Pete Lewis

There are some better makes of chain ,english or german seem favoured the tensioner groves is normal, any replacement will end up the same silliest job is getting the small slpit pin replaced and to fit a new chain you need a acurate way of determining crank and cam lobe tdc point a simple piston stop on the block , turn piston to it in both directions and with a simple protractor (Card disc ) mark the two points , halve this for exact tdc of the piston you really need a dial indicator to do similar on the cam, turn a lobe to a decided lift on the dti do this both sides of the lobe again simple card disc attatched mark the same rise and fall points mark halves between the marks that the tdc of the cam lobe dont turn anything ang assy the chain and sprocket, the sprocket has off set holes that give 1/4 tooth increments buy switching holes and turning it over this all sounds a pain but read the manuals and practice its the best way of getting the cam timing really spot on pete

i can only add if you have droop problems youre on the wrong forum again . the guy who invented Millboard should be sent on a long trip to timbuktu theres a joke around Pete

if the bushes are within spec i would leave alone.. new followers and follower grease to bed them in , cant advise on material or follower spec Pete

yes it collects vacuum from a small orifice just past the throttle plate this generates the vacuum to advance the base plate by the diaphragm capsule and advances the timing when at low throttle openings ie cruising, has nothing to do with manifold vacuum . in fact its about completely the opposite the vac unit gives approx 4mpg help to fuel consumption,and has no effect on accelerations. get a better quality reinforced hose to fit over both spouts and dump the elbow idea , pipe diameter is not critical Pete

Some of the online suposed cheaper have a clause about thier tyres being pre 2012 and not date stamped its lost in the small print policies . if you dont do many miles and and dont need premium tyre performance many of the budget tyres will do all you need certainly if they age before you wear them out aging makes the rubber? hard and it has no grip , can be so hard they wont wear out here lies the danger then the steel bands can corrode internally and you dont know 7 years is the recomended max age you should consider

Or to add to Darrens idea get a screw in hose fitting and use fuel hose all the way to the carbs and bin the pipe idea, pete

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/brake-pipe-flaring-kit-10-pc-piece-tool-sealey-ak506-set-copper-brass-aluminium Need a special tool to grip the tube and a screw in mandril and former to get the tube end to do a single flare for a fuel type fitting or a double flare for a high pressure brake pipe Prices vary but rough search on halfords

and check the rear cam bearing bore these can wear and you get everlasting tappet noise which isnt tappets the dizzy pedestal is sealed with a gasket , there are various thickness to adjust the drive end float Pete

yes change all the core plugs, always been fit them dry they need to grip, if you use a sealer dont use a slippy silcone something like wellseal would be better smells nice too. the dizzy base has an 0 ring rocker paint, club sell rattle can of orig gold , but any colour , body colour , black , whatever takes your liking if the stud holes are dented/sunken knock it back with a hammer and drift same with the sump , always clout the holes back to remove deformed flanges .

some repro diaphragms are very stiff thick nasty rubbery things , should be quite flimsy and very flexible if they are orig, and swell when taken out a wash with petrol will revert them to size as for the smiths valve you can dummy a get you home from a poly bag to trial it starting depending what the original bang was maybe a compression test is worth considering Pete

just stripped some longer standing150s and the needles were seriously jammed in the jets with nasty corrosion never seen that before in all the years of carbs carb cleaner quite useless , had to use a plumbers sulphuric acid to get the goo out of the jet holders and float zone so old gum does exist pete

its seems its no8x32 unf Pete

You should only use ptfe tape around the olive and its pipe, make sure the pipe end is kept clear . the threads on the nut have nothing to do with the sealing, it just clamps the olive onto the pipe, the seal is the olive against the pump body so does the pipe protrude a little beyond the olive ? Is the olive distorted by overtightening over the years suprised a 13/60has an olive, as Colin suggests a flare pipe is more normal pete

Stuart, with a full strip down ( Grrr) with the trunnion off and clamped in a vice you should be able to replicate the slack on the upright and see clearly where its coming from the trunnion should be a nice fit not slack let me know if you want help Pete

the nuts should screw down to a shoulder on the shaft this controls the squash on the rubbers hold the square on the shaft to enable tighten down the nut ,, all it needs is a good hand spanner tighten up then add the lock nut there is no torque figure given in the wsm. Pete

Was the wobble from the thread clearance or the trunnion bushes or loose through bolts there is a designed clearance as it must have to be able to rotate I would not expect obvious slack , you are a extended distance away from the trunion Which magnifies clearances it doesnt sound too good, a good look look see might be advisable pete

tkc1155 std 1500 spitty unleaded insert head tkc 3239 is spitty low compresion for california with UL inserts guess this is been skimmed to make a 1155 ??? Pete

think youre about to find out, sorry never stripped one only fought to get them up or down if its vinyl hood its most likely shrunk and wont fit anymore, if you need a replacement the mohair are a more expensive but much longer lasting hood Pete

if the glass was inside the roof you cant open the doors clever anti theft of sorts and saves fuel as you cant get in Ha ! the roof gutters vary a lot from the various suppliers some have a good well defined stitched on gutter trim some have a appalling shallow and useless , have a look around at shows its a minefield of who's make is best the 'convertible' designs of the day were just a rain cover , not like a modern which guys expect to be water tight pete

sounds a good idea , dont know how those products stand up to a leaky tank drain plug or any fuel spill episodes.

Thank heavens for that pleased its running pete

Colin, his floggle toggle had fell of his whim wham Froc, do check the base clamp may be different diameter to clamp the body there's two sizes of clamp so it could be too small or too big and if supplied with one theres changes /evolution how the clamp is bolted to the pedestal just to make something simple a nightmare

ouch !! unusual for a lucas, delco are good are wearing out most lucas can be rebuilt DIY try the distributor doctor for spares Pete

just cake ??? whats am /lw was that for mrs dales diary and the archers

Drive gear end float can make a lot of tappety noise if its excessive, there must be some float or you sieze it theres worn dizzy spindle bushes and shaft wear due to lack of oiling does the rotor shaft wag around use a long screwdriver against the block and dizzy post and stick ear on the handle it will shownwhere the noise is eminating, dont get it in the fan , Or the HT leads one more excessive idea is the tail camshaft bearings can wear, this makes a tappet noise you cant trace,, quite common pete