Pete Lewis

try Woolies Trim http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ cant see a chestnut but there are some maybe close ?? or ring newton commercials who make the seat and door cards http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk

yes 22 T are early design inboard of the washer jets 130 marked on the motor gearwheel outboard have 32 t and 160 on the motor gearwheel. you cant mix and match Pete

patience and balance something senior moments start to preclude

You just like to get me into trouble The last trip, put the picasso into sick mode now scotland .....Hmmm I would like to help Colin but thats stretching the good will a bit he needs t o travel south and visit sunny luton ryan air and gearbox as hand baggage pete

Youre capable stop faffing get at it Ha Pete

My guess you have the wrong clips pete

you will be making whoopee cushions next !!!!

wow £75 many cars used these things its not unique to triumphs 'was on' was just that.......... was on Ha Pete

have you looked in the mirror lately !!!! just looked it up the valve was on usa spec cars GT6 and TR 6 https://www.canleyclassics.com/demoapp/?ptno=12H4295

and make a sponge doughnut to seal the bonnet grill to the heater intake so no stray engine side air goes down the heater intake you cant rely on the baulkhead seal get some cheap foam from places like dunelm etc thick enough to fill the gap under the bonnet heater intake grill, and seal the tunnel and missing grommets .

erm.....yes skilled or semi skilled line operators now replaced with shelf stackers bill at rarebits stopped trading but he always had the green ones available come back bill !!!! as i said the OE was a thin metal coated stip not a fat plastic one, much easier to locate the clips and heave Ho. and door was probably trimmed on a fixture not on the car so access was better . Pete

then add too fast idle speed, low grade fuel, retarded, spark plug spec, some do this and you can fit an anti run on valve that opens when you switch off, think some late GT6 had these in the manifold Pete

well we got to guildford Colin, but NI is pushing your luck Pete

yes the green clips are the best some are just too closed up and need prising open a bit this is due to replacement seals being far thicker than the originals there s technique i use which involes 16 pairs of hands make a simple metal flat bladed hook to sit the clip in and give a good hand hold outside tie a long cotton to the clip so you can retrieve the sods when they fly off . a short bit of timber as a punch and small hammer method fit clip with cotton in the tool /holder drop it in the rear end of the door gap slide along to where you want to fit it make sure the clip is going to ride over the rubber seal and clip on the door down turned flange then with the 'other hand ' hold timber on door seal pull tool up to start to engage the clip on the seal and the door and while pulling up , whack the timber to knock the seal downwards till the clip is fully up and seal is fully down have some tea then do the next so you need some help to pull this together its the only way to succeed but this actually works then find cotton retrieve all lost clips Pete

just to add if your read the wsm backwards they say 1200-13/60 have bushes in the cluster so does not need a dummy shaft every box be it 4 pot or 6 pot has always had loose needle rollers ... a dummy shaft is 0.655" dia and 5.5" long there can be a spigot bolt to retain the shaft screwed in the side of the case ,, you dont tend to get that with later or overdrive boxes they have a spirol pin in the end of an extended shaft. when the cluster drops the thrust washers should stay in place , if they drop a bit for refitting tickle them thro the casing hole with a small screwdriver. they have a tag which locates in a notch in the case to stop them rotating

Would it not be better to use the horn push for the horn and and the dash stalk for the OD ????

Convince tablets only work if im in my slippers colin, you can make a dummy shaft from an old one a wooden dowl or length of hose I just need to get you a diameter amd length is this the right forum ....??????

Trying to type and correct this ruddy tablet is hopless you will have to make up the mispells pete

Colin, the dog teeth on the input shaft are normally bigger diameter than the gear , so to get the input shaft out you first have to tie drop the layshaft gear set cluster, There is a long spindle that sits thro holes in the case one in the front face one in the rear face this spindle needs to be lightly tapped out , generally rewards. inside the gear clust is a approx 20+ needle rollers, if you just pull the spindle out the rollers all fall about laughing, to avoid this most push a shorter shaft in to push the long one out theres a length in the wsm but cant get mine just now the cluster will drop into the bottom of the case , amd the input can be drifted out the front of the case wjen the Ip shaft is removed you will see the bearing surface of the end of the maknshaft this can degrade and easy to be scrapped if the needle rollers inside the IP shaft have worn out the 3rd 4th hub is aloose fit on the main shaft , you cant remove it as fiited in the box but it will slide forwards , if you peer into the gap there is small wire cirlip holds the 3rd gear thrust washer amd gear on the shaft , these break and the gear will start to have lotes of end float its worth looking having got this far. Most manuals show the strip proceedures The input shaft can be drifted out from a punch against the outer ring of the bearing, do not allow the punch to damage the chip shield , a thin tin disc which protects the ball race from debris

Colin You need a dummy short shaft in the cluster to hold the needles in place and allows the cluster to drop then the input will pass without snagging. You can just pull the spindle out the cluster drops and all the needles fall out then make up a dummy shaft to aid refitting string or wire looped around the cluster to help lift it back up check the spigot on the mainshaft and pull the 3rd 4th hub forwards check the 3rd gear cirlip is intact on the mainshaft pete

There is an inhibitor switch hidden on top of the gearbox, this stops engagement in 1s 2nd if its a J type the solenoid piston may be sticking or need new O rings needs a thin 1" af spanner to remove it theres is a small 10mm circlip in the sol end, this needs removing to tap out the inner spool valve piston for a clean up. You can check the feed with a bulb connected to the solenoid terminal J types dont have a relay, just the gear knob switch and inhibitor switch wiring down the gearstick is a common failing use silcon wire it takes the heat better pete

you are in gear engine running You must check if the propshaft is tuning you have a diff driveshaft problem if engine runs, in gear , but prop is not turning you have a clutch problem pete

So now I need to get a eye mask just watching the Lone Ranger recorded last week,,, dont remember Tonto having a bird on his head

Yes its just replace the cable cam lever with whatever needle and piston spring may need triumphing autos use a different torque band and the base specs what ever make its of may be different to a manual but the base carb will be easy to reset with whatever spec you fancy ...if the parts are avaiable I recon rootes base as it has the two position choke stop for summer winter , not seen on many marques things that vary are the needle profile the spring wire diameter and the diaphragm clamp plate weight the rest is pretty std across the carb range.

have some old switches but off on the TSSC founders run in a few minutes so will have a thread measure when i return Pete