shop there were often burnt wrists and fingers from shorting out rings and braclet watch straps, and eyes from sparks off dropped tools making involuntary contact with flash bang wallop good call how about a H and S page to record all the antics of life?? pete

its unusual for a inlet seat to crack , what was the snag of sizing an insert to be fitted ?? pete

The photo, s help a little but not clear they are of what we need from the back of the ign switch its showing the dull white pink trace wire thats the ballast resistor wire this should end up breaking out the harness at /and be connected to the coil positive terminal there should also be a white yellow runs from a terminal on the solenoid and also be connected to the coil positive( some this is on the starter feed terminal some have a separate lucar blade to use for the white yellow) it must not be on the terminals with the brown wires. the white red at the sol is the feed from the ign switch to make it crank over. from the negative coil terminal there is only one wire to the dizzy points we dont have a picture of whats inside the dizzy so cant advise on how your points connect there tends to be two design a post and nut with plastic insulators the wires from coil and condenser must be under the plastic insulator not on top of it if you have the type where the coil feed and condenser are joined and simply hook in the points spring there is less to go wrong again ....getting bored now, there must be a short flexible wire that earths the moving points base plate to the outer case of the dizzy ......please check its important and you dont seem to want to confirm this we cant suggest remotely at a distance and pre guess solutions if you dont give us the clues we ask for to try to help you. using the white pink feed means you must use the 1.5 ohm ballast 6v coil ( or a coil marked 12v ballasted) to check the resistance set your meter to the small headphone ohms symbol and check across the two blade terminals Pete

Well youre going to tai one see how it goes , if you ever thought of a used there is a danger fitting used as they take on a memory torque twist, fit a lh to a rh and you try to unwind it and they start a crack which shears quite rapidly so you taiwan unit is probably a good move

Hope you meant air box not airbag their not easy to hide on a Vitesse

ive just fell off Ha ! me slippers lost grip Pete

Hi Pat I said resevations about HS6 being pretty troublesome when you bought the car, so youre looking at putting her back as triumf intended ......it works look out for a std airfilter box and some intake tubes for some cool air I use 1.5 sink waste or cheap pond pump flexible hose We have a area vitesse that has taken the same route putting the CD 150s on transformed a very unhappy car you just could not set up the 6s to work nicely pete

No idea but setting up tripples can be sleepless nights . And strong tea pete

the white pink is a resistive wire which drops the 12v to 6-8 volt it replaced the separate ceramic ballast resistor found on many ( not just triumph ) if you replace it ( bypass or whatever ) you need to fit a 3ohm 12v coil as the replacing will remove the 'ballast' voltage dropping effect if you leave a 1.5 ohm coil on and run it on 12v you double the amps and double the HT now that does blow ecu/pick ups /modules . burnt points blow rotors and fail condensers think weve said beware of coils marked as 12v ballasted these are 6v coils put a simple meter on ohms and check across the disconnected blade terminals ballast must have 1.5 ohm full 12v must have 3 ohms you worry me with the continual 12v at the cap ?????? this makes no sense there nothing at the HT terminals on the CAP onlt when the points fire the coil then its around 22,000v more or less Pete

The hs6 mani probably came from a mk2 2000/2500S these used hs6 Makes no difference the head ports on all mk2 engines are the same so any 2ltr mk2 manifold gasket will fit .the whole mk2 range irresspective of what body or model Pete

You still need the short flexible wire to connect the contact base plate to the dizzy body !!!!! Is there one actually fitted often runs from condenser fixing screw to the base plate fixing screw pete

thanks for that , we have to be quick in the mad house or they nick your tea, be prepared for some occasional banter or thread drift .....it sort of happens i second the problems with wires look nice and the improved handling you get with steel or alloy being more stable. pete

i sheared the diff output shaft on my 59- 948 back in 1965 it was a real rust bucket . worked in the dark 30yds from the house , took the whole diff out then found i only needed the short shaft....we learnt the hard way back then no money and no forums

so the bridge block may already been stripped , normally due to too long bolts bottomed out and heavy hands you can tap them out to 8mm and use metric bolts this can work, or even try as far as 3/8"unf or UNC as for timing cover oil seals try to get a metal cased one often the plastic variety are far too deep and wont stay in the cover for long if the crank collar is worn you can reverse it . if you do a chain change read the manual about the sprocket holes and how they allow 1/4 degree increments and how (ask here) to make sure the piston and cam lobes are TDC its most important Pete

does the antiques road show have a forum then ???

I hoid you, I hoid you Rare..... does that put the price up

Hi Colin, yes looking at parts list there are only 2 ally packers showing and typical of triumph, no Parts List or WSM gives any clues about what goes where, a common failing when you need some simple helpful details that are not recorded anywhere. in the hands of the beholder rules apply Pete

is she still a 948 or is under the bonnet as modified as the body and interior certainly unique let us know how you get on Pete

the 12v feed to the pickup is internal , from the wires to the pickup, you mention the 'cap' the cap only distributes the HT 22'000volts when the coil is triggered. hard to explain in words but you feed the coil pos+ with 12v when cranking, and 6 v when on ignition and the ballast is used you need to ground/earth the coil Neg- to check these voltages with a meter reading on the neg- terminal. the wire from the coil neg- to the dizzy pick up is the same trigger line as with points this wire is used to dump the coil primery and this makes the HT 22kv for your spark via the dizzy cap and rotor arm to the plugs. there has to be some other earth to make the circuit complete , this is as said normally the pickup base earths via the dizzy base plate and must be wired to the dizzy outside body. then your battery feeds the ign switch , the switch feeds the coil, the coil lead is earthed via the pick up and the dizzy earths the neg back to the battery well something like that its seems you have the last part of the circuit is missing ??? so earth the coil neg and measure the votlage dont stick leads in gob , can be enlightening , hair on end and eyes go red, things you need drop off Pete

Tjeres lots of thoughts on tub spread , from heavy luggage to slamming doors , i think its all down to the poor design support to the front of the rear wing/open B post arrangement it just droops you can drill out the rear boot outrigger and poke a new nut and washer down the end of the rail ie washer and nut stuck to a short spanner and insert from the open end seem some drilled right through and long bolts. dont over tighten the bolts I used any much solid spacers as required and one rubber from a truck mud flap cut with hole saw Generally no rubbers on diff crossmember or front baulkhead I also added two sized countersunk bolts under the tread plate trim to stop any closure of the door gaps by any future tub shift.

most lecy units need 3 connections a lead to the neg coil a pos + feed from a 12v source and the pickup needs its base earthed to complete the circuit, hence need for the base plate wire if the dizzy is not earthing the pick up it wont work just by being connected to the coil neg- it has to earth the neg downstream of the coil after the pick up module Pete

they are all 6 cly are the same thread , some of the adaptors may vary as time evolved take up Pauls offer

having just stripped some stroms from a not run since 82 GT6 the hard corroded crud has taken its toll, needed some serious chemicals to dissolve the stuff and much soda spraying the needle where firmly jammed in the jets ...a nightmare i have never come across to this extent never ad to lever things apart jelly in the SU jet tubes is common , but this old fuel was about to form fossils Pete