Pete Lewis

having just stripped some stroms from a not run since 82 GT6 the hard corroded crud has taken its toll, needed some serious chemicals to dissolve the stuff and much soda spraying the needle where firmly jammed in the jets ...a nightmare i have never come across to this extent never ad to lever things apart jelly in the SU jet tubes is common , but this old fuel was about to form fossils Pete

is the pickup earthed through the dizzy body same as with points needs that little flexi wire plate the casing Pete

this reminds me of a guy at work who was always after some clues an never listened to advice, he had a Vx Victor so in desperation told him to stick the HT lead in his mouth and turn the engine over to find TDC next morning had to get security to remove him ...so dont try this at home think he was mentally scared for a long time , this doesnt help much but cant stick anymore ruddy poldark Pete

Ive got some 12mm x 1mtr tryaps , a few co joined still makes the boot handle a contender well the suns out what do you expect

John I was trying answer why Shaf was searching google when the listings and content are on the forum

Theres a mk2 manifold and carbs up on ebay starts at £50 have you tried used from places like TRGB they are now mainly TR but have a load used small chassis up in the store pete

Use what ever you prefer, bear in mind theres a good bit of handling to replace the sump so expect some on the hands , worth a look at the timing cover seal while your seeking leaks, then it goes on to timing chains where to stop , or leave well alone , with the sump off use a small ball pein hammer and strike with a heavier one and drift the flange holes down from the top, with age the bolt holes distort where it crushes the gasket , you need to make it flat or reverse the distortion so give all holes a good whack

Welcome home Roger , so you reckon thats was making the noises then. yikes pete

Look ot up scroll down the forum and find tech specs and whats on couriers up to 2006 the shop sells the 4 cd which covers all editions from 1977 to 2014 pete

has the car any history of boiling up ?? youve done all the work on the head , why look at replacing without due proof most heads have casting lines that look like cracks dont get carried away without good proof of the culprit pull the plugs is there any water in the bores ??? Pete

in Herts and Beds we have this year left most static events for area members to DIY and each month we have managed a Run these vary from 25 to 100 miles to something between steam trains ,car museums ,garden centres old friends and chip shops and obligatory end up at a pub for a dinner so far we have been well attended, there's been a few moan about not supporting static events but think we are on a winner so far. It works Pete

early days of noise regs on trucks in the 60/70s we used thick sealed skin close cell foam to line all the bolt on claptrap and under floors , rear enclosures etc. i lined the under tunnel and floor of my 70s New Avenger it made a remarkable difference, thinks have moved on since then but felt or foam it does work well. i agree with drives not rivet counters but err towards longish out and back to somewhere to engage the brain rather than long tours ....one day !!! Pete

The damper ring is more solid Depends on engine evolution as to pumps having a strainer , not all sumps have the splash gauze Later or replacement pumps have a strainer rather than a clear suction tube.

yes wooden wedges used on both, we had a truck stop at Jacks Hill on the old A1 I wondered why it was so popular. if the oil pump has the old strainer and the splash gauze in the sump it can aid the frustration. on one awkward one i undid the oil pump bolts thro the gap and dropped it in the sump, its the x member that need clearing wsm says lever the sump rearwards and it falls off ..... Ha Pete

it has all the hallmarks of air locking , double check all the simples before you rip her apart youve had the head skimmed assume something simple is the culprit.......... apart from the what did do last rules there is no call for any sealant in the WSM , so its fit it dry !!!

Well yes, theres little else left if you want the sump off unless you have a block and tackle or engine crane hiding in anice new garage !!!

You need to jack off the front pulley or similar

No idea about a gt6 but the rails (called listing rails) generally are sprung across the cantrails to act as a bow, threaded through the head linner above the stitch lines and not touch the roof , anoying that we had a full trim dept where the girls would have made a new one in minutes.. now all gone....supposed to be progress Hmmm!!

Do check the sump bolts are nipped , its only 5lbft max it may need a light nip, the care is needed on the bridges over the mains being alloy , can have too longer bolts in which bottom out and strip you can only use the club silicone rocker gaskets on alloy covers wont fit a tin cover you can get the sump off if needed , lift the engine a bit and faff around till it drops off , rack off may help, theres the chassis you cant shift can be easy or frustrating snap aidan pete

Dave, do Take care when changing the needles pete

If the needles flutter you need to restrict the pipe to dampen intake pulses its standard practise when these cars were built all settings were simple mechanical equalities, no faffing around with the myths and meaningless twiddlings set the throttle plates equal and similar mixtures and you get whats needed The gauge doug linked is one of the easiest, providing you dont block the atomspheric port with the rubber pad if I ever need a vac gauge I have the nice brass 6"we used in our emmisions dept. Then you can spot small changes , but shes covered in dust.

Also thermost must have the air bleed jiggle pin fitted or a small hole drilled in the rim to let air locks out when filling get the front of the car up high can help make sure heater valve is open when filling always do a slow fill with the engine running and dont fill to the brim and leave cap off till youre happy .

Was that short trousers!!!

You will probably need to remove the manifold now to get decent access , the brass units are well made, had to change one on my 2000 when we got her , well corroded stubs and the banjo bolt unscrewed with the fingers...very abnormal Be prepared for a bit of struggle pete

If the throttles return ok and pedal is not too light dont over spring or this just wears out the spindles and bodies. as for where to attach the long link.. anything convenient, a long wire to the boot latch is being extreme Ha