Pete Lewis

Just to be clear on what you are saying the clutch gives no drive with engine is running yes you have managed to select a gear yes foot off the pedal yes You get no drive to the wheels yes or you cant engage any gear with engine idleing there is no resisitance when you press the pedal

Typical of hunter / avenger automatics with cable on a cam to enhance opening progression pete

do i get a badge or house point where's them slippers , its pouring again and we should be at Revs and Rythms having a bop or whatever with a curry or F &C but its not looking good right now wet grass , wet shoes , wheres the tractor ??? Pete

yes the spokes leave a squarish hole , the horn push is held on with 2 screws I had to drill the boss and re countersink the spokes as the holes were worn through years and i guess loose screws and the whole thing would creak and groan, looking at the prices should have taken it off when i sold her

good , thats another one running keep at it it does all come together .....one day edit senior moments prevail, youre on cdse so its up the needle not down the jet Ooops but its worked sorry for a bum steer Pete

sounds like its far too lean ,, wind the jet down alt least two full turns from level with the top of the holder

most things on a triumph are intermittent Ha ! I much prefer the column stalk and expect to convert the T2000 soon, the is it in or out of the gear knob switch is no good for senior decisions . pete

There is a switch in the end of the solenoid, if the contacts are corroded its not going to hold in, some switches are cleable some are sealed to remove the screw fit a short tube over the end of the driver to keep it on the screw head there, s an article looming soon where we made a long threaded studding to replace the bottom screw two locknuts to replicate the sol fixing and two 4" away to be visible beyond the end of the sol. if its a D type you must fit a relay the initial pull is over 10amps the holding coil takes 0.5amp switched over by the contacts in the end of the sol.

yes just a gentle jack under the upright will work fine on a non rotaflex suspension changing the rubbers can be a challenge doubt the two rear ones need changing and getting the long thro bolt out can be amusing !! the big uns on the front mount , if the diff drops hangs low enough then yes if it fights you to a standstill no they wont and needs diff dropping out which means spring released while youre looking at the oil seal check the 4 bolts holding the front carrier these should be a wedgeloc bolt IE the shank is tapered shank as hole in brkt is bigger than the 3/8" thread https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-132856 if these come loose you lock the propshaft with a big ouch !!

paint acts as a lubricate , its not good on hard facings if it degrades through any shuffing you loose torque on the fixings ,,, but many do give it all a light spray ,,if you just cant resist !!! less of a problem on engine plates but certainly bad practice on hubs drums and discs., and uj couplings etc must be kept clean and bare metal Pete

its a smaller hub than the current makers , i had to redrill the 'spokes' and fit bigger counter sunk bolts in mine but the cars sold , so sorry nothing i can compare with now

agree fibre is the one to use

an interesting day, collected Doug and arrived at Jonathans around 1pm, so off with the rockers and set the tappets , off with the dizzy cap and plugs , dougs thumb over number 1 and get TDC and valves equal and closed , but yeHa the ht leads are 1 pot out carbs needed jet centering , and jet setting and a quick balance , choke cable is detached at knob end anyway with all the basics proven and 18month old fuel Va va Roooom shes a goer here comes the bacon sarnie much tlc needed to get her into shape but with a good running motor there's the inspiration t crack on had a nice run home with the Trusty Picasso throwing its toys out , the add blue tank is not venting and sucked the ruddy thing flat, on with the red warnings , dont stop it or you may not restart no mileage warning till halfway home , its showing 700m to not restarting so thats a better option than 'Im stopping call for help, because it doenst know how much blue is in the squashed up bottle .. Grrr spoilt a good day out should have used the T2000

Doug and myself will head for guildford today and wave some magic fingers at it thats 65 miles miles for me and 25 for Doug , must be daft Ha !, more news later today pete

Doug where would we be without poetic licence to widen the subject !!! your studs took 331 to move them Heh ! all local stock long gone Pete

dont get the socket stuck !!! you can with a fiddle jack the tubes out with a large expanding rawl bolt never tried but have seen it done years ago. can also be used to lift followers if there's room to extract them . then fit new tubes only to find they still leak

has the looks of being run on poor oil at sometime in its life the dull light scored shell is not abnormal but the crank has suffered , needs a light grind if you are doing a decent rebuild its worth while Pete

reckon so,, mine are all battery ,, still make a clatter but much quieter and powerfull than diy air impacts mostof which are restricted by small bore hoses. then need a good supply to work at optimum battery ons can be costly but go anywhwere my Mac 1/2 drive does 330 lbft if needed just got a second 3/8 drive lithium powered from a sale in Homebase ...£18 a real bargain should have bought the stock and sold at the pub meets ...

if you look down the drivers O/S back of the engine , see the clutch housing towards the gearbox there is a hole, often covered in old oily dust its a hole about 8mm dia , if a thin screwdriver drops in its missing if it stops a few mm in the hole its OK in the hole should be a pin which goes right through the withdrawal lever . its held in place by a crinkle bush called a tolereance ring these break up and the pin has no head on it so as you use the clutch it falls out on the road generally followed by a hard pedal and no clutch operation and to be corrective the slave is the cylinder that pushes the clutch withdrawl mechanism attached to the gearbox or hsg. a master cylinder is the one on the baulkhead and is the primary unit depressed by the pedals

yes you need to remove the pin easier said than done

Panel illumination needs an earthed body the charge light must not have this pete

Just a thought reading again, engine running , you can engage gears , but no drive that sound's more like the slave is siezed, keeping the clutch disengaged regardless of pedal action. If you cant engage gears with engine running then its bleed or other hydraulic failure enven the dreaded withdrawl pivot pin has dropped out

You can bleed it from under the car you may need to lift it safely to get under , two wheels up a kerb may work if you have no controlable drive if this is not possible then its time to take the gearbox tunnel, cover out and bleed from inside the car the clutch slave is fitted into a clamp bracket on the clutch housing along side the gearbox approx behind the starter motor you will see the metal pipe feeding it. the bleed screw should be above the pipe fitting screwed into the end of the cylinder undo it a half turn and get the pedal pressed to expell any air, a short tube on the nipple into a jam jar or bottlle to catch the fluid use a dot4 fluid .

Ha !

all the diagrams i can see show its a two wire holder ( not an earthed case) one to the white on the ign switch and the other is earthed via the alternator or dynamo control box WL wire brown and yellow you dont want a holder that has an earthed case unless its insulated from wherever it is located or you get a short or bulb on constant Pete