Pete Lewis

In 66 I bought a 59 948 rotten to the core , rotten body mounts and no side rails left, holes in floor etc. 7 year old rot box. For £120 the gaffer tape over the back bumper on this reminds me of it,

Prefer the tambourine man

these may be good for track use but never see how road dirt is kept away from the sphericals for daily driving and trunions have lasted all these years , if the upright is sound a new brass unit is a cheap repair at £18 compared to rose jointed at £334 how many miles per year do you anticipate to offset the cost ??? Pete

the WSM says on each seat there is no static heights given just weights just lucky its not a bus !!! on Commer vans there was a set height you put blocks in and loaded till it bottomed on the blocks , then forgot to take them out and lost them on road test and had to go and retrieve the blasted things from the Wipsnade test route we made a sign up for the dash it just said ' BLOCKS' pete

old fuel, seized air piston, stuck blocked float needle, seized points , choke not working, coil failed, wrong chocolate egg for the boss whisky has got fly in it ... the lists as long as the start from basics ...thats a good plan Pete

so I'm younger than i thought i was ??

its got your name on it !!! has thread drift got something to do with senility ?????or its a Triumph thingy Pete

probably still last longer than the cheap rubbish available,, thats why poly is getting more loved , makes you wonder why after all , modern cars have engine mounts that dont seperate in 12months so someone makes things to a specification until it has 'classic must be cheap' on the box or here comes a sucker lets make him pay for rubbish so go poly ....'who's a pretty boy ' a friend went out to our parrots and the old Grey told her to F O in my voice never did it again Pete

my mum had library books in big print , she stopped reading them when she passed on to the happy hunting grounds. at 96 so theres plenty of time yet Pete

Good to see the through studs are sound ive come across some terrible thin corroded ones over the years lts looking good , when complete will be a complement to you wire brush and painting comitment good stuff, keep at it , im sure we all enjoy your progress pete

I only take pills on mondays to avoid thread drift on tunnels foam and rubber just to make sure they get me in wonkie mode on the old forum had the red leather club now we progress to the old wonkie club Ha ! but thats better than slippers and pom poms ....with zips or velcro grrr. pete

Imtakemtablesnformit and thisnsillty tablet keeps typing letters for spaces nowhere near the n or m or b on the base line but they keepnpoppingmup when you dontnneedbtem so need to move the space bar somehow more pills please pete chief wonkie

The tube is clamped tight when the bolt is secured, the bushes rotate around the tube , or if poly just move on their elasticity Nothing to stop you adding a smear on the tube but it wont do much the plastic bush fit will wipe most off when you insert the tube you can grease the bolt just to stop it rusting and seizing inside the tube dont forget to fit the dust seal tin discs before you push the bushes in and if it was poly use the paste in the kit to aid assembly pete pete

i used 18 mm square foam glued to the cover that takes up all the wonky gaps, never found the OE type seal to be very effective, good when all is new and straight but hopeless on 50 yr old wonkies Pete

use top clamp plate as a jig, drill 2 new holes with 8.3mm drill about 3/4" deep tap them 3/8 x 24unf and jobs done, space the plate higher then there is more vertical control of your free hand drilling the diff you have had a swing spring box which only has 4 studs , I did this on my Vitesse with a battery drill ,, check the depths of the old 4 holes im sure they dont go through to the diff, so drilling doesnt put any swarf in the carrier , well my 2 holes didnt some would say 4 studs is sufficient but on a fixed spring there is more roll forces to contain. so 6 is safest.

Yes se also http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/2009-toe-in-the-easy-way/?hl=simple but needs 150lbs on each seat to set the static ride height then straight plank across the both tyre and tape measure in front and behind tyre you want 0 -3mm toe in max no toe out simple check to see if you are parallel to the centre is again long timber against rear tyre(always above the bulge) and sight the length down the side , compare the run to the sill line each side should be equal Not // but l l pete

With all the work have you reset the rear toe in ????

thats because the nuts were a bit loose !!!

on bus chassis testing we had wooden seats ,, sharp braking .....gave splinters in the rump Pete

I guessed it would be my fault...does the box work ok ??? had a test drive yet Pete

many replace the long with two short Pete

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No special unless its a rotaflex which may need a spring lifter . the long bolt across the back can be a tight removal. may need the exhaust moving to clear the diff front support frame to pass down. support the chassis safely , undo the spring top plate, and the drive shaft and propshaft pry the drive shafts away from the couplings remove the rear long bolt, support the weight on a jack remove the front two mounting nuts and lower the unit , its quite heavy.

This is where the Com and classic clubs need to keep up representations to the underwriters, or classic ownership and car clubs will disappear as the youngsters drop off the hozizon and us older or senior fall by the wayside so owners and cars become things of the past , with no new blood are we Doomed. pete

ep 90 GL4 is recomended , ( could go to EP140 in a trunion) more modern GL5 only eats bronze.brass,copper metals when in hot arduous conditions, like gearbox and especially Diffs it wont affect trunions , but then if you only buy GL4 youre safe where ever you use it,,